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What did you do to your Pathfinder today?


RedRider3141
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That is a cool bit of ice!

 

Anyone played around with sand ladders? I've DIY'd a set of them for snow and ice, and I'm hoping to give them a good test sometime this week. I'll put a build vid together if they work. Can't be worse than cardboard and cat litter, right?

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Repliacing all the coolant hoses on the 88 and gaskets on the tube under the intake manifold, and modified the brass/copper tube in the upper rad hose it now has the temp sensor for the low speed

fan and temp sending unit soldered in it also a factory thermostat

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Yeah sorry 194 is the type of bulb used to illuminate the dash gauges.

 

So far today I fixed my drivers door switch for the dome light and installed LED corner light bulbs.

 

I also started converting my 92 to run the courtesy map lights and lit up sun visor mirrors. Pulled the map lights and mounting bracket from under the headliner out of my old 93 and marked and drilled it to fit in the 92. Also made a template out of the old headliner for the hole shape and stenciled that over to the headliner in the 92 and cut it out with a razor knife. Now I just need to run a 12v power wire up to the headliner to power the map lights and sun visor lights and I am done.

 

Can't wait to have proper front interior lighting again, didn't realize how much I used them until I didn't have them!

Edited by Nefarious
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Washed him up (4 hand washes and a pair of autos), shining like he's fresh off of the factory line. Damn car wash stole the "Pathfinder" strip off the back though!!!

Guy at the parts store was like "damn, that thing looks like its got a fresh coat of paint!" :laugh: Unfortunately, I know that sheen won't last long. :/

 

Was pricing around for O2 sensors, and everywhere was quoting me at like $85, but I swore a member here said I could get one for like $30 shipped. Anyone?

And I know you all hate on the cheap plugs, wires, caps and rotors, but the dude at AutoZone said I could get all that for $100 and that its guaranteed for life and to not to decrease gas mileage. So why not :shrug: I'm going back tomorrow after I change my oil to get the stuff. That only leaves ALL of my other fluids to change, brake job, new suspension all around, redo my timing belt, and a vacuum and I'll be set. Should be easy and cheap, right? ;)

 

 

 

Lifetime warranty, translated means you spend your lifetime replacing the parts. Lol

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Pretty much, just buy good quality parts, they will last forever. NGK plugs and wires (if your oem wires aren't arcing, they're fine). Cap and rotor I just buy from the parts store but that's only because they're fairly simple and it seems they're all made by 1 or 2 companies and just re boxed.

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Yeah sorry 194 is the type of bulb used to illuminate the dash gauges.

I did

So far today I fixed my drivers door switch for the dome light and installed LED corner light bulbs.

 

I also started converting my 92 to run the courtesy map lights and lit up sun visor mirrors. Pulled the map lights and mounting bracket from under the headliner out of my old 93 and marked and drilled it to fit in the 92. Also made a template out of the old headliner for the hole shape and stenciled that over to the headliner in the 92 and cut it out with a razor knife. Now I just need to run a 12v power wire up to the headliner to power the map lights and sun visor lights and I am done.

 

Can't wait to have proper front interior lighting again, didn't realize how much I used them until I didn't have them!

 

 

 

When I did my 88 I just tapped into the dome light

 

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Installed a headlight relay, ran and terminated all the HID conversion wiring.

 

Built a wiring harness with plugs to fit the lit sun visor mirrors and map lights. Ran a new fused 12v constant source of 16 gauge wire to feed the new lights and it will also serve to power all of my memory devices later on as well (gauges, etc).

 

I was thinking of tying in, but I wanted a nice heavy gauge constant 12v source for a bunch of things later on as well.

 

just need to install the actual HID bulbs themselves now and the conversion is complete.

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Today I continued to chase my battery light issue.

 

Replaced the 4 year old battery with 2 year old battery from the junkyard. So far it's holding onto voltage better than the previous one.

 

Replaced the alternator with a new Maxima one. It was supposed to be a V40 quest one, but I goofed on the bracket, and I didn't have access to a grinder/welder at that location. Ran a new 4ga cable from the alt + to the battery +.

 

New alt & air conditioner belts too. I tried to install the new PS belt but I could not for the life of me get it to stretch on to the last pulley.

 

All that and I still have a battery light lit up on the dash.

Edited by Harbinger
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Check your main ground cable that goes to the battery. Make sure it is attached well where it connects to the body and the engine. That caused a lot of issues on mine. Including the battery light being on randomly, and not at all when the key was on but engine off (bulb check)

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Today I cleaned my battery & alternator grounds. Also found that my "Meters" fuse was blown.

 

Disconnected the speedo wiring, and replaced the fuse. My battery light is now off, my rear defrost works again, and best of all, my blower motor powers up. I'll get around to checking the speedo wiring sometime this week.

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Got the lock/unlock part of my alarm install done. Works, but I didn't realize the 2-doors don't have actuators in the driver's door! :doh:

Come again?

 

Started it, ran it for 1/2 an hour with the doors open, heater/AC on and moved it back and forth a few times.

Harder than it sounded as the battery was @ 4.8 volts and my trickle charger would just tap out. Had to jumper it with a spare battery and then hook up the trickle charger to that until I had enough to crank.

Fired on the 4th rotation... :aok:

B

Time for a battery maintainer (110v or solar). The 110v unit I installed (and posted in here about) has been working perfectly :aok: On a side note, I put my solar one on the yota and so far so good.

You might remember that I put it away after the Pathy's battery failed not long after I started using it a year or two ago. Well seems that it was just coincidence and the battery was going to die anyway (even if it was a 6mo old gell cell)

 

After starting it I realized the alarm I installed auto locks the doors when the ignition is turned on and unlocks them when it's shut off. Not cool at all!

My aftermarket alarm does this as well, but it can be turned off. Mine also has a feature to help prevent lockouts, it won't lock the doors if a door is open when the truck is started. So you can start it with the door open, then get out and close the door and not have to worry about it auto-locking.

 

 

Mine had that feature, but you could disable it through the programming. It was in the manual for it.

This

 

Lowered my rack today.

Tends to happen with age ;)

 

every cold morning when I smell gas, I wonder if/when something like this will happen to me. One of these days I'll have to replace that damned little hose between the fuel rails. Glad (and assuming) you weren't hurt in the incident.

Says the pathfinder fire king :lol:
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Strange new mystery. My E-brake light stays on no matter what, but when the E-brake is actually pulled, the light gets marginally brighter. Any ideas? I checked what I think were all of the connections with an ohm-meter and no issues

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Today I pulled my ecu codes. It is throwing a 14, 33, and 34. The 14 is because my transfer case wiring is still disconnected so I can hunt for the short that was blowing my meters fuse. For the others, I'm looking to relocate my knock sensor, and replace my exhaust since it is rusted to crap. The o2 sensor will get replaced along with the whole kit and kaboodle.

 

Then installed a new battery tie down since my new battery is taller than the optima I had. For being a used battery it is holding up great. Was resting at 12.6 earlier today.

 

Then cleaned up the truck a bit, and put my storage tub full of spare fluids and tools back into the back, and lashed it down with a ratchet strap.

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Strange new mystery. My E-brake light stays on no matter what, but when the E-brake is actually pulled, the light gets marginally brighter. Any ideas? I checked what I think were all of the connections with an ohm-meter and no issues

almost sounds like another circuit has shorted into the e brake light circuit. When a light gets brighter it's usually because another 12v source is also powering the same device (fatter cross sectional area of conductor powering device). Like when your dome light gets brighter after a second door is opened. Worth checking for rubbed or cracked insulation along the wiring path. Otherwise I'm at a loss.

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