andrewcconti Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I have put almost 1500 miles on my new to me 1988 Pathfinder a large part in thanks to all of the helpful answers people in this forum have helped me with. My latest issue is every time we get a heavy overnight rain the Pathfinder refuses to start. If I let it sit in the sun and dry out it starts right up. Any leads as to what I could/should check to solve this problem? I bought the Pathfinder as my "winter beater" and will need to resolve the wet start issue before the snow falls. Thanks in advance! Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Check for spark, check for fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) Check your distributor cap and wires. Had this problem on an old mazda and when it was wet out the wires would arc out to ground. Edited June 19, 2011 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehuntersam Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I have heard of this problem before and it was on another site, I think it was nissanoffroad.org I can't remember what they did to solve it though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 here's a hint "condensation" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 In all probability it is either your cap has a crack or your spark plugs are old and will take on moisture. Either one can cause problems. If you have not done a tune-up since getting the truck I recommend cap/rotor/wires (and plugs too if you can) along with a new air filter for good measure. I suspect that would fix the problem. There could be other possibilities but a tune up is good insurance anyway. G/L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks to all who replied. I replaced the cap yesterday. Fingers crossed this solves the wet start issued. Oddly Now my brake and battery lights are both coming on? I start the car they stay on and as I get to highway speeds they both go out? Another puzzle for me to solve... I hope to get this rig semi reliable for my 800 miles once a month winter commute from MA to PA this winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 master cylinder res float switch is sticking and lets loose after some heat soaks in check you booster line as well there is a one way check valve make sure it is working correctly blow through it one way ( toward the booster) and nothing the other way(toward the engine). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks to all who replied. I replaced the cap yesterday. Fingers crossed this solves the wet start issued. Oddly Now my brake and battery lights are both coming on? I start the car they stay on and as I get to highway speeds they both go out? Another puzzle for me to solve... I hope to get this rig semi reliable for my 800 miles once a month winter commute from MA to PA this winter. Sounds more like an alternator issue to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Ok wet start issue fixed! Thanks to all. BUT... I am still having a weird dash brake light and battery light on issue. When I start the car it starts right up, and both lights glow very dimly. Once up and on the road both lights go out. I checked battery connections, belts, brake fluid level. Everything looks great to my eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Check your voltage at the battery at idle. Brake and battery lights are typically symptoms of bad alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Check your voltage at the battery at idle. Brake and battery lights are typically symptoms of bad alternator. 100% correct! My newly replaced (rebuilt) alternator crapped out in the high speed lane on my way home from work... 45 mins later the AAA flatbed brought the pathy to the garage who replaced the alternator. I guess I got a poorly rebuilt alternator... DAMN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 New parts fail just like old parts. As you found out, brake and battery light are tell-tale signs of a failing alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rebuilt alternators suck, I put one on my truck, a year and a month later it crapped out with no warning. The replacement (warranty) whined and made my truck sound like @!*% so I went and bought a brand new one and now all is silent and charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Now you know in future the indication of an alternator going out on your dash lights. Its good you have all summer to work out any little kinks and quirks before winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rebuilt alternators suck, I put one on my truck, a year and a month later it crapped out with no warning. The replacement (warranty) whined and made my truck sound like @!