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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Post some pics of that. I have a few designs drawn up but never made them, I'd to see one actually made.

 

heh sure thing.. i made the template with a piece of cardboard in the truck, then started cutting the mdf lol.. its pretty simple design, only 6" deep, so it doesn't stick out any farther than the fenderwell, and does not block the cover in the corner. a 10" would fit if it was a low pro sub. but the box size might be a little small for a 10" so i am going with an 8". it'll be enough to round off the system i think.. (everything is kenwood and amped anyways) took about 2 hours yesterday to get the box cut, glued and ready for carpet.. and that was burning a router bit up too :/

 

couple pics before it gets cutout and carpeted. (the rough product, if i make another it will be out of 3/4 or 1" mdf. this one is 1/2"

the pencil is there so you can see how wide it is. it will bolt to where my inside tire mount was. (3 bolts)

 

DSC02688.jpg

DSC02689.jpg

Edited by kodi3482
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last night i set the ignition timing.

 

 

today, listed it on CL. any one on here want it?? its either someone buys it, or its getting trade for a jeep, or a subaru legacy/legacy gt/legacy gt wagon/legacy wagon/ legacy sport touring turbo/legacy touring turbo wagon. or a nissan maxima. unless i can decide what the hell im going to to do with it.

Now why are you getting rid of this one? I thought it was the version you really wanted. BTW, a solid jeep is going to cost you more money, a subaru...well....do you like doing headgaskets? Maxima? Still going to have to put money into it....

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Well, the hubs are free-running from what I've ascertained, so as long as there is axle movement forward, below a certain threshold, that's what actually locks the hubs. Free-running hubs are like a bicycle. When you pedal and the drive axle tries to move forward faster than the wheel, it locks and causes the wheel to move forward. When you don't pedal and cost, it just ratchets along. When you pedal backwards, it has no effect but to ratchet. Same concept. (And the reason Reverse doesn't drive the front wheels, as I've read it doesn't)

 

Of course, I could be wrong, and if I am, do correct me.

 

Regardless, I prefer the reliability of manual anything, so I'm looking to swap 'em out.

 

Front wheels can definitely drive in reverse. The front hubs can also lock while the front wheels are not turning. This happens to me often while I'm goofing around under the truck. Start turning the front driveshaft and a hub locks and it gets harder to turn because now you have to turn a wheel too. It's the torque applied by the shaft to the wheel that causes the hub brakes to lock up. If anything this is easier to achieve while the front wheels are NOT turning. But I wouldn't be surprised if there can be some issues with worn brake plates and too much throttle application etc etc.

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Now why are you getting rid of this one? I thought it was the version you really wanted. BTW, a solid jeep is going to cost you more money, a subaru...well....do you like doing headgaskets? Maxima? Still going to have to put money into it....

it is the version of a PATHFINDER i want. but its just making me mad at it. trying to fix it. but not ending up anywhere. ive also found cherokees for 3500$ and under. subarus, i had a 1993 with 214k and never had the HG's replaced. not saying they wouldnt have gone bad soon. but that is quite a few miles for subaru HG's. Maxima would just get better MPG than the Pathfinder, and more fun to drive on the street, since i dont go off road enough to enjoy pathfinder.

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Now why are you getting rid of this one? I thought it was the version you really wanted. BTW, a solid jeep is going to cost you more money, a subaru...well....do you like doing headgaskets? Maxima? Still going to have to put money into it....

lolwut? are you sure you know what you're talking about?

You can get BUILT Cherokees for like $3500. Dana swaps, 6in lift, like 35in tires. completely decked out for nothing. Cherokees are about the same prices as WD21s. For jeeps, there is MUCH MUCH MUCH more variety in parts. Expensive jeeps? I think you're thinking of wrangers that are expensive for no reason.

 

Subarus? problems? those two words don't go together. Nothing else needs to be said about Subarus.

Head gasket problems? I think you mean Toyota.

 

 

heh sure thing.. i made the template with a piece of cardboard in the truck, then started cutting the mdf lol.. its pretty simple design, only 6" deep, so it doesn't stick out any farther than the fenderwell, and does not block the cover in the corner. a 10" would fit if it was a low pro sub. but the box size might be a little small for a 10" so i am going with an 8". it'll be enough to round off the system i think.. (everything is kenwood and amped anyways) took about 2 hours yesterday to get the box cut, glued and ready for carpet.. and that was burning a router bit up too :/

 

couple pics before it gets cutout and carpeted. (the rough product, if i make another it will be out of 3/4 or 1" mdf. this one is 1/2"

the pencil is there so you can see how wide it is. it will bolt to where my inside tire mount was. (3 bolts)

 

DSC02688.jpg

DSC02689.jpg

DUDE NICE!!

