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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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I'm going to be doing my brakes today. I have to bend new hard lines and bleed. I still have not found my extended rear brake line so I may have to deal without it for now until the truck is running first. If I have enough time, the transmission is going in.

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Bought some 2nd Bucket seats from a guys D21 Navara / Hardbody. Interior SLOWLY coming together over time... the count is now:

 

- r50 High box centre console & shifter

- Nismo Steering Wheel

- Auto Technica Bucket Seats

- Modified Custom Air vents

 

ccdd9510-1612-402d-8924-b68e33ce6e55_zps

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Bought some 2nd Bucket seats from a guys D21 Navara / Hardbody. Interior SLOWLY coming together over time... the count is now:

 

- r50 High box centre console & shifter

- Nismo Steering Wheel

- Auto Technica Bucket Seats

- Modified Custom Air vents

 

ccdd9510-1612-402d-8924-b68e33ce6e55_zps

Did you get the wiring resolved with the shifter?
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Replaced the drivers' side disc brake pads in the rear, due to the stuck glide pins.... which ate the pad and mangled the inside of the new rotor. I swapped pads after an attempt at grinding down the rotor this summer but that only pushed back the pad change date to this weekend. Which is what I did, since I already lubed the glide pins once I beat them off of the carrier with a large hammer... unpleasant Saturday really.

 

I also noticed some water in the passenger side footwell this morning, which means that the sunroof is still leaking and has maybe lead to the frame around the windshield to rust enough to leak, because of the stupid drain tubes being plugged again. :angry: Maybe if I just :hide: ? it won't be a problem??

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Over the summer I absolutely POUNDED my Pathy dragging in a 1.5 mile long fire break, and it took every bit I threw at it. So, over the last two weeks I showed it some major loving.

 

Week 1:

New front axles

strut rod bushings

upper and lower ball joints

centerlink

tie rod ends

Flushed and repacked wheel bearings

All new Nissan seals

four way alignment

power flushed brake fluid

drivers side motor mount

drivers side exhaust manifold

currently waiting on the steering damper parts

replaced the lower links for the rear axle

passenger side window switch panel (my 75 lb dog likes to stand on it when his head's out the window. The knuckle head has twice rolled up the window on his head.)

 

Week 2:

Removed everything off the top of the engine

cleaned out spark plug holes and top of block

spark plugs

ecu temp sensor

distributor cap and rotor

MSD coil swap

t-belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals

power steering and alternator belts

cleaned intake system from the air filter to the intake valves while the plenum and lower manifold were off.

EGR delete because the valve was bad and I destroyed the pipe trying to get it off

new PVC valve

new radiator core with my old metal header tanks, everything got silver soldered. (This alone accounted for about a quarter of the money spent.)

all new cooling system hoses

rerouted those two stupid little hoses off the back of the plenum with longer high pressure fuel injection hose. I'd love to meet the engineer that had that brilliant idea. :angry:

electric fan and thermostat swap (Look in The Garage area for build thread)

cleaned every electrical contact and ground point I could lay my hands on.

 

I still have the new battery cables to replace, and the parts are sitting here waiting til I have the time.

 

I did a lot of other odds and ends, also.

 

All said, I think the receipts are in the $2,000 range. I'm not going to add them up 'cause I really don't want to know. I do know that the Pathy deserved it after the pounding it took last summer.

 

Resbum

 

 

And this is why you should check the spark plug holes before changing your plugs

 

Before cleaning

6gVmFV.jpg

 

 

After cleaning

iWvYHG.jpg

Edited by Resbum
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Resbum, thats a heck of a lot of work. You should be proud

 

 

Cut gaskets for my warn hubs, and felt my feet get hot because my new exhaust has a leak :angry: Deciding whether I want to deal with it myself or if I want to take it back to the PITA shop that did it..

Edited by CO_pathfinder
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Resbum, thats a heck of a lot of work. You should be proud

 

 

Cut gaskets for my warn hubs, and felt my feet get hot because my new exhaust has a leak :angry: Deciding whether I want to deal with it myself or if I want to take it back to the PITA shop that did it..

 

Have them fix it or refund you back some of the cost.

 

I went to the pick and pull and got me a power steering bracket and took some pictures.

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Have them fix it or refund you back some of the cost.

 

I've given up on this shop completely. I asked for several specific things to be done when they did the exhaust header back, and every single thing I asked for was ignored and later addressed by saying "I can't make that work without also spending xxxx on xxxx." It was too much of a hassle to get them to do anything so I'm just going to do it myself... It would be great if they hadn't side piped it under the trailing arm bracket because now the first rock I drive over is going to rip the whole thing off :angry:

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I remembered I had some sheep wool buffing pads in the shed but don't have the disc that goes onto them so I decided to make my own. Had some quarter inch mdf board laying around so I measured the disc size so the pad will fit over it nicely. Cut the round shape for the disc, drilled a hole in the center for a flat head bolt to fit through, fit a washer on that with a nut tightened really well on the other side. Slip the buffing pad over the disc and it fits my drill. Can't wait to try it out.

