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Advice on changing to Mile Marker from Auto Hubs


DoctorBill
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I love my 4x4 Pathfinder !

 

But today the damned Nissan Auto-hubs screwed me over.

 

There was ice on the roads today like a skating Pond !

 

As I was leaving, I pulled up to an inclined stop light intersection at the College.

 

It was in 4x4, but apparently the Auto-Hubs went out of lock because

I couldn't move an inch ! Wheels spun, cars waiting behind me -

I was going nowhere !

 

I have studded Snow Tires on the Pathfinder !

 

Some nice young guy stepped out and pushed me until I got purchase

and could pull out into a right turn. Nice fellow !

 

So - my Mile Marker Manual Hubs have arrived a few days ago.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28766&view=findpost&p=548098

 

Would someone explain how I change them out or give a link showing what to do ?

 

Do I have to jack the vehicle up and remove the wheels ?

 

From the one page destructions included, it looks like I have to remove the old

Auto-Hubs and a plate they are screwed into - yes ?

 

The weather here in Spokane, WA is colder than a Witch's Hands and snowing

again.

 

Don't want to get started and then get stuck half way thru as I have to have

the 4x4 every day right now.

 

730b1e6737.jpg

 

DoctorBill

Edited by DoctorBill
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yes, you can do the hub swap without removing the wheel or jacking the truck up. You need to remove everything within the redlines in my pic below, if you have stock wheels with the center caps you will have to make the center holes bigger for the hub to fit thru pic below of my 94 with Warn manual hubs:

 

2h4ytcj.jpg

 

2mewz7m.jpg

Edited by ahardb0dy
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I follow your posting.

 

Is what Mile Marker shows in their Instruction sheet under "REMOVE PARTS SHOWN" wrong, then ?

 

d8a2383cd8.jpg

 

What is that "Drive Flange" plate in the upper part of the diagram ?

 

I don't see that in your diagram, ahardb0dy.

 

This is what has me confused.

 

DoctorBill

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That instruction sheet does not look like it is specific to the Nissan, Just remove the parts I outlined and you will be fine.

You will need to remove the 6 allen head bolts that secure the auto hub, than take the outer part of the auto hub off, once off wipe off the grease you will probably find so you can see the "C" clip, remove the clip with snap ring pliers, once the clip is removed, removed the 2 washers and the inner part of the hub clutch, you should now be able to see the lock ring with the phillips head screw securing it, that is all you remove, to install the new hub, thread in the new studs with lock tite on the threads, place the new manual hub body over the axle shaft splines,re-install the "C" clip onto the splined axle shaft but you will now use the outer groove in the end of the axle ( not the inner groove that the clip was originally in), secure the hub body with the new nuts and washers, install the outer hub into the hub body and secure with the new allen head screws.

 

I jacked my truck up when I was done just to verify the hubs worked, that would be up to you to do.

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What page of the FSM was your posted diagram from ?

 

Did your six Allen-Head bolts come out easily ?

 

I'd like to put Permatex Anti-Seize Grease on the new bolt threads

so I can get them out later on w/o them breaking off.

 

I'd just have to watch them for a while making sure they don't

come loose...

 

DoctorBill

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What is that "Drive Flange" plate in the upper part of the diagram ?

The R50s have a drive flange, I removed it to mount the Mile Markers on my wife's 1999.0 Pathfinder.

 

As was said, the sheet that comes with the hubs has general prints. His instructions are correct. Probably your biggest consideration is if the new hubs fit through the stock rims.

 

B

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thanks, was hoping everything I said was correct !! LOL

 

that diagram was taken from the 1995 FSM, FA (front axle) section, page FA-16

 

one of my allen head bolts wouldn't come out, but it was when I was checking the wheel bearings, I ended up having to cut the head off using a Dremel, so after that the bolts all came out easy when I replaced the hubs.

 

I got my Warn hubs used from a truck at the junkyard so half of the studs were used and the other half I bought from Ace Hardware, was surprised they even had them in stock, I did not use any locktight on mine, wanted to make sure everything worked ok before doing so.

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The weather is so Gawd Awful right now, I don't even want to run the Garbage

cans out to the end of the driveway !

 

Every so often, I give the bolts on the Auto-Hubs a squirt of KROIL hoping it

loosens the bolt threads.

 

Maybe if I do that every few days, it will get in there ! Probably not.

 

Lord is it nice to have 4x4 in this weather here in Eastern Washington !

 

Gotta love 4x4 !

 

The Doofuses in Western Washington, where it hardly ever snows want to outlaw

studded snow tires....Liberals !

 

DoctorBill

Edited by DoctorBill
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if you can when you go to remove the allen head bolts, it would be better to use one of these:

 

5yudjm.jpg

 

 

than a regular allen key, I would suggest putting the allen part in the head of the bolt and tapping it all thee way in with a hammer than put a rachet on it and try to turn it, if you use a regular allen wrench and it doesn't turn you could strip out the head of the bolt.

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ahardb0dy -

 

I don't follow you...I have a set of those (metric and English).

 

They are allen head wrenches that fit a rachet driver...(?)

 

Yes - tap them into the bolt head all the way.

 

I'll try for hand loosening first with a 3/8 rachet handle.

 

If they won't move, then -

 

What I want to do is tap on them for a while (vibration) and then use

my air driven rachet driver to loosen them (again vibration)...

maybe my air hammer I use to loosen wheel lug nuts - at low pressure

to make more vibration than torque....

 

Actually, what I may do is have 'my mechanic' I use do the job inside

his shop (NAPA) so that if one or more breaks off, he can get them out.

 

Right now it is worth paying him versus me squatting in the rain, snow

and wind doing myself.

 

I'm too old and chrotchety for that rubbish.

 

DoctorBill

Edited by DoctorBill
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Mine appear to work fine backing up, but I THINK they go out of lock then re-lock

as you back more.

 

What appeared to happen to me is that on a hill waiting for a light to change on

an icy road, they went out of lock (when I rolled back a few inches ?) and left me

in 2 wheel when I needed to go forward.

 

I may be wrong.

 

But I want to put on regular locking hubs so they are always locked while I have the

shift lever in 4x4.

 

DoctorBill

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  • 4 weeks later...

Mine appear to work fine backing up, but I THINK they go out of lock then re-lock

as you back more.

 

What appeared to happen to me is that on a hill waiting for a light to change on

an icy road, they went out of lock (when I rolled back a few inches ?) and left me

in 2 wheel when I needed to go forward.

 

I may be wrong.

 

But I want to put on regular locking hubs so they are always locked while I have the

shift lever in 4x4.

 

DoctorBill

 

 

This is interesting....They are designed to unlock when you move in reverse, however was the original design to remain locked (even when in reverse) while the truck is in 4wd?

 

Zack

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