 

That's a really good idea. It's not like you can use that space for anything else considering the awkwardness of the wheelwell. Very good use of space

Edited by 1994SEV6
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Only problems I've ever had with head gaskets blowing up randomly is with the 87-91 Supra with the 7M-GE and GTE engines, because the heads were undertorqued from the factory. I've known Subarus over 200k with factory gaskets, and I've known Nissans to blow their gaskets in the first 100 miles after a rebuild. It all depends on how good the owner is at taking care of his car.

 

Moving on, the 4th generation Maxima (95-01) is an amazing car. Good performance, spacious, good fuel economy, reliable, cheap to maintain, and frankly, cheap. Not to mention they look good. I just got done suggesting to a guy on Club S12, a 4th-gen Maxima for his wife. I cannot praise them enough. They also come with VG30s, which means they're solid, powerful cars. (Though I'm pretty sure they use VG30DEs, instead of VG30E)

 

Whatever you choose, do put pics up. I'd like to see.

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Only problems I've ever had with head gaskets blowing up randomly is with the 87-91 Supra with the 7M-GE and GTE engines, because the heads were undertorqued from the factory. I've known Subarus over 200k with factory gaskets, and I've known Nissans to blow their gaskets in the first 100 miles after a rebuild. It all depends on how good the owner is at taking care of his car.

 

Moving on, the 4th generation Maxima (95-01) is an amazing car. Good performance, spacious, good fuel economy, reliable, cheap to maintain, and frankly, cheap. Not to mention they look good. I just got done suggesting to a guy on Club S12, a 4th-gen Maxima for his wife. I cannot praise them enough. They also come with VG30s, which means they're solid, powerful cars. (Though I'm pretty sure they use VG30DEs, instead of VG30E)

 

Whatever you choose, do put pics up. I'd like to see.

I'm pretty sure Maximas after 95 didn't use the VG. I'm pretty sure they used the VQ. Yep. Just double checked. The only things that Nissan put the VGs in AFTER 94 were the Quest (I think. Up until 98), the trucks, and I think that's it.

 

Toyota has head gasket issues on a few (one or two) other engines, too. The 7M was by far the worst though. The bolts were undertorqued something significant like 30ft-lbs.

Edited by 1994SEV6
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I'm pretty sure Maximas after 95 didn't use the VG. I'm pretty sure they used the VQ. Yep. Just double checked. The only things that Nissan put the VGs in AFTER 94 were the Quest (I think. Up until 98), the trucks, and I think that's it.

nope. you lied. PROOF

1995-1999 had the VG30E

1994 and down had the VG30DE which made slightly less power than the VG30E

vq switched in 2000 and became the VQ30DE 2002 got the VQ33DE.

Today it has the VQ35DE. All obtained from wikipedia...

Wikipedia INFO

 

 

BACK ON TOPIC!

Put some Heet in pathy today, drove like hell. and also did a 0-60 test. :) got there in approx 13 seconds.

Edited by Kyle94
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nope. you lied. PROOF

1995-1999 had the VG30E

1994 and down had the VG30DE which made slightly less power than the VG30E

vq switched in 2000 and became the VQ30DE 2002 got the VQ33DE.

Today it has the VQ35DE. All obtained from wikipedia...

Wikipedia INFO

 

 

BACK ON TOPIC!

Put some Heet in pathy today, drove like hell. and also did a 0-60 test. :) got there in approx 13 seconds.

what do you mean I lied? Nowhere on that website did it say "Vg". If you think I'm lying because it has a "3 litre motor", then you need to become acquainted with the VQ30DE.

 

nope. YOU lied. link

Edited by 1994SEV6
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lolwut? are you sure you know what you're talking about?

You can get BUILT Cherokees for like $3500. Dana swaps, 6in lift, like 35in tires. completely decked out for nothing. Cherokees are about the same prices as WD21s. For jeeps, there is MUCH MUCH MUCH more variety in parts. Expensive jeeps? I think you're thinking of wrangers that are expensive for no reason.

 

Subarus? problems? those two words don't go together. Nothing else needs to be said about Subarus.

Head gasket problems? I think you mean Toyota.

 

 

 

How about you learn before trying to talk @!*% huh? Subaru= major problems. Head/water pump/ fuel deleivery problems are common among every subby I've seen. I know, I had to deal with a teachers forestor in school. 6 years old (2003 model) and it needed 3k in parts alone.

 

A "built" xj on the WEST COAST are a lot of money. Jeeps arent worth it unless it has flat fenders or a V8. I can under stand how he may want a Jeep XJ but the 4.0 engine isnt that good the MAINs start going at 250k. I've seen/ heard mainy a 4.0 that knocked at that milage. I mean hell I can get 4.5 inch lifted xj's on 33's for 1500 in my area. All day long.

