How To Remove Master Power Window Switch

[NeilR]

I'm new here, with a very basic question. Humor me

 

I need to remove the Master Power Window Switch on a '91 Pathfinder SE-V6 for cleaning and inspection. The right passenger window will go down but not up when using the driver's master switch. The passenger side switch works fine in both directions. From research here I need to check the plugs, clean them and maybe try to get some contact cleaner in the switch?

 

Do I just pry the switch up from the arm rest with something like a putty knife? I''m asking before I break something

 

I'm the original owner of this Pathfinder. It's been good to me but the years have taken a toll, especially since it's never been garaged (no room- my '85 RX-7 still has that spot).

 

Thanks,

Neil

[silverton]

Usually it's not that they are dirty, but that they have failed. but yes, I usually use a flat head screen driver on the bottom of the assembly and pry up.

 

If it turns out that you need a switch, I have one that I'll let go for the price of shipping.

[nunya]

I have a pair of front door panels from an early 4 door wd21, I think you have to yank the panels to get the switch out as I never removed the switches when I yanked the panels from the truck that donated them to me. (have big plans for the spare window switches... If I ever get to/want to mess with the wiring) could be wrong though, wouldn't be the first time...

 

 

(and switch cleaning may or may not work, helps breath extra life outa headlight switches, don't give up hope! But keep a backup plan as well... As in be prepaired to bug some parting people )

Edited February 1, 2011 by nunya

[silverton]

I have a pair of front door panels from an early 4 door wd21, I think you have to yank the panels to get the switch out as I never removed the switches when I yanked the panels from the truck that donated them to me. (have big plans for the spare window switches... If I ever get to/want to mess with the wiring)

 

No yanking door cards. Switches are just "popped" in to place.

[nunya]

Why I added the "could be wrong" part. Coulda been just me being destructive when I did pull the panels... Been over a year at least. Haven't even looked at them things in a while

[silverton]

The door card will come out with the switch still in place. Just gotta unclip the wiring.

[NeilR]

Thanks for all the quick responses!

 

I'm not very optimistic about this. I think the switch has gotten wet a couple of times over the years and what I really meant was corrosion not dirt. However, some people experienced miracles and reported it here. Could even be a loose plug. Hehe. I figured I would give it a try since I wasn't planning on paying full boat for a new one. For $135 I'll lean over and hit the passenger switch :-).

 

I tried spraying contact cleaner down from the top into the switch. That did not help (and didn't think it would).

 

Silverton- Unless a miracle occurs over the next day or two I will take you up on your very generous offer! I appreciate that. You are a gentleman and a scholar

 

Best,

Neil

[nunya]

 

Silverton- Unless a miracle occurs over the next day or two I will take you up on your very generous offer! I appreciate that. You are a gentleman and a scholar

 

Best,

Neil

not to sure about the scholar part but he is a good example of what we are about around here

[NeilR]

OK, status update.

 

I removed the master switch. I unscrewed the top black cover. I removed the bottom plate covering the traces to the wiring harness socket.

 

I have a meter and know how to use it but I don't understand the wiring of the switches at all. Is there a schematic available to help me understand the correct opens and shorts in various positions? I found two contacts under the window switches that are closed when the switch is at rest and open when the switch is rocked to the up or down position. Other pairs open or close depending on the position - raise or lower. As near as I can tell the bad switch (that does not raise the right side passenger window but lowers it) seems to behave like the other switches. Unfortunately I used a continuity checker and did not measure ohms (keep reading). However, it is probably tough to get good contact on the pins to get a reliable reading.

 

I cleaned the switch, getting a lot of accumulated junk out but there are a lot of nooks and crannies under the switches. I blew canned air under the switches to blow anything loose out, plus whatever I loosened up in cleaning. I sprayed contact cleaner under the switches but it does not appear as if the actual metal contacts are accessible without removing the last piece, which I do not want to do (unless advised) because I don't know what will go flying out. And I don't see any obvious problem with the switch.

 

The cable harness plug contacts and the switch contacts look fine... I don't see any signs of obvious corrosion, especially on the plug and socket since the switch itself seems to be ok. I know that switches can develop resistance without appearing badly corroded so I sprayed contact cleaner on the wiring harness plug and socket contacts before reassembling for a test, and I disconnected and inserted the plug 3 times to try to scrape off any hidden surface corrosion.

 

All that cleaning did not materially change anything. However, when I first installed the switch it operated the window very weakly and feebly for a few seconds. If I press down hard on the switch (probably harder than is healthy for it) I get a very weak response in the raise position. I think that suggests that despite all my testing there is likely a problem in the switch itself?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks for your indulgence,

Neil

[silverton]

Just so that this post is public, I'll reply to your PM in a moment.

