schro Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Regarding the FS5R30A Aside from the repositioned oil fill hole in the post '96 case casting addressing the lubrication problem mentioned in the TSB on this transmission, does anyone know of any other changes that have been made to different model years of this transmission? Part of the reason for my asking is that I have been trying to find a rebuild kit for my '95 WD21 tranny. I have found a kit for this transmission, but the seller advertises it as being for '98 and later. Do the later models of this tranny address the weakness of 3rd. gear? (I plan on putting in a higher performance clutch for better towing capability) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 The raising of the fill hole position/capacity is the only change that I have heard of and I did not know of any weakness of 3rd gear. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schro Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 ... I did not know of any weakness of 3rd gear. B Quoted from a site selling custom transmission configurations... source: http://www.cpboost.com/Nissan-Skyline-300ZX-5MT-Dog-Engagement-FS5R30A-Cpcbgnissns300zx5mtdefs5r30a.htm "The Nissan FS5R30A transmission is fitted to a number of performance RWD and 4WD vehicles including the BNR32 and BCNR33 Skyline GTR and non-performance high torque applications in vehicles such as the Patrol/Safari and Pathfinder. A number of changes have been made throughout the transmission life by Nissan, mainly multiple revisions of the 4th gear synchronizer baulk ring and hub assembly to facilitate better shift feel and minimize grinding under fast shifts. Although the FS5R30A has a very high torque capacity, 3rd gear is the weakest link and tends to fail in vehicles with alot of horsepower and performance clutches." As this description would indicate I have a problem with a damaged 4th gear syncro that grinds unless I double-clutch. This is why I will be doing the rebuild. My concern is that I will be installing an aftermarket performance clutch and tow hitch, and I don't want to blow things up while towing a camping trailer up the Coquihalla Hwy. (it would be a long climb at high revs in 3rd gear). I am not doing any major mods to the engine so I likely will not have a problem due to excessive horsepower, but if later model-year versions of the rebuild kit are compatible and afford the benefit of overcoming some of the shortcomings of a '95 FS5R30A then I would like to use the later model revision rebuild kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Every now and then 4th grinds on me It usually happens when you just miss the point where it won't go down because your between gears. I found switching hand position lines up the gear smoother; Back hand facing left with thumb pointing down for up shifts and backhand facing right and thumb up for down shifts. I been pretty hard on 1st 2nd and 3rd and never had any issues; clutch dumps, massive engine braking, 4lo wheelies, jumping, yanking on crap etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schro Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 4th gear syncro grinds EVERY TIME, regardless of the driver, unless I double-clutch. This is why I will be doing the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I believe you're misunderstanding the information you have read. The problems with the 30A arise when you're running high horsepower/torque through it, as was stated. Our Pathfinders will never put down anywhere near the amount of power to cause any kind of damage, and towing won't harm it either. Failed transmissions you see are 99.9% of the time caused by people running GL-5 fluid which eats away at the materials inside. There are a lot of people running stock 30As and putting down 4-500HP in Z31s that have never had an issue. I do know of one car that was pushing close to 600HP when the transmission failed at almost 275K miles. My Pathfinder is at 203K and the transmission is butter, I've abused it the same as MY1PATH has. The difference is we are not running insane amounts of power to break anything. Red line dump a 500HP car and you're almost guaranteed to grenade something. The 30A in my Z31 grinds 2nd and 3rd when it's cold. I have yet to change the fluid, but I have no doubt it'll shift like silk when I do as it only has 120K miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 As this description would indicate I have a problem with a damaged 4th gear syncro that grinds unless I double-clutch. This is why I will be doing the rebuild. My concern is that I will be installing an aftermarket performance clutch and tow hitch, and I don't want to blow things up while towing a camping trailer up the Coquihalla Hwy. (it would be a long climb at high revs in 3rd gear). I am not doing any major mods to the engine so I likely will not have a problem due to excessive horsepower, but if later model-year versions of the rebuild kit are compatible and afford the benefit of overcoming some of the shortcomings of a '95 FS5R30A then I would like to use the later model revision rebuild kit. Ok, I understand and agree, thanks for the info. Generally these trannys are bulletproof in Pathys, I don't know many people who have had to open theirs up but while you are there, you might as well upgrade whatever is cost effective and sensible... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schro Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 I have not been able to find much online about people rebuilding their own trannys, in fact information is very thin. If I can bring myself to getting greasy fingers on my digital camera I will try to document my progress once I start and post my results and impressions. Unless anyone has any more information on this forum I will try calling a few transmission shops locally to see if I can find someone helpful enough to let me know about model year compatibility. Thanks for the replies that I've gotten so far. Hearing no bad news is almost as good as good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoDy Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 i found this Here is the Link a couple of months ago when I was going to change my tranny oil i had my doubt if it really had the 5.1L of oil in there hope it helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schro Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 i found this Here is the Link a couple of months ago when I was going to change my tranny oil i had my doubt if it really had the 5.1L of oil in there hope it helps Thanks RoDy, I have done most of the prep to remove the transmission. I have other jobs I'm doing at the same time (exhaust sytem rebuild - putting on headers, timing belt, etc. so I have done everything described in that post including removing the front diff and diff carrier. I have soaked all of the transmission mounting and carrier bolts in penetrating oil until tomorrow (weather permitting) and am ready to drop the tranny. That post was usefull inasmuch as I will probably use the tie-down strap/ piece of wood trick to support the back end of the engine. To lower the tranny I will probably use a strap with an engine hoist with the boom through the passenger side door, and the strap through the shifter opening. That will leave me with more room under the vehicle for a trolley jack if I need one to balace the load. Once again, weather permitting I will be doing this tomorrow. I plan to post my progress in 'the garage'. Wish me luck. BTW. Today I removed my exhaust manifold studs (4 broken) watch for my post. It went REALLY well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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