Front and Rear Main Seal

[TexasPthFnder95]

I've been patching my front and rear main seals with stop leak for months now im ready to just do the complete repair timing belt water pump front and rear main seals everything. Has anyone tackled the front and rear main seal job yet? Repair time estimations or some hints on doing it

[ZombeeXXX]

I've been patching my front and rear main seals with stop leak for months now im ready to just do the complete repair timing belt water pump front and rear main seals everything. Has anyone tackled the front and rear main seal job yet? Repair time estimations or some hints on doing it

 

Well for the front seal, I'd look to the garage section for the timing belt writeup as you'll need the belt and pulleys off anyway. Good time to do thermostat and bypass hose as well as the cam's seals. For the rear it's a bit more involved, as the tranny needs to be removed as well as the flywheel. The rear seal rides in a carrier which bolts to the block so once you get to it, it's a simple change. You may also want to look for the rubber carrier to pan seal. This is kind of a wedge shaped rubber seal that attaches to the exterior edge of the carrier. I didn't do mine but it would be cheap insurance while you're there.

[unccpathfinder]

Front and rear seals suck...the rear can be done without dropping the pan I think the front u have to drop the pan which is really involved

[TerranoNZ]

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16428&st=40

 

Last post on that page

 

I'm getting really got at removing the engine

 

Good luck.

[JamesRich]

If you have oil leaks from both sides it might be more than just those two seals. I would pull the motor out and reseal the whole thing. It's alot easier to change all the seals and gaskets with the motor out.

James

[andreus009]

I did all the front seals (crank and 2 cam shaft seals) the last time I did the timing belt. No dropping the pan was required for this on my 95. Having a seal pulling tool helps, but it can be done with screw drivers (at least I've been told) Always be cautious of scratching the shafts when you are doing this.

 

Loosening and tightening the cam sprockets can be a bit tricky. I think the FSM tells you stick screwdriver through the one of the holes in the sprocket and wedge against the metal plate behind to keep the sprocket from turning. The metal plate behind isn't all that thick so it distorted when I did the first one. I later figured out a trick with two socket wrenches. One socket just fit in one of the holes cam sprocket with the arm of this wrench coming across the socket that was on the cam sprocket bolt. This way you counter turn both wrenches and apply good torque to socket on cam sprocket bolt. Wish I had a picture.

 

As far as I know the only way to get to the rear main seal is to pull the tranny.

[JamesRich]

I did all the front seals (crank and 2 cam shaft seals) the last time I did the timing belt. No dropping the pan was required for this on my 95. Having a seal pulling tool helps, but it can be done with screw drivers (at least I've been told) Always be cautious of scratching the shafts when you are doing this.

 

Loosening and tightening the cam sprockets can be a bit tricky. I think the FSM tells you stick screwdriver through the one of the holes in the sprocket and wedge against the metal plate behind to keep the sprocket from turning. The metal plate behind isn't all that thick so it distorted when I did the first one. I later figured out a trick with two socket wrenches. One socket just fit in one of the holes cam sprocket with the arm of this wrench coming across the socket that was on the cam sprocket bolt. This way you counter turn both wrenches and apply good torque to socket on cam sprocket bolt. Wish I had a picture.

 

As far as I know the only way to get to the rear main seal is to pull the tranny.

For removing a seal like the cam or front crank I drill a small hole in the face of the seal and use a small auto body slide hammer dent puller to pop the seal out. Just be careful when drilling the seal that the bit doesn't walk and hit the sealing surface.

As for loosening and tightening the cam gears, do it with the belt still on.

James

[Precise1]

When changing the front seal (as was said, no pan interference) use a small wood dowel (unsharpened pencil) and gently tap the seal slightly inward first to break it loose first, then it will pull out easily (I used a hooked pick). To install the new one wipe everything down (I cleaned with alcohol) and apply a light film of engine oil on seal/surfaces. Cut a 4x4" (aprox) piece of plastic out of a plastic container and wrap it around the cam seal diameter, then slide the seal over the plastic and onto the crank seal diameter and gently tap in place with the wood dowel. This will keep you from damaging the inside of the seal on the square shoulder of the crank and keep things cleaner. It is really straightforward once you get there and I HIGHLY recommend using wood; we all goof sometimes and that is not where I would want to slip with a screw driver or whatnot.

 

B