shasdakota Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 hi there guys, i got another project on my hands and could use your help. i got a damaged front rotor, so i went and bought 2 new front rotors to replace it with. i checked my Hayne's manual on the procedure, and i have a couple questions. i understand how to remove the brake caliper, but then it asks me to remove the hub dust cap, cotter pin, adjusting cap, wheel bearing nut and washer, but it doesnt supply any pictures. i tried pulling up the Nissan parts schematic, and i dont even see these parts listed... and then for installation it says refer to chapter 11 for repacking the wheel bearings and installing the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. but when i go to chapter 11, i cant find any information on this subject... So if anyone can help me with this, i'd really appreciate it. I tried searching on-line, but all i found was info for the R50 and Xterra. i found some great info on how to repack the wheel bearings, but i'm at a loss for the rest of it. on the xterra rotor install i was reading they said they had to replace the outter grease seal on the front hub. it doesnt say anything about this in my manual though. does anyone know if i need to replace these seals also? i found the part #'s i need, and it's compatable with the pathfinder and they arent very expensive. thanks again guys on helping me with my never ending list of tasks i need to perform on my Terrano! on a side note, i have finished up writing my body lift install directions and sorted out my pictures. all i need to do is type it all down here for everyone else. stay tuned... josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 there's a topic on cv shaft replacement that has pictures of hub dis-assembly and such. I think its in the how-to's, but may be wrong..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 (edited) i did search dude. on here and google. and i looked manually for your CV shaft replacement thread, i cant see it. and it wouldnt have come up if i was searching for rotors install anyways... i hate redundant q's as much as the next guy, but the "go search" is just as annoying. i found out i need to replace my seals, but i'm at a loss for the rest. if anyone has a link to this info, please let me know... EDIT- i see threads about CV shafts, but none have the pics i need... Edited August 12, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28120 Here's the link of cv shaft install they were talking about. But for the info your asking unlike most vehicles where you just remove the caliper swap rotors and have a beer pathfinder are more fun. you will need to remove the whole front hub assembly in order to replace the rotor its not as bad as it sounds but will take some time. To start remove the hub cap where its auto or manual hubs, then remove the C clip holding the cv shaft in place, after the C clip is removed remove the remaining washer and clutch equipment depending on what you have. After that you will see 2 screws remove the 2 screw holding the bearings in place and gently slide the rotor and hub assembly off and unbolt the rotor and replace. Rinse and repeat for other side. I will add if you replacing the rotors now is a good time to also do your wheel bearing and seals but if there in could condition just remove them gently and reinstall. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 (edited) Since you have 4 wheel drive there is no dust cap or cotter pin. You have to remove the 4wd locking hub which is held on by 6 6mm allen bolts. Then there is a snap ring and some parts that slide on, make sure to install them in the right order. You have to remove the bearing lock nut plate (should be 2 philips screws) and then the locknut itself (if you don't have the proper tool you can use a hammer and a screwdriver to tap it loose {it shouldn't be that tight} and then the whole hub assembly will slide off. The inner bearing seal is on the side that sits against the CV axle (obviously) I use a screwdriver to pry mine out. Don't reuse them. I would recommend breaking the rotor bolts free before taking it off because it is much easier that way. The outer grease seal is the locknut and the 4wd hub. There is an O-ring on the hub, don't lose it! The tools you should need are: 12 14 17 and 19mm sockets 6mm Allen socket or Allen key Hammer and screwdriver or bearing locknut tool Edited August 13, 2011 by adamzan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 It can take some doing to get the rotor off the hub assembly too, might need to use a hammer etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) thanks for all the replies guys... i decided to just go at it, and i got everything done. it was easier than the manual made it sound... wd21overland- thanks for the link! that would have been really helpful! old slow- one of the reason's i decided to just go at it was because i realized if internet thread responses are getting to me, i need to spend less time on the computer... i understand you were trying to help, and you did, it got me looking in the right direction, even if i didnt find it myself. it was a great thread with pics, just what i would have needed. i've been doing a lot of research here, and it seems in so many threads somebody has to say "go search", and i just dont get why people always have to add that. we all know the search function is hit or miss. and i thought my first post made it clear that i had done some research before posting. i always do. but sometimes i will make a mistake and ask a question that has been answered. i'm sure everyone here has done so at one time or another... Edited August 18, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Get yourself a copy of the FSM for a 94 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/ There isn't a digital copy for a 91 but I'm sure most of the truck is the same. Then put that haynes manual in the bathroom and use the pages to wipe with. It will be more use to you that way than as a manual. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hey now, it is good to have a Haynes manual around as well as a Chiltons simply so you have something to throw other than the laptop in the garage, which can get expensive. Seriously though, I find that the C&H manuals are good for quick reference, torque specs, etc and sometimes the pictures/diagrams. