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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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Took some 3M Perfect It Compound and buffed my headlights,blinker and fog lights. out I got a pair of headlights off a 2000 QX4 from my local pull a part and installed them on my 97. Perfect fit just had to rewire the connections. They look brand new.7fd013ae7e5c99857d40698e693c566b.jpg

 

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Looks great! The Infiniti lettering under the headlights is a nice touch.

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Greased the bearings on passenger side, wanted to grease the cv hub bearings but couldn't get it open from the front. Installed new control arm and both upper and lower ball joints and reinstalled everything. Took apart drivers side and got control arm out, bushings drilled and burned out, spindle primed and has first coat of paint.

 

I need to get grease and a grease gun now. So many zerk fittings to do now. Kinda annoyed my top balljoint zerk fitting doesn't want to thread in but it should still work. Might put some teflon on it and see if that helps when I go to grease it all.

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Replaced drivers side upper and lower ball joints and greased bearings. Added more coats of paint to the spindle so after some clear coats it will be ready to go in and I can tie everything together again. Removed tie rods and centerlink from the truck to begin the 2wd steering conversion and immediately ran into issues with my truck being a vg33 swap and a massaged out oil pan that barely cleared the original centerlink.

Bummer but oh well, still need to get the TREs drilled and tapped to fit

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Well, a reasonably productive day:got all the door panels & associated switches installed. Fixed the failed climate control system-the fan was the only actual issue. Glad I grabbed the one that someone had graciously removed for me, at the wreckers-lol. Ran it for a half an hour and all seems to be functioning fine. I'm hoping it will only the addition of a accessory belt(currently missing), that will make the AC work but I'm not holding my breath-lol.

 

FINALLY found a set of 6 way power seats that WILL work in the truck!! I think that once they are in, Goldy just may be road ready! This has taken much longer than originally anticipated but I'm still under $2000 for the project and when Marvin is finished I can always sell it to recoup my cash outlay-WINNING!

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Got my seats(& 3rd brake light assy too)for Goldy tonight and RID of the '99 seats that wouldnt work. With a real nice drive into Vancouver and back w/Marvin...only to galvanize to the fact that Marvin NEEDS a lot of new parts.

 

Soon buddy, soon.

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Got the centerlink on, hits oil pan for some reason so I'm considering shimming the motor to clear it. Put clear coat on uca spindle, hopefully by tomorrow night i can finish that up and install it to the drivers side, just have to remember to get up at 4am for another clear coat.

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Got the centerlink on, hits oil pan for some reason so I'm considering shimming the motor to clear it. Put clear coat on uca spindle, hopefully by tomorrow night i can finish that up and install it to the drivers side, just have to remember to get up at 4am for another clear coat.

 

Did you use the vg33 or vg30 oil pan?

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Did you use the vg33 or vg30 oil pan?

Vg30 oil pan and dented it to fit the crank.

 

Considering the truck is 24 years old I'm thinking if I install new motor mounts it could allieve the situation as well since the old ones are most likely adding pretty good. Not sure how to check that though, guess it's time to search google

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Got spindle on drivers uca and installed everything. Was a bit of a PITA by myself this time using my leg to jack the LCA up while holding it in position For uca but got it done and the truck is back on 4 wheels again.

Started it up, had my brother in law put it in 1st and reverse and let out the clutch to see if the motor would jump. Motor was solid on start up and both gears so motor mounts are still good and shouldn't be sagging from my knowledge. Not sure if there is another test I could try to be 100% sure but I'll have to Google more for that. Back to the idea of shimming the motor with a 1/4 steel or aluminum block.

 

CL only hits going straight and hardly rubs but last thing i want is to rub a hole in the oilpan. I just find it so strange I'm the only one who has had this problem with 2wd steering conversion.

Edited by Charlie_Brown
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Installed strobe light on to my back up light's. I'm a trash man and come across car parts all the time. I found this strobe wires ripped out of it. So I fixed it and the color is green. Lol. I installed it anyway. So now when I back up my reverse lights come on along with a green strobe. Lol!ec4bedc32d0506f3f22a40ef6c71f1d3.jpg94bc0cc0d6fa8d7c5549cdd9472e50cf.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk

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Got spindle on drivers uca and installed everything. Was a bit of a PITA by myself this time using my leg to jack the LCA up while holding it in position For uca but got it done and the truck is back on 4 wheels again.