*% so I went and bought a brand new one and now all is silent and charging. More than likely the manufacturing facility that did the rebuild is to blame. There are a lot of good companies that do quality rebuilds and some really shoddy ones. I haven't had an issue with NAPA's rebuilt starters or alternators, but Schucks and Costless on the other hand... their rebuilt sheit fails constantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 More than likely the manufacturing facility that did the rebuild is to blame. There are a lot of good companies that do quality rebuilds and some really shoddy ones. I haven't had an issue with NAPA's rebuilt starters or alternators, but Schucks and Costless on the other hand... their rebuilt sheit fails constantly. I have to agree with kingman on rebuilds Napa seems to be the store to pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Most rebuilders are not liek they used to be back in the day, more and more rebuilders are simply replacing the failed component on a starter/distributor/alternator and then cleaning the remaining components. some are not even using quality components when they replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Update from the garage who did the initial alternator replacement. He tells me he can not be sure the alternator is bad because he can not start the car... He fully charged the battery, turned the key, nothing no turn over, no click no nothing....He tried to push start it and it would not roll start. He is telling me their is a bigger electrical problem and he highly doubts it is the alternator... UGH!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 You'd think the garage should be able to troubleshoot a starting problem fairly easily... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 You'd think the garage should be able to troubleshoot a starting problem fairly easily... I agree... I am wondering why this is so difficult for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewcconti Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 UPDATE....So I stopped by the garage (Meneike) who has done all of the work to date on my new to me Pathfinder. They replaced the alternator about 3.5 weeks ago. After about 2.5 wks the brake light on the dash along with the battery light on the dash would glow dimly when the truck was running and both would eventually go out a higher RPM's. Last week on my way home from work the truck completely died on the highway. I had it towed back to Menekie and they told me they could not get it to turn over, push start, nothing... they told me they do not think it is the alternator. So back to today... I stop by the garage to pick up the set of car keys I left in the ashtray. The owner of the shop tells me it is time for me to call AAA and have the truck brought to his "electronics expert"... I am at my wits end at this point with the truck. So I call his "expert" and he tells me he can not accept the truck at his garage for at least 1 week maybe 2. UGHHHHHH! Alright I ask the shop owner and he tells me the truck can stay on his lot for a week or two more. I tell him I need to get a set of keys out of the ashtray. He hands me the keys to the truck and I get my keys out of the ashtray. I figure what the hell I will see if I can get it to start. SURE ENOUGH it starts RIGHT UP! I call him over to hear the truck running and he says wow "how did you do that?" Uhhhh I turned the key clockwise while it was the ignition, clutch pushed in.... So I drive the truck home and the battery light is still dimly light when the truck is running. ANy thoughts? I am very paranoid to take the Pathfinder any distance for fear of being stranded again. I need to get this worked out before the winter. Thanks in advance! andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 So there is a bunch of stuff going on here... and you need to break it down (even though it could be related in the end). So, right now your truck starts. Good. Your problem is the batt light on. Sounds like an alternator problem. So, maybe start by measuring battery voltage. Measure it when your truck is off, then measure it when your truck is running with the alternator charging it etc. Since this seems a bit hard to track down I might take the alternator to get bench tested somewhere too, probably you might even get this done for free. See what your results are from this and then go from there. If your truck won't even start then that's something else (could be related, but it isn't exactly the same thing), and then you deal with that when it happens... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Get rid of Meineke. They're a bunch of asshats that usually don't know what they're doing and charge way too much. Seriously. I would go through and check every single ground. The battery light being on either indicates that the alternator isn't charging (due to an internal fault or loose belt), or there is a loose wire somewhere and it's tripping the light. However, saying that the lights come on at lower RPMs then turns off at higher RPMs makes me lean towards a loose belt or a faulty from the box alternator. Bad connection, maybe. Definitely check. Also check the connections at the battery. Sometimes the joints in the bundle of wires coming of the positive side of the battery can get weak from all the vibrations/bending/twisting of the engine. At the moment I don't remember which wires trigger the dash lights. Being as you started the truck right up at the shop that means the battery wasn't dead. Unless they did charge it, in which case you need to specify. What was the voltage reading on the dash when the truck died on the highway? Normal? Were there any lights on? Did you lose ALL power? Windows, heater, blinkers, etc? Or just starter power? Big difference. Oh and insert foot in mouth. My NAPA alternator just started failing the other day. It's whining loudly and not wanting to charge at idle or provide amperage under load. LOL! Edited June 29, 2011 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Get rid of Meineke. They're a bunch of asshats that usually don't know what they're doing and charge way too much. Seriously. Ditto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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