To sell or not to sell...

[dkpath96]

Well, my '96 pathfinder didn't pass inspection - again - thanks to leaking inner and outer CV boots, two rusted out body mounts by the passenger doors, and rusty brake lines. The estimate is around $800 to get it up to specs.

 

It has 187,000 miles, two dented doors, and numerous rust spots on the fenders, bumpers, rocker panels, etc. but dang it, still runs like a champ. I just don't think I want to put that kind of money into it any more just to pass PA inspection.

 

Some choices I have come up with:

 

1. Sell it as-is to someone who wants to work on it;

 

2. Use it as a trade-in (my wife wants to upgrade her '05 Escape)

 

3. Scrap it to the local parts yard.

 

 

Where do you think I'd get the most out of the vehicle?

[nunya]

rust holes in the body are mechanics discretion in PA (depending on the severity and location obviously), what do you mean by the body mounts? r50 is a unibody... got pics of the failed rust? Depending on where/how it could be a simple 'fill the hole with something' to make it PA legal and are the boots actually throwing greese and the cv joints clicking when on a normal road test? a 'ripped' boot still technically passes but is 'suggested' to be replaced as long as it aint actually launching lube everywhere and clacking all over the place. Plus you can get CV axles on rockauto.com right now for 45.79 a piece +shipping before entering the 5% discount code found in the vendors section here if they are truely scrap and there are write-ups somewhere to DIY change them...

 

Scrap yards are only gonna give you 2-3 hundred odds are (high 3's maby at a specialty foreign place), crusher by weight might warrent you a little more as scale prices are ~$10-$10.5 per 100lb right now (least in this corner of PA)

[devonianwalk]

Dear lord man, If you scrap her, offer up some parts to the gang around here. You can make a little more dough and help your Pathy brothers and sisters out.

[esy]

you'll get more money from selling it as-is or even as a trade-in. you won't much for scrap. if the body or interior isn't in great condition, the only thing worthwhile may be the engine, tires and/or wheels. not a whole lot else. electronics and little pieces here and there, but no where near as much as an outright sell would get you. i've never done the crushed metal so i don't know much about that.

 

i'd look into what it may run you if you did some of that work yourself.

[dkpath96]

what do you mean by the body mounts? r50 is a unibody... got pics of the failed rust?

 

Here is the part (photo from a newer pathfinder, not mine) that has completely rusted away on my '96, and what my mechanic referred to as a body mount.

 

Edited June 14, 2011 by dkpath96

[sewebster]

Here is the part that has completely rusted away on my '96, and what my mechanic referred to as a body mount. (if the picture link works...)

 

I'm not all that familiar with the R50, but I barely see any rust in that pic! You should take a look under my truck (or car...)...

Edited June 13, 2011 by sewebster

[nunya]

Not to sound like B but it aint the clearest pic, but that looks pretty clean for a PA r50 honestly

I'm guessing red to be the rust which looks (as far as I can tell) to be a simple patch, the blue is the t-hook tie down point (for Flatbed tie town purposes) and all the suspension and whatnot is behind THAT point. I would patch it togher and keep enjoyin my truck I already know from bumper to bumper

Edit: i dont know where my color circles i drew went

[BoneZ]

Not to sound like B but it aint the clearest pic, but that looks pretty clean for a PA r50 honestly

I'm guessing red to be the rust which looks (as far as I can tell) to be a simple patch, the blue is the t-hook tie down point (for Flatbed tie town purposes) and all the suspension and whatnot is behind THAT point. I would patch it togher and keep enjoyin my truck I already know from bumper to bumper

 

I have to say I agree with nunya that dose not look like much to fix to me. Looks like 10 dollars at the scrap steel yard and 15 min with a welder and good to go. If that is the only real problem and they are asking for that much money find a local that has a welder and bring him it prepped and a case of beer and ask nicely and you are probably good.

[MrT]

Take it to a different shop... (You know, one that looks shaby and has some old dude at the counter) That rust isn't that bad at all. Fix the brake lines for piece of mind a long with the CV. For what you'll put into it to fix it you can't even touch something as reliable if it truly does "run like a champ."

Edited June 14, 2011 by MrT

[dkpath96]

Sorry if I was not clear in my original photo post. That is from a newer pathfinder. The part I boxed in this photo is rusted completely away on mine. I'll get a pic of it up here soon, too.

 

 

Here is the actual area on my vehicle:

 

Edited June 15, 2011 by dkpath96

[nissaneric]

looks like yours is getting crusty for sure. how is the rear frame around where the swaybar mounts are?

[nunya]

Still don't look like anything some tin and a welder couldn't fix honestly, heck theres proably a pre-formed piece made somewhere you can just get burnt in.

[nissaneric]

good point..

http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/bodyfrontroof-floor/750-member/-c-4700_4701_4825_4848.html

thats the parts diagram. I think they call it an outrigger. its REALLY expensive at $38...

http://www.courtesyparts.com/74800aa-outrigger-1st-pathfinder-r50-1996-2004-p-206009.html

[dkpath96]

Thanks guys, that's some great information. It doesn't seem like a really important structural piece, so I wonder what the big deal is?

[nunya]

Nit picky inspection tech who wants to either retire off 1 job or just plain don't want to deal with it

[dkpath96]

looks like yours is getting crusty for sure. how is the rear frame around where the swaybar mounts are?

As far as I can see, the frame is in good shape everywhere else - just surface rust, a little flaking here and there, no soft spots.

 

These two outriggers were plugged with mud and dirt; this is probably why they rotted out. I'm going to put some time into repairs - they don't seem that expensive to me now that I know what they are. The hardest thing will be brake lines, but since this is essentially my back-up vehicle, it will be a great learning experience.

 

Thanks for the help, all!