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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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got the targa bar lights hooked up and mounted a couple of relays that were loose after the 88 to 95 electrical swap.

88 is back on the road with the 3.3. in her and is she happy with all the new goodies in her :D:D:D

Still have a few more things to do install the passenger side heated mirror, install the alarm module, figure out why the rear hatch release isn't working, and find a drivers side heated seat, and the electrical speedo is off 5mph at 70mph.

I can't believe how much difference there is between the old 3.0 tbi and the 3.3 mpi :dance::dance::dance::dance:

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Still have a few more things to do install the passenger side heated mirror, install the alarm module, figure out why the rear hatch release isn't working, and find a drivers side heated seat, and the electrical speedo is off 5mph at 70mph.

I can't believe how much difference there is between the old 3.0 tbi and the 3.3 mpi :dance::dance::dance::dance:

Check out the Audiovox seat heater kits. I prefer these kits over all and very easy install. http://www.voxxelectronics.com/seat-heaters/

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Noticed at night my dash clock has been flickering. It sometimes clears itself up and behaves but there's that niggle that I know it does it. Speedo is also out by 4 km/h. Like when I'm doing 60 it's actually 64 km/h. I don't want any speeding tickets so I'll wind it back a bit and fix the clock light bulb at the same time.

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What have I not done. Today installed a factory Nissan hitch. I got it off a 97 QX4 that was spending its last days in a junk yard. It had some rust on it along with faded and chipping paint. It was a pain in the rear removing it from the QX4. It had only been on there since 97.....LOL!!! But, I finally got it removed. I grind ed, sanded primer and painted now it looks brand new. I also replaced the rubber step. In all it turned out awesome. It bolted right on to my 98 Pathy. I also removed the wiring harness which had T connectors that hooked right up to my factory tail lights I also installed the hitch wiring itself for trailer pulling.

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Went to the junkyard to get a door handle. Came back with a 95 center console, practically new rear bump stops, door armrest, hydraulic line clippie things, and an oem spare tire cover for about $55. Fixed the broken door handle, it's from a newer pathfinder so slightly different, but it works good. Readjusted the latch mechanism and some kind of aftermarket power locks.

The console was out of an automatic newer model. I cut it really quick and it fits nicely, and it has an armrest finally, makes driving the stick a lot more comfortable.

I'm keeping my eye out for manual hubs, their listed for like $15 a pair at all my local yards. I still have a few to check out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Either my speedo or the cable for it started buzzing when cold, so I pulled the cluster again and oiled the back of the gauge and the end of the cable. Hopefully that's all it needed. While I had the cluster surround off, I hacked LEDs into a couple more of the dash switches in place of the long-dead blue condom lights.

 

image_zpscfv64mf1.jpeg

 

And with the switch all back together, you can't see how sketchy my LED install was.

 

image_zpsq9zfjm8k.jpeg

 

Oh, and then there's this. Eventually it'll be the switch panel for my center console. Right now it's got me wishing I'd just drilled four holes for toggle switches.

image_zpslrsr93cs.jpeg

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My cruise control is working it will turn on the little light but it wont set the speed any suggestions why?

 

Does it turn on two lights and beep? Because mine does this, and it was because of the sensor being broken (mine has Intelligent Cruise Control).

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For those above with the cruise not working, it may just be you need to replace the rubber bumper on the brake pedal. This definitely applies to WD21s, but I can't say if R50s are the same way.

 

Here's a great pic of what's going on under the dash: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on/?p=684087

 

One of those bumpers is for the brake lights, the other is for cruise. If the Cruise light on the dash works but you can't set speed, then this is likely your culprit. The parts are about $3 from the dealer, and strongly recommend replacing both at the same time.

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For those above with the cruise not working, it may just be you need to replace the rubber bumper on the brake pedal. This definitely applies to WD21s, but I can't say if R50s are the same way.

 

Here's a great pic of what's going on under the dash: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on/?p=684087

 

One of those bumpers is for the brake lights, the other is for cruise. If the Cruise light on the dash works but you can't set speed, then this is likely your culprit. The parts are about $3 from the dealer, and strongly recommend replacing both at the same time.

I was just under there and saw mine was an electrical tape/cardboard dealio just for the brake light switch side haha looks like I'll be picking some up.

 

 

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Today was a sad day...I got a little overconfident, lost control, and kissed a tree. No major damage as far as I can tell, but if I want to make it perfect again I'm going to need at least the passenger headlight and fog light, bumper, passenger fender (with pinstripe) and flare, windshield washer fluid reservoir, repairs to lots of mounting brackets, and some hood straitening... It could have been a lot worse, but I'm mostly mad because the truck was almost perfect before this and I totally could have avoided it. :angry:

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Either my speedo or the cable for it started buzzing when cold, so I pulled the cluster again and oiled the back of the gauge and the end of the cable. Hopefully that's all it needed. While I had the cluster surround off, I hacked LEDs into a couple more of the dash switches in place of the long-dead blue condom lights.

 

image_zpscfv64mf1.jpeg

 

And with the switch all back together, you can't see how sketchy my LED install was.

 

image_zpsq9zfjm8k.jpeg

 

Oh, and then there's this. Eventually it'll be the switch panel for my center console. Right now it's got me wishing I'd just drilled four holes for toggle switches.

 

image_zpslrsr93cs.jpeg

Nissan makes some of the best switches if not the best as far as I'm concerned. Or MILES !!

The switches look great man I did the same thing to mine. If you know how to do it it's really easy

 

sent by MrCox in Lenoir City, TN

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Replaced a faulty battery that bit the dust during some cold temperatures. Got it replaced for free since it was not even 4 months old! Pathfinder roars to a start now :D

 

Mine squeals like a banshee to a start. Haha, I hate hate hate changing belts on this thing. Haha.

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Mine squeals like a banshee to a start. Haha, I hate hate hate changing belts on this thing. Haha.

ive pulled my belts off so many times in the last 2 months I got it down like clockwork. Gotta use the dewalt to buzz 2 of them quickly. I have yet been able to remove the p/s belt without removing the pulley though , pain in my royal ass.

 

 

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ive pulled my belts off so many times in the last 2 months I got it down like clockwork. Gotta use the dewalt to buzz 2 of them quickly. I have yet been able to remove the p/s belt without removing the pulley though , pain in my royal ass.

 

 

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The trick to getting the PS belt off is to remove the bolt that holds the metal tube in place for the lower radiator hose. Then when everything is loose you can push the pump towards the block and pop the belt over the edge of the pulley.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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The trick to getting the PS belt off is to remove the bolt that holds the metal tube in place for the lower radiator hose. Then when everything is loose you can push the pump towards the block and pop the belt over the edge of the pulley.

 

Sent from inside my potato

ive pulled my timing covers twice this week and both times with that metal coolant bracket off I couldn't do it. I even tried wacking it with a breaker bar to try an rotate it. I think my problem is that bolt behind the pulley which I think is where it rotates from, is TIGHT. You can't get to it with the pulley on and every time I have it off I forget to break it loose so I can do it right.

 

 

 

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Does your pulley not have 2 holes in it to get to the head of that bolt? Everyone I've ever seen does, might be worth the time to pull the pump off its mount and clean up the swivel areas and dab on a little antiseize.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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