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 (edited) ahhh, should have known to find a factory service manual... their really that much better, huh? the more i been using my Haynes the more frustrated i been getting. theres not enough info and tons of misprints. i ended up finding the rotor install info i needed. it was in my Haynes, just not in the chapter they referenced... and i found info for packing the wheel bearings in a different place than they had pointed to also... good info, thanks guys. what i really need is a Terrano FSM... but i really dont think it exists. there's quite a bit of differences between the Pathy and Terrano. but i'll download the '94 FSM since its free, and see if that helps me any. thanks for teh link rich... EDIT- just downloaded the FSM and its WAY better than the Haynes from the little i looked over. MUCH more detailed. and the '94 seems to match my '91 truck for the parts of my truck that match the Pathy. (not surprisingly) If anyone ever see's the Terrano I FSM for download or for sale, please pass it along... Edited August 20, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 My bad...I shoulda taken pictures this past weekend I did bearings and rotors on the gfs truck...but I was walking my gf thru the process and forgot the camera...I cut up a 4 stud tool for the spindle lock nut and a $5 spring fish scale from Walmart Halfway point Tookavout 3hrs total with a parts store run and bsing with my buddy while drinking a 6'er but this is the 3rd or 4th time I've done this... One thing I also do is leave the caliper on both sides and slide the seat forward and put a prybar on the pedal jammed into the seat if no1 is around to hold the brake pedal and break the hub bolts loose prior to removing the calipers...then I remove the hub to keep as much dirt out as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Also reccomend a grease gun and the $6 bearing packer cones...still kinda messy but not as bad as hand packing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 When it comes to packing bearings you cant beat this tool Lisle Handy Packer It's not messy like the cones. You leave it filled with grease so it's always ready to go, it has a dust cover to save it with so crap doesn't get in it. I've owned one since 1990 and used it alot back in the day and never had a problem with it. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate94XE4x2 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Anyone have any pointers specifically for a 2WD on this topic? According to the shop manual, the front hub nut isn't on that tight but there's no mention as to what size the thing is, only to use special tool so-and-so or equivalent. I'm trying to figure out what I'll need before I take anything apart only to find I have to put it back together to go get a tool. Thanks! Nate '94 XE 2WD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Go to the Garage section. There is a pinned thread on the Factory Service Manuals and where to download them. It obviously covers the 2wd versions and will have an exploded view, torque settings, etc... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate94XE4x2 Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Thanks for the reply, but that tells me nothing. As I mentioned, I did reference the shop manual/FSM. A direct quote from the FSM, the FA section, page 25: "Remove wheel bearing lock nut... 2WD Trucks: With suitable tool." An illustration shows "KV40105400 (J36001) or suitable tool". Not helpful. I'm hoping someone has experience with it and can tell me, "Yeah, a 46mm axle socket will work fine" or "Just use 2 chopsticks, it'll spin right out". Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Thanks for the reply, but that tells me nothing. As I mentioned, I did reference the shop manual/FSM. A direct quote from the FSM, the FA section, page 25: "Remove wheel bearing lock nut... 2WD Trucks: With suitable tool." An illustration shows "KV40105400 (J36001) or suitable tool". Not helpful. I'm hoping someone has experience with it and can tell me, "Yeah, a 46mm axle socket will work fine" or "Just use 2 chopsticks, it'll spin right out". Anyone? I use an adjustable wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Thanks for the reply, but that tells me nothing. As I mentioned, I did reference the shop manual/FSM. A direct quote from the FSM, the FA section, page 25: "Remove wheel bearing lock nut... 2WD Trucks: With suitable tool." An illustration shows "KV40105400 (J36001) or suitable tool". Not helpful. I'm hoping someone has experience with it and can tell me, "Yeah, a 46mm axle socket will work fine" or "Just use 2 chopsticks, it'll spin right out". Anyone? Sorry, shop manual did not register as FSM. Ok, do this: compare it to the 4wd system exploded view. Is the lock nut the same with the two spanner holes in it? Is the tool number the same? If so, I just use a drift pin and a hammer to tap it loose/tight as it doesn't take much but some prefer to use a socket. If not, remove the dust cap (no auto hubs in the way, right?) and take a look? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) Know what I love about women.... They think they should do EVERYTHING in flip flops. Sorry man but pictures like these are what I collect for ammo when the critics say women are smarter than men. Edited February 28, 2012 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Its all good...she had to take care of the baby and I was getting too far ahead and instead of changing (those were good clothes before the end of this) she got her side done without getting hurt so I can't complain...I'm the one that leaks all over everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate94XE4x2 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Sorry, shop manual did not register as FSM. Ok, do this: compare it to the 4wd system exploded view. Is the lock nut the same with the two spanner holes in it? Is the tool number the same? If so, I just use a drift pin and a hammer to tap it loose/tight as it doesn't take much but some prefer to use a socket. If not, remove the dust cap (no auto hubs in the way, right?) and take a look? B The deed is done, the rotors changed. The Pathfinder is definitely a different beast than what I've ever taken apart before... cars with 150-250ft-lbs of torque on a 32-46mm castle nut. Drift pin worked great on one and the other was so loose it was already wiggling when I unscrewed the lock washer. Those screw-on lock washers didn't come through for me on the FSM diagram, those are slick! And that is one hell of a beefy spindle, again compared to the Toyotas, Hondas and other assorted CARS I've had apart. Annoying to have to remove the whole hub for a brake rotor, but you can't win them all, I guess. Thanks! Nate B P.S. Ended up making a "socket" by taking a Dremel to a cheap hole saw, which enabled me to put a torque wrench to it in order to get my 30ft-lbs of torque on it without having to guess. Edited March 6, 2012 by Nate94XE4x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Glad it worked out. I don't mind that you have to remove the hub, as it kinda makes you repack the bearings at the same time, they will last forever with proper maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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