I'm not sticking up or defending 5523pathfinder in anyway. I've gotten pissed at him in the past. But what he said here is 100 percent true and not bs in any form.

 

Oh yeah, DANA AXLES came under ever XJ ever made. And you never ever buy a prebuilt truck. Just a little hint, since I know I beat the sheeit out of my resold cars. Have a nice day dude.

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ROFL! don't mind my dumbassedness! :P i read VQ as VG. then i thought you were trying to say the 1995 had the VQ when i read VG. so i was like nuh uh! sorry. :D

 

 

Just to continue on topic, i also forgot i ran the ECU diagnostics (self) and got code 55. which means no malfunctions... so still hunting.. :(

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ROFL! don't mind my dumbassedness! :P i read VQ as VG. then i thought you were trying to say the 1995 had the VQ when i read VG. so i was like nuh uh! sorry. :D

 

 

Just to continue on topic, i also forgot i ran the ECU diagnostics (self) and got code 55. which means no malfunctions... so still hunting.. :(

it's ok. I think you just wanted to believe that Nissan still used the VGs. I want to believe it.

 

Anyways, today I replaced my leaking caliper. Yay for safety. Yay for not having to fill up brake fluid once a week. Yay for not having paint-eating fluid being flung around my wheelwell.

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Kyle mentioned this thread to me, so let the maxima guy step in.... not too good with first gen, but....

 

85-88 - VG30i

89-91 -ALL Trims - VG30e

92-94 - GXE - VG30e

92-94 - SE - VE30DE

95-99 - VQ30DE

00-02 - VQ30DE-k

02.5-current - VQ35DE

 

Kyle is wrong, but admitted it.

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i've never had to replace any door seals on any of my vehicles, I'd rather have nice smelling door jams with non-freezing doors than 'non-oil deteroiating' rubber seals that freeze to the metal and get cracked/torn. I've used Pam on many a door for many a years

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i've never had to replace any door seals on any of my vehicles, I'd rather have nice smelling door jams with non-freezing doors than 'non-oil deteroiating' rubber seals that freeze to the metal and get cracked/torn. I've used Pam on many a door for many a years

hmm. cool little trick. I'll have to add that to spraying WD-40 or PB on the key to prevent freezing locks.

 

I've used Pam myself, nice girl...

I see what you did there.

 

 

So, I just forced myself to go out and finally fix my blower motor. I've been using that excuse for too long.

My mom: so what are you doing now?

Me: getting leaves out of my blower motor

*gone for 3 hours* next day.

my mom: what are you doing now?

me: getting leaves out of my blower motor.

My mom: I thought you did that yesterday!

me: uhh, yeah..um. I had to research how to do it. It's not as easy as I thought.

 

I'm sure you guys on here don't need explaining about that. You know how it is.

 

I went out there. Did it in 5 minutes actually. 3 screws and a power plug. Had some old dry leaves in there. picked them out. Blower sounds smooth now.

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so i finished my custom box today. went to the budget audio shop and picked up a 10" sub a 750w amp (which is prolly more like 400w) and the carpet.. i shoulda bought an amp that was physically smaller tho and i coulda mounted it in the body behind the plastic, ohh well, the back of the seat has to work till i get a diff amp.. the box is secured in 3 spots by bolts, polyurethane bushings and 2" fender washers.. the bushings keep it from vibrating the body of the truck. thumps hard if you turn it up, sounds nice when its down.. box is not ported either, but it is filled with filler..

total cost including, sub, amp, wireing kit, wood, carpet, glue... $150, the 6 hours total build time Priceless.. :rofl:

 

i like retaining my cargo space :)

 

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DSC02696.jpg

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DSC02698.jpg

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so i finished my custom box today. went to the budget audio shop and picked up a 10" sub a 750w amp (which is prolly more like 400w) and the carpet.. i shoulda bought an amp that was physically smaller tho and i coulda mounted it in the body behind the plastic, ohh well, the back of the seat has to work till i get a diff amp.. the box is secured in 3 spots by bolts, polyurethane bushings and 2" fender washers.. the bushings keep it from vibrating the body of the truck. thumps hard if you turn it up, sounds nice when its down.. box is not ported either, but it is filled with filler..

total cost including, sub, amp, wireing kit, wood, carpet, glue... $150, the 6 hours total build time Priceless.. :rofl:

 

i like retaining my cargo space :)

 

 

that's actually really nice! Now you're ready to rock out. I'm thinking about doing the same thing for the ext. cab of my hardbody since I have the trans tunnel. I got this 600w amp in some weird trade and building a car audio system isn't even that expensive. Time to get to work!

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