nunya Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 As I laid on the horn, it appeared to me how "polite" the stock horn sounds. I'm gonna get me a new (different) horn from the JY. I've heard that Caddy Deville horns sound nasty. I'm gonna get one of those! I got horns out of a fwd Olds 88 or 98 (i forget honestly). A bit more normal (but not as land yacht-ish as Caddy horns) and less "im sorry i was in YOUR way"-ish... I gave him a little hug and pep talk. Driving the service van all week is killing me (even though WhiteOwl IS pretty much stocked for general service calls)... Least it's saving my gas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModiFinder Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 New tires. After a lot of thinking I got the Duelers (revo 2) and they are awesome. I will put up pics laster this week. We are working on the suspension. Putting int the OME lift and new shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meandmy92Pathy Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 yesterday.....replaced the upper radiator hose and two gallons of coolant after the hose blew and left me and the wife on the side of the road in 110 degree heat....had to call the son to come rescue us...... today I am attacking the thermostat and replacing it!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chodygt Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 narrowed my coolant leak down to my water pump i think... painted my skid plate, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmyers23 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Going to look at 94 Pathy for motor and trans to rebuild this winter. Maybe next spring I'll have her running right again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Spray painted Bill Murray's head on the underside of the hood. It's a long story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 narrowed my coolant leak down to my water pump i think... painted my skid plate, Very nice, glad I didn't do that since mine is now Taco'd along with my FWD crossmember. Today I drove my truck and bumped into a few things to test the $36 bumper. Its springy like it needs better mounting. I guess having a ripped crosmember doesn't help the wimpy stock mounts stay rigid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 i can play this game. been working on my truck almost everyday lately for the last 2 months. yesterday i didnt get much done. i mounted my newly painted blue tow hooks, and i think they look great. i recently pulled another front tow hook from a scrapped Pathy so now i have 2. strange how they only give you 1 front tow hook from the factory... i mounted my new 3 gauge console (voltage, water temp, and oil pressure), and picked up all the wiring parts i needed, but have yet to wire it up yet. i recently painted my little IPF bull bar flat black, but yesterday when i went to re-install it, i realized it looks like crap now that my truck has a body lift. it sits way to low, and doesnt follow the contour of my truck. i think my front end looks better without it, and the little bull bar wouldnt do hardly anything for protection the way it sits after the body lift. really starting to think about adding a new beefy steel front bumper. either custom made or an ARB. I know they stopped making them for my truck, but i found a couple stores that still have a few in stock. but i want to mount a Mile Marker Hydraulic winch eventually, and i dont think it will fit on the ARB, without modification at least. and i think i should upgrade my steering before adding that much additional weight to my front end anyways. and i have a couple other big priority's, like a snorkel and Yakima cargo rack, that i'd rather have right now. my "to-do" list is actually seeming to get shorter, i've made a lot of progress lately. today i plan to start wiring my 3 gauge console, re-connect my factory horns because the after market Bosch horns that came on my truck are broken, pull off my old t-case shifter boots so i can "trace" out a new pattern with rubber, remove whats rest of my old running board brackets, and i want to pull my front L fender to see if i can tap out that dent so i dont have to source a new fender. gonna watch some you tube videos on the process. and i have an appointment to get an alignment next week. plus i'm in the middle of flushing all of my fluids, just waiting on some things to complete whats left, my tranny, t-case, front diff, and power steering. then my truck will have nice clean fluids all around! on a side note, i recently did an oil change a couple days ago, the first one i had done myself in a very long time, i had been taking it to a garage, and when i went to remove my old oil filter, the thing was cranked on there so hard i didnt know if i was gonna be able to get it off. I wasted about $50 on filter wrenchs, i broke 3 metal strap type wrenchs, and bought a couple more that wouldnt work on my truck because there's so little space to work with, and then i bought a pair of plier type oil filter wrench, and that finally worked, now i'm not letting anyone touch my truck unless i