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I've given up on this shop completely. I asked for several specific things to be done when they did the exhaust header back, and every single thing I asked for was ignored and later addressed by saying "I can't make that work without also spending xxxx on xxxx." It was too much of a hassle to get them to do anything so I'm just going to do it myself... It would be great if they hadn't side piped it under the trailing arm bracket because now the first rock I drive over is going to rip the whole thing off :angry:

 

I ended hacking my rear pipe off and putting a turn down for now. Loud inside the cab and the drone can drive you mad Lol.

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I got my pathy out of body shop... she's got new shiny paint is is slick as a greased whistle. I had a buddy do some work on her on the cheap because I don't drive junk and I love my R50.

 

Then my brother and I went to pick up my old car an 1989 LTD that the title got tied up in some nasty legal junk for over a year...

We changed the oil in the Vic went over the tires fluids everything.... jumped in and hit the key, NOTHING... cleaned the solenoid... nothing!!! crawled under it to beat the starter and holy crap... literally nothing, somebody had stolen the original freaking 30yro starter!!!

 

So we hooked it to the pathy, hauled her home (the car weighed more than the R50) we put a starter on the LTD and my brother is driving it now.

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I remembered I had some sheep wool buffing pads in the shed but don't have the disc that goes onto them so I decided to make my own. Had some quarter inch mdf board laying around so I measured the disc size so the pad will fit over it nicely. Cut the round shape for the disc, drilled a hole in the center for a flat head bolt to fit through, fit a washer on that with a nut tightened really well on the other side. Slip the buffing pad over the disc and it fits my drill. Can't wait to try it out.

I can't wait for the next episode :-)

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Ok all...Pathy is running great! So far I have replaced the brake master cylinder, water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, fan clutch, fan, alternator, upper and lower radiator hoses and a full oil change. A little over a week ago the CEL came on, and my codes were 33(heated O2 sensor ), 34(knock sensor) and 45(leaking injector). So, I replaced the injector that was leaking, most of the vacuum lines since it was all apart, all spark plugs, the fuel line that links the 2 sides of the fuel rail, plenum gasket, removed EGR and replaced the gasket, and another full oil change since I had gas in the oil. Got it all put back together, and it fired right up first try!!!!! :takebow: Drove it around for a little bit, and the damn CEL came back on, codes 33 and 34 again. So, after beating the he** out of the old O2 sensor to be able to get it out, I got it replaced and rewired too!!! Knock sensor code was still there, but I reset the ECU and it's now reading 55(no malfunctions)!!!!!!!!!!! :wiggle::aok: Not bad for being a woman, doing most of the work by myself (my husband helped with the first round, but I did everything myself after the CEL came on the first time other than he helped a little putting it back together) and did it all with my 3 kids at home! (ages 7,2 &1)! Hopefully the damn knock sensor code doesn't come back...if it does though, I'll just relocate it...not tearing that all apart again unless it is totally unavoidable! YAY ME!!!!! :clap:

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The pathfinder is running again! I spent hours trying to troubleshoot a no start. It turns out I had hooked up the fuel feed hoses backwards. I switched it and it fired up on first crank. It really had really bad lifter tap but went away as it warmed up. I drove it forwards and reverse in the parking lot to test the transmission. I'll do a highway test when I modify my shocks to fit. I just need to drill out the metal sleeves to 5/8th inch so I can use these shocks.

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^Good to hear, and good luck on the highway test! About time that thing gave you a break.

 

I started my center console build by getting the E-brake out of the way. It's actually pretty solid like this, though at some point I'll weld the longer strap to the plate below to take the wiggle out of it.

 

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg10/Darwinpasta/IMG_7144_zpstjzjauqq.jpg

 

This makes room for cup holders (like what Nissan Nut did with his). The ammo can will fit into that frame there to become the new console box between the seats. There's room below it for a power inverter, maybe a 12v socket as well. If I get really ambitious later I may even skin the thing with sheet metal.

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^Good to hear, and good luck on the highway test! About time that thing gave you a break.

 

I started my center console build by getting the E-brake out of the way. It's actually pretty solid like this, though at some point I'll weld the longer strap to the plate below to take the wiggle out of it.

 

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg10/Darwinpasta/IMG_7144_zpstjzjauqq.jpg

 

This makes room for cup holders (like what Nissan Nut did with his). The ammo can will fit into that frame there to become the new console box between the seats. There's room below it for a power inverter, maybe a 12v socket as well. If I get really ambitious later I may even skin the thing with sheet metal.

 

How well does the parking brake work with the cable at an angle like that? Any binding?

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The brake seems to work fine, no obvious binding and about the same hold strength as before (still needs adjustment). If I find myself with extra room after mounting the cup holders, though, I'll likely shorten the standoffs a little to soften the angles.

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I ended hacking my rear pipe off and putting a turn down for now. Loud inside the cab and the drone can drive you mad Lol.

Lol already got that fan-whine always so a little drone wouldn't be bad.. too bad its leakin at the y. And its a BRAND NEW Y PIPE.

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