fishodeath Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 So my pathy suddenly got louder the other day and after checking it out, I found the cause: I could feel the exhaust coming out of this connection while the car was running. Another pic to help orient this piece: And finally another angle: So my question is what should I do? I tried looking up a replacement part, and I can't seem to figure out which parts I would need to get... Is is bad to drive like this? Sorry for the newb questions, I'm still learning (I'm proud to have found the leaking part at all ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Looks like you need a new Y pipe. Also might have to replace that midpipe too depending on flange condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishodeath Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 Ah somehow that really helped. So I'll need Y-pipe, possibly midpipe and all the gaskets for those connections right? The drawing from the FSM was confusing me, I couldn't tell what was going on, but having the name helped me find it on rockauto. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 You need a welder... Problem solved! Joking aside that would be my personal remedy, weld it up and if it ever needs to come apart, torches exist for a reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 lol you don't want to know what i came up with... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnailPowered Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 I vote a set of headers! That's what I did because my cross-over (or possibly midpipe) pipe is cracked entirely in two. Of course a set of Pacesetter headers is over $300 and Thorleys are over $400, if you can find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishodeath Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks for the ideas guys! I have a friend who is a welder, I could probably have him tack something in place as a temp solution. I'm missing my tail pipe right now and I've got the "broken stud" tick. I want to try and replace most everything manifold back, but I don't have a garage or all the tools so prolly won't happen anytime soon. What were you gonna say Tungsten? Got me all curious now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks for the ideas guys! I have a friend who is a welder, I could probably have him tack something in place as a temp solution. I'm missing my tail pipe right now and I've got the "broken stud" tick. I want to try and replace most everything manifold back, but I don't have a garage or all the tools so prolly won't happen anytime soon. What were you gonna say Tungsten? Got me all curious now... I did a set of thorleys and a custom midpipe. Thorleys did in my driveway in the rain under a tarp. (no I wasn't barefoot nor was there a midget with a chicken ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Thorleys and a 2.5" midpipe here, all in 304 stainless steel. I home made my entire exhaust system except for the headers. It's still a work in progress but will be finished soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchdiggerjcf Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Thorleys and a 2.5" midpipe here, all in 304 stainless steel. I home made my entire exhaust system except for the headers. It's still a work in progress but will be finished soon. anybody have problems with the header gaskets? I've heard horror stories and it is making me think twice about headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 i used the gaskets included with thorley headers and they have yet to leak. It's been about 6 years since I installed them... maybe a bit longer O.P. do get your exhaust fixed as soon as you can, especially if you live somewhere in the rust belt. Leaking y-pipe flange will accelerate the corrosion of your driver's side floor boards and any other metal close to the leak, not to mention the dangerous exhaust fumes making their way in the cab via a cracked T-case shifter boot. Your leaky manifold means there are probably a couple studs that have broken. Replace the broken studs with 300zx TT studs. It's highly unlikely they will break again. If the manifold is warped, you may need to have it resurfaced before you replace a stud. It's a lot cheaper to do that than it is to buy and install headers unless you can't find a new y-pipe to replace yours with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishodeath Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the concern nige- I fixed it with some exhaust puddy and wrap shortly after my previous post... seems to be holding up (my friend with the welder is being lame). Only a temp fix, but at least I'm not spewing exhaust all under my rig now. I tried to pull a Y-pipe off a truck at the pick n pull, but I snapped my extension. I'll be going back for round two soon. Any advice on getting to the bolts that connect the manifold to the y-pipe? Edited June 14, 2011 by fishodeath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) the usual problem with exhaust bolts and nuts is over time they start to rust and the heads get smaller making it hard to get the correct size wrench or socket on the nut or bolt head. Sometimes if the head or nut is not too far rusted it is easier to try and tighten the fastener causing the bolt to break than it is to remove the nut from the bolt. Get yourself a big breaker bar and or a short piece of pipe and if you can fit it over the nut an impact socket, the impact socket is thicker and less likely to crack compared to a normal chrome socket, I bet the bolt will break easier than it would be to remove the nut. You could also, at the junkyard if you have access to one is use a cordless sawzall and just cut thru the bolt right where the gasket is. or ask someone to pull the "Y" pipe for you and ship it to you where are you located by the way? Just looked on rockauto.com, they seem to have the "Y" pipe for $34, if that is the pipe you need that would be the best option, I wouldn't even bother with trying to get a used part at that price. Edited June 15, 2011 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishodeath Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 Thanks for the advice ahardb0dy! Sawzall is a good idea, I didn't consider that option. I live in washington state. I did look at rockauto and I may just buy the new part, I was mainly using the junkyard to practice getting the parts off. I was also considering getting headers (so I'd want a larger pipe going back) but I think I'll skip that for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 For the price and ease of obtaining the replacement part and because the one on rockauto would be new, I would go with the new part over pulling a used part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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