absolutely have to. and i think i may still install a oil filter re-location kit. after i did the body lift i thought i really dont need to re-locate my oil filter, but after having to wrestle this last filter off, i realize having more space to work would be a major benefit. (or just make sure you dont crank your oil filter on with 200lbs of force!). i'm also thinking of doing a seafoam treatment in my fuel filter to run through my fuel injectors. i'm not sure if they need a cleaning or not, but i figure it cant hurt since they probably havent been cleaned in 20 years. i dont think it can hurt anything. and i still want to pull my intake manifold to give it a good scrub. just waiting on a JDM parts order for my new intake manifold gasket... and thats just what i have planned for the near future. i'll be busy for a long while yet. and the upgrades will never stop! good luck with all the work guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) Went 100 on the freeway. First time I ever went 100, actually. I removed my rear bumper cover to paint it black - I had received it black primered, but just felt like throwing some plastic primer & paint over it. Maybe it was a bad idea, since so far it looks like the paint is uneven and there are light spots in places. I hope it looks better in the afternoon... I was hoping to paint the front bumper & fender flares black too if I had luck with painting the rear bumper. In addition I siphoned out the PSF reservoir and replaced it with some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Need to check the HOT level. There's also a giant (for Florida) amount of rust behind my driver's side taillight, from Maaco's work fixing my dent. I need to either have them fix it (would they?) or fix it myself with some sandpaper, primer, and 10 minutes of time. Edited August 6, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Depending how long it has been and how good they are they might cover it for you. For the bumper give it another couple light coats to hide the light spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) I sprayed some more paint on the bumper, looking more even. I think once this last coat dries it should be good enough. I did notice a couple sections of wrinkled/cracked looking paint on the driver's side upper section of the bumper... what happened there? How do I fix this? 2000 grit sandpaper and more paint? What about switching paint? I've looked into Krylon Fusion and have read good things about it, maybe switch to using that instead of the Duplicolor Trim paint? Amazon has flat black Krylon Fusion for $9.59/can with 2-day Prime shipping... Edited August 6, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrT Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Got a free car wash from Mother Nature... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Took my basket off to paint it. Got it sanded and primed. I also detailed the interior, my friend who borrowed it for a few days left the inside trashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 I fixed the damn ashtray LED bulb that keeps vibrating itself loose every few months. I tried bending the leads outwards to get a tighter grip in the socket, but it still comes loose eventually. Does anybody know a more permanent solution other than superglue (I'd like to be able to replace it if the LED fails)? I removed the masking tape around the step strip of my rear bumper. It looks like @!*%. I sprayed more, and now the paint is wrinkling. I'm switching to Krylon paint... but first, how the hell do I fix this wrinkling? It just peels off if I try to lightly sand it off. Luckily the rest of the bumper looks alright, it's just around the step strip where it's wrinkled and ugly - most of it is above the step strip where it'd only be visible if the tailgate is open. I can live with it, but is there an easy fix? I also added some ATF - seems that I'm a bit low, even though I checked after installing my trans cooler and the level looked fine. Perhaps I was improperly checking or some air worked its way out or something... must check later once the trans is hot and all the fluid has drained off the dipstick tube. I checked PSF and it's 1mm below the max "HOT" line so it's perfect until the next oil change (about 5.5k) where I'll do another siphon & fill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Pick a part: -hardbody manual hubs (hope they have the right number of splines and work properly) -hood cowl -rear window trim -ash tray -lego hub caps -door sill trim -antenna -4wd light switch -reverse lights switch -abs speed sensor (forgot my multimeter, so don't know if it works yet) -rear bumper end -throttle cable -cruise cable -fan + clutch -windshield trim -egr valve (2 for 1) -egr solenoid -seat belt -driver door armrest -rear taillight assembly -2 tow hooks -strange air tube that attaches to the air box and goes over the fan shroud... do I need this? -lower fan shroud piece -lots of little interior trim fasteners -probably some other stuff I forgot $250 Seems a bit steep, but I picked up a ton of junk. The hubs were $30 