Started it up, had my brother in law put it in 1st and reverse and let out the clutch to see if the motor would jump. Motor was solid on start up and both gears so motor mounts are still good and shouldn't be sagging from my knowledge. Not sure if there is another test I could try to be 100% sure but I'll have to Google more for that. Back to the idea of shimming the motor with a 1/4 steel or aluminum block.

 

CL only hits going straight and hardly rubs but last thing i want is to rub a hole in the oilpan. I just find it so strange I'm the only one who has had this problem with 2wd steering conversion.

Oh you're doing the 2wd swap... Never mind I have no experience with that.

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Huh, never heard of a green strobe on a vehicle. Amazing what you can find in the bin.

 

Mine did its stalling-at-idle routine again. Not misfiring, just acting like it wants to idle at 50 rpm for some reason. As usual, it cleared up before I could track it down, so I guess I'll figure it out later. You know what doesn't clear up? The chunks of insulation missing from one of my spark plug wires thanks to some damn rodent or another. Oh, well. The NGK wire is blue silicone. Permatex Ultra Blue is blue silicone. My path forward is clear.

 

Anyone rigged one of those electrocuter mousetraps to a vehicle battery? Couldn't be that hard to make it automatic. It just needs a little flipper to clear the trap after each kill and a relay to re-arm it. Of course, I'd probably come out to a flat battery and a pile of dead chipmunks, but at this point, I would be very much okay with that.

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Huh, never heard of a green strobe on a vehicle. Amazing what you can find in the bin.

 

Mine did its stalling-at-idle routine again. Not misfiring, just acting like it wants to idle at 50 rpm for some reason. As usual, it cleared up before I could track it down, so I guess I'll figure it out later. You know what doesn't clear up? The chunks of insulation missing from one of my spark plug wires thanks to some damn rodent or another. Oh, well. The NGK wire is blue silicone. Permatex Ultra Blue is blue silicone. My path forward is clear.

 

Anyone rigged one of those electrocuter mousetraps to a vehicle battery? Couldn't be that hard to make it automatic. It just needs a little flipper to clear the trap after each kill and a relay to re-arm it. Of course, I'd probably come out to a flat battery and a pile of dead chipmunks, but at this point, I would be very much okay with that.

Lol

Edited by onespiritbrain
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Got sent the wrong oxygen sensor for my frontier yet again, and finally got part of the templates made for my bumper they came out really nice and everything else should be a piece of cake once I have the center section built. Using foam board is super easy with a sharp razor bladeb85b3a0495b3c020a4c4e20b6b77ce5a.jpg

 

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Ok kids, since none of you were really helpful with my Q: What fuse controls the dash lights, I have the answer: It is the 7.5 amp, 2nd up from the bottom left side of the cabin fuse box...which so happened to be the 2nd LAST fuse I ended up pulling...it figures, right?.... So 2 of the 3 dash bulbs were burnt out and while the replacement ones I got worked, the original ones were slightly shorter and fatter. Not too sure if it will make any difference in the long term. The shifter and ashtray lights are still not working. But the bulbs tested out ok but who knows...more investigation is req'd.

 

That is all, V.

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Ok kids, since none of you were really helpful with my Q: What fuse controls the dash lights, I have the answer: It is the 7.5 amp, 2nd up from the bottom left side of the cabin fuse box...which so happened to be the 2nd LAST fuse I ended up pulling...it figures, right?.... So 2 of the 3 dash bulbs were burnt out and while the replacement ones I got worked, the original ones were slightly shorter and fatter. Not too sure if it will make any difference in the long term. The shifter and ashtray lights are still not working. But the bulbs tested out ok but who knows...more investigation is req'd.

 

That is all, V.

Isn't there a diagram of which fuse goes to what on the backside of the cover plate that tells you this?

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