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Starter Removal Help


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So I have finally come around to replacing starter in my Path. The previous turns over fairly well, but when the outside temp reaches 95+ degrees, it just clicks with no ignition. After a few tries it will finally turn over.

 

I have followed all the steps in the Chiltons Manual, but have been unsuccessful in taking the old starter out. I searched but did not find anyone that posted a trick to removing it.

 

I've tried pulling it towards the front, but it's still wedged. Tried pulling it up, but to no avail. Tried pulling it out from the bottom, but still a no go.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks,

David

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So I have finally come around to replacing starter in my Path. The previous turns over fairly well, but when the outside temp reaches 95+ degrees, it just clicks with no ignition. After a few tries it will finally turn over.

 

I have followed all the steps in the Chiltons Manual, but have been unsuccessful in taking the old starter out. I searched but did not find anyone that posted a trick to removing it.

 

I've tried pulling it towards the front, but it's still wedged. Tried pulling it up, but to no avail. Tried pulling it out from the bottom, but still a no go.

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks,

David

 

 

It's a tight squeeze , you should be able to remove it from the side . You removed the heat shield from the

exhaust headers right ? also try relocating some of the lines that may be in the way . I'm sure someone else will post

more ways to do it but this has worked for me a number of times in the past .

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I'm guessing that you have an automatic tranny?? The 'traditional' way is out through the front. You have to clock it in a few stages along the way for clearance and the tranny lines are usually the last hurdle. It can be done though, do not give up or get mad. It is a PITA for everyone without a body lift.

 

I'm certain there has to be a write up/description around here. Could have sworn k9sar did one...

 

B

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yeah , BigMike did a write up on Replacing Your Starter on a 1987-95 . Its in the General Topics >

> The Garage > How-To's under replacing your stater on a 1987-95 . Good luck on the removal

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Found that post, but he has a 3" lift and I believe a smaller starter possibly.. Haha. Tried following his steps, but once again, to no avail. Just would not come.

 

I have a large plastic wrapped tube of wires that leads to the starter. Not sure if that is supposed to be disconnected or not. Is kind of in the way.

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You want to pull the cable bundle out with it... if it is bolted onto the oil pan (as mine is) then disconnect that. Alternatively you can detach the bundle from the starter and get it out of the way first.

 

I just took my starter out and found it to be pretty easy with no body lift, t-bars cranked 1". I did remove the front diff first though. Perhaps that makes it easier somehow. Also manual transmission, so no cooler lines.

Edited by sewebster
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1 disconnect battery

2 remove 2 bolts on trans side

4. remove skid

3 twist (like 3 different clocked positions and pull out front

4 remove wires

5 reverse installation

 

the first 2 times i did it sucked...now i can get the starter out and changed in about 15-20 mins total

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Not sure what turns your mentioning. My starter doesn't turn at all. It has a "heat shield" type piece on it that can't be removed that catches on the frame or something.

 

It is a Nissan OEM starter. Pretty sure it was installed in the factory back in '95. Could it be that it is just too large?

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Not sure what turns your mentioning. My starter doesn't turn at all. It has a "heat shield" type piece on it that can't be removed that catches on the frame or something.

 

It is a Nissan OEM starter. Pretty sure it was installed in the factory back in '95. Could it be that it is just too large?

 

Ok I just went through this with my 95 auto pathfinder no body lift.

you need to take out the auto tranny lines that hook up to the radiator. do that and it slides out the front. lube patience and some wiggleing required. they run from the side of the tranny along the side of the engine block.

 

The lines aren't that hard to remove just a couple bolts holding it to the tranny and the rubber lines connecting them to the rad. you will get tranny fuild everywhere if you are not careful. I would recomend jacking up front of the truck loosening the bolt on the side of the tranny pan let that drain into a bucket that way there is a lot less fluid to leak from the rad when you disconect the lines from the front. After you get them disconnected you should be able to gently pull them out toward the rear of the vehicle. make sure when you put it all back together to replace the fuild you drained.

 

hth

ejin

Edited by ejin4499
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I recently did the exact same thing on my rig. I kept looking at it and thinking "there is no efing way this thing coming out of the front!" The key I found was making sure it is clocked properly upon exit and removing the brackets for the tranny lines. Also, when it gets all the way forward near the transmission lines, give the lines a real hard pull down and just rip the starter out. I thought I could finesse it out but no. You gotta rip that thing out. Lastly, I think everyone says its easier the second or fourth time because all of the lines and brackets are bent up and mangled enough to allow it to slide out easy.

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I have a 95 4-door with auto tranny and I was unable to get mine out easily since the tranny lines were rigid and were not going to be removed. I took off the passenger side wheel and the spray skirt so I had fairly good access to the starter. Since it was malfunctioning, I figured I'd take it apart right there. The main thing that hit was the bracket/shield that covers the connector to the solenoid. one or 2 small screws and that shield comes right off and it is then EASY to get the starter out the front past the tranny lines and suspension. After cleaning the starter and fixing it (I have a post in here about how to do that), I zip-tied the connector to the starter and threw that damned bracket/shield in the trash. No more problems getting it in or out..

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