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Wrinkling is the paint reacting with itself. Sometimes it's from mixing brands/types (enamel, acrylic, lacquer), sometimes it's humidity, sometimes it's just Tuesday. Given long enough it'll harden enough to sand, or you can strip it and re-shoot. (I've had paint craze itself just because I shot it outside of the dry times on the can.) Also, that ^ is one hell of a jy haul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Unfortunately it looks like the hubs I picked up are 26 spline. So probably I'm just out $60. I guess that's why they were still there. Probably no-one will want these since they are only for really old hardbodies. I believe I can get the internal splined part I need from the dealer, but looks like $85 each at courtesy parts, so, more than mile markers. I guess if my auto hubs bust I might shell out for that though, since they are supposed to be stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Alright, I'll sand the wrinkles down tomorrow (should I use lower or higher grit? I think I have 500 and 2000 available here) and respray, hopefully won't wrinkle again... I'll make sure to clean after sanding too. I didn't mix any types of paint - I used Rustoleum plastic primer (except where I taped off the step strip obviously - maybe the paint doesn't like whatever plastic primer that came on the bumper originally?) then Duplicolor trim paint and the rest of the bumper looks fine. If only I could find flat black Krylon Fusion... maybe I'll go pick up a can of the glossy black crap at WM tomorrow and spray my old bumper to see if it's tolerable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Sewebster how did you remove the abs speed sensor? Did you have to remove the pinion nut from the rear end? I hear that sucker is tight and I need to change mine and the oil seal there. Towncivilian make sure you do like 3 or more light coats instead of fewer thick ones. I found that helped too. I was told by a body shop that you know when its cured when you can't make a mark with your finger nail in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Sewebster how did you remove the abs speed sensor? Did you have to remove the pinion nut from the rear end? I hear that sucker is tight and I need to change mine and the oil seal there. Yeah, you have to take the nut off. It's big... I forget the size, 30 mm? I brought my 3/4" drive ratchet and sockets and used that. I had to reinstall the e-brake lever on the junked truck and then used that to keep things from turning. Real brakes would work better, but they had been removed. The e-brake was barely enough to hold it. Impact would be better. After the nut was off we used a mini-sledge to knock the next flange thing off... it was really stuck on there. It contains the rotor for the sensor, so if you need that part (I can't see how it would break?) then you might want to take it easy... Then you just unbolt and remove the sensor. But I'm still wondering if you can change the actual sensor part itself without removing the ring it is mounted in. There isn't anything in the ring itself... the sensor just sticks through it and "looks" at the toothed rotor that is attached to the other flange. Doesn't help you change your oil seal though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 (edited) ...well, technically this was yesterday, but I arrived home late... Spent another $12.00 on her. Went to the Pick-a-part & got two of the Devils' Horns from a '74 Caddy. Edited August 8, 2011 by lint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 this morning i put in a new clutch master cyl after a month and a half of it leaking all over the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) Installed new TRE's (all 4, + the adjusters) and my new Grassroots CL last night. Combination of all those REALLY tightened up my steering! Also ordered up some Warn manual hubs, so I'll be able to throw her back together once those get in! Edited August 9, 2011 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmyers23 Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) I cleaned off the MAF. There was a little build up on the sensor itself. I was amazed how much better it ran. I also instaled a set of Nology hot wires. Next week I plan on putting on an Accel super coil. Edited August 9, 2011 by jwmyers23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 -strange air tube that attaches to the air box and goes over the fan shroud... do I need this? There are two pieces that run across the radiator. And it's not an air intake of any kind. I'm sure you see the pinched part? it's sealed right there. Basically it's just an intake silencer. Though I'm not 100% sure why they included a second piece that runs to the other side of the radiator... Yesterday, I replaced two of my used Rancho shock's bushings with factory OEM. The Rancho Poly was so brittle it broke apart from driving... and a trip to Elbe! I had been wondering what my new found rattle was from. Also tightened the exhaust clamps around my muffler delete pipe, it kinda fell off. Should be good now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now