 

When I got my old 95 XE, the master switch would not roll the passenger window up, I had to lean across the truck to use the passenger door switch. so it doesn't surprise me that you're having the same problem.

 

I found out one day while replacing the window in the driver door of my 95 SE, that the other windows are "dead" unless the master switch is plugged in, that is why there are so many wires going to it. It's a good failsafe just in a case a switch does die, you can still roll the window up/down!

[NeilR]

I found out one day while replacing the window in the driver door of my 95 SE, that the other windows are "dead" unless the master switch is plugged in, that is why there are so many wires going to it. It's a good failsafe just in a case a switch does die, you can still roll the window up/down!

 

How can I still roll the window up and down if the windows are dead? I'm confused

 

I assume that the master switch and the other 3 door switches act something like a two way switch in a house, where certain faults would kill the whole system - such as an unplugged master switch, which I assume prevents power from going to any of the windows. But I'm guessing without a schematic.

[silverton]

That's what I meant. The other door switches, run through the master switch on the driver door.

 

Therefore, if the master switch is unplugged, none of the window motors have power.

[ahardb0dy]

Sometimes when the switches are on there way out you have to press on the switch real hard and the window will go up, can't help with a schematic but I do know if you don't have the pass. side lock button in place when you have the switch apart than none of the windows will do anything.

[Dowser]

I suggest getting the switch from silverton, Popping it in, and exclaiming "BRILLIANT! SIMPLY BRILLIANT!" when it solves all your Window woes.

 

If that doesn't work, head down to your local junkyard and pop the whole master assembly out of a wreck and take it home with you.

 

 

And Welcome to the Community. That's amazing that you're still the original owner. These forums can make that vehicle the only vehicle you'll ever need your whole life. Keep it alive baby..... Keep it alive.

[ahardb0dy]

I suggest getting the switch from silverton, Popping it in, and exclaiming "BRILLIANT! SIMPLY BRILLIANT!" when it solves all your Window woes.

 

If that doesn't work, head down to your local junkyard and pop the whole master assembly out of a wreck and take it home with you.

 

 

And Welcome to the Community. That's amazing that you're still the original owner. These forums can make that vehicle the only vehicle you'll ever need your whole life. Keep it alive baby..... Keep it alive.

 

If you can find one at the junkyard!

[DoctorBill]

If you are going to give up and go buy a new switch or get a used one at the wrecking yard, why not

open the old one up first and have a "go at it" ?

 

My wife's '97 Suzuki Sport Sidekick had this same problem - many of the functions of the master switch

just didn't work or were weak.

 

I pulled the switch out, was about to give up - decided to go for broke and opened the thing up.

 

Complex as hell when I first looked at the guts....then after studying how each swtich works (all the same

way) I was able to take each one of the non-functioners apart.

 

They were tiny half-inch rocker switches with tiny curved metal, spring plates.

 

After years of making and breaking contact under several amps load, the sparking had pitted and blackened

where the copper ends made contact.

 

I scraped both the top and bottom contact areas clean of black residue and depitted the copper by more scraping.

 

Have a small piece of emery paper available and a hobby knife like a scalpel plus long nose pliers.

An old worn out emery fingernail file works well for getting the black oxide off of the contact points.

 

I applied a small amount of ZINC OXIDE OINTMENT to the contact points (old electronic engineering

secret) so that they are covered and when they spark, oxygen is kept out and Zinc metal plates onto the copper.

 

I reassembled the complex switch (Takes some REAL PATIENCE and care) and now it works like a new

switch that cost several hundreds of dollars at the Dealer.

 

This was scary to do - watch out that tiny parts and springs don't fly out or get lost.

 

For God's sake, take only one switch apart at a time !

 

Work on a clean sheet spread out underneath you and don't get distracted.

 

Try it - what have you got to lose ? Just be very, very patient and don't break any of the plastic.

 

Try to understand how each part works - maybe take digital photos even ! If you get lost, go back and

look at the close up photos to get back to where you were.

 

Hey you old guys ! Wear your reading glasses while doing this !

 

Remember - hundreds of dollars....

 

 

DoctorBill

Edited February 6, 2011 by DoctorBill

[NavyP503]

I've had the passenger side switch completely apart and the actual mechanism isn't all that complicated. I cleaned the contacts much the same way DoctorBill did and that helped, but the plastic rocker portion of the switch had worn down so much it would no longer push the contacts together anymore unless you really crank on it. So if your'e feeling up to it, taking the switch apart isn't too bad.

 

Also, the switches work the other way around as well, if you have the passenger door switch unplugged, you can't roll the window down using the master switch. I'm headed to the junkyard soon, if I find a broken master switch assembly I'll post up a breakdown of the switch.