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Camber Bolt Question


01silvapathy
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Okay so this may be a really stupid topic and question but I got some interesting info the other day. I took the truck to get an alignment at NTB the other day and the manager there was startled by the fact that I had two adjustment camber bolts in each strut. I told him that thats what the company who makes the kit calls for and it had not had alignment issues before. His whole arguement was that the bottom of the strut needs a pivot point and that the adjustable bolt does not allow for that. So I asked him if he thought that he could get it in alignment with what he had and he sad yes. So they took out the bottom bolts and put in stock ones, they got the alignment pretty decent but im going back to get it re done because he thought that he could get it better once the suspension had "settled" cause they took off the wheels and when you do that the suspension sags and puts the wheels at a weird angle. So I need to go back and get that fixed, ontop of a stud they had to cut off since they ceased on a lug nut and messed up the threads. My father was with me at the time and insisted the work was done then and there so I didnt really get a chance to argue it out.

 

This is the same guy who told me that the free wheel hubs dont stop the cv's and front ds from spinning :shiftyeyes:

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sounds like you need another shop.

Not to mention, free spinning hubs are called free spinning for a reason...

yeah the grease friction may cause the shafts to turn a little but at maybe 5% of your wheel speed at the very most.

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The bolt is rigid, you turn the bolt in the strut to adjust the camber and then tighten down the nut to keep it in place. Who ever said anything about ball joints? The only thing I was asking on is the number of adjustable camber bolts if it should be two or one in each strut...thats all.

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Two on each side if you have a suspension lift is what I have read. I got mine aligned right after the lift and they never said anything about that even though I clearly told the mechanic and manager that I had installed two new camber bolts on each side after he told me there would be an extra charge if they were rusted and they had to heat them with torches.

 

I brought the truck for another alignment after I removed one strut a few months later (as I had to fix something behind it) and while they said that everything was good and it only needed a very slight adjustment, they never said anything to the fact that I should only have one.

 

I put in two and haven't had any problems.

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The connection for the lower strut mount to the lower control arm should be rigid, so no rotation. I only have one bolt in on each side right now but I think I want to get another set as I am at the very limit of being within factory specs. I want to get as close to zero camber as possible. The ball joint guy was correct the ball joint is where the rotation in the front suspension comes from. The rigid nature of the struts lower mount is why they suck so bad. As the suspension articulates the camber curve is horrible. More advanced setups maintain the same camber through the entire articulation.

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I'm going to ignore your replies in this thread and start from the beginning, because I'm just that nice of a guy.

 

Here it is:

 

-The bolts do not affect articulation.

-Use as many camber bolts as you need to get proper camber. 0, 1, or 2.

-The "weird angle" of the tires is normal, and a big reason why strut suspensions are just not that good.

-Alignment should be performed with the vehicle at rest, with all weight on the tires. If it's being done any other way, never, ever go back to that shop.

 

It sounds like you're either getting ripped off, or the shop worker(s) are a special kind of stupid, or both.

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Yeah but even with adjustable camber bolts, the strut is still "rigid"

Somewhere in that paragraph i said that. There is only a rotation at the ball joint when the spring compresses or expands. No rotation at the lower strut mount (where the camber bolts are).

 

 

-The bolts do not affect articulation.

-Use as many camber bolts as you need to get proper camber. 0, 1, or 2.

-The "weird angle" of the tires is normal, and a big reason why strut suspensions are just not that good.

-Alignment should be performed with the vehicle at rest, with all weight on the tires. If it's being done any other way, never, ever go back to that shop.

 

It sounds like you're either getting ripped off, or the shop worker(s) are a special kind of stupid, or both.

:goodpost:

Edited by laxman0324
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I think where we got messed up was with rigid and articulation. The camber bolts dont affect articulation, but they do affect the angle of the spindle per say...which then affects the angle at which the tire contacts the ground.

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One thing to add to this messy thread (sheesh) is that you may even find it necessary to drill out the spindle a little to get to the correct camber your bolts could provide. I would suggest only drilling the top one from my own experience so that there is no chance for shifting after assembly.

 

I am shocked that you need 2 on each side honestly, I do not have an SFD but I didn't think that would change camber angle only the inital spring lift.

 

My shop drilled out the top of my spindle (not the strut) installed the bolts, invited me back to show me how and why and told me I would be able to adjust camber myself to avoid the shop rate for camber adjustment. Torquing the bolts is the final point to make, as that determines how long your camber stays straight...these are the kinds of places to get work done!

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