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Prepping for treading water


aranay
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So I have a 91 4dr SE and I was curious about doing an ECU relocation. Is there a favoured method for doing this? I remember something about relocating the ECU to behind the glovebox but what do you do about lengthening the harness?

Also wondering if anyone had any ideas on simple mods to the airbox/intake plumbing. I really don't want to get into doing a typical snorkle kit but if I can change where it breaths to a higher place then I'm interested. (sorry I'm pretty tired so I really don't know if this post makes any sense whatsoever). :coffee!:

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some people have had success with placing the ecu in the glovebox without extending any wires. others have sealed the ecu in a plastic tupperware container and siliconed it shut.

 

as far as plumbing - have you seen where the intake/airbox is? you cant get it any higher without putting a snorkel device in.

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as far as plumbing - have you seen where the intake/airbox is? you cant get it any higher without putting a snorkel device in.

 

Yes I'm familiar with its location but I thought maybe someone had moved the intake plumbing up to near the firewall up high or something of that nature.

Maybe I'll fab something up to pull air from another location and see if it works.

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Where the air box enters the inner guard, it has a section that goes up inside the inner guard to almost the firewall area. There is no other way of modding it short of getting/making a snorkel.

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I think the ECU needs to go in the glove box, not behind it. I can't see any way you could fit a computer back there without removing/moving something. :shrug: The harness comes from the firewall and to the passenger seat, all you'd need to do is pull the wiring from under the carpet and move it up under the dash. If anything at all, wires would need to be shortened.

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I think the ECU needs to go in the glove box, not behind it. I can't see any way you could fit a computer back there without removing/moving something. :shrug: The harness comes from the firewall and to the passenger seat, all you'd need to do is pull the wiring from under the carpet and move it up under the dash. If anything at all, wires would need to be shortened.

You know all about the ECU and it's wiring now! Probably more than you wanted to know. :D

James

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you could throw a tarp over the hood like the aussies do. It works really well for keeping the water from splashing under the hood. Of course this does nothing if you don't have gap guards in your wheel wells.

 

If you are going to wheel in a place that has a lot of muddy water crossings, i would get/make a snorkel. The tarp won't really help you if you get stuck in the middle of a water hole and lose your bow wave; neither will an airbox mod if you happen to dip the drivers front wheel in a deep rut submerging the headlight.

 

Extend the breathers for your differentials to inside the cab, silicone around the distributor cap, manual hub dials, dielectric grease in all the spark plug wires. There is also a breather on the starter motor that you should extend to keep the water out of that too.

 

Make sure your door seals are in good shape and you have no rust holes in the floor. It will slow the water spilling into the cab.

 

Have a tow strap and recovery vehicle ready in case you don't make it all the way across and stall. If you can quickly retrive a stalled truck, it will minimize how much water you get inside. Once it's in there, it takes forever to dry out and instantly ruins your interior. I would get rid of the carpet and hope your leather seats don't get wet. Drill a hole in the lowest point of the floor boards and put a plug in there to drain them if they happen to fill up.

 

I like how the russians fasten all the electronics (comms. radio, ecu) to the cabin roof to keep them dry, they really aren't shy when it comes to the deep stuff.

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Search for a write up by MY1PATH, he made a psudo snorkel that is hidden inside the fender and the intake is up by the firewall. It should be quite effective...

well, I never did a writeup on it but I did chime in with some pictures here http://npora.ipbhost...ndpost&p=490795

gets louder on the inside and outside with the driver door open. Theoretically longer (smooth) intake tubing offers 1/2 MPG gain but I havn't seen anything conclusive yet. Oh and its a great help on those steep aproach angles to moderate water as the nose can fully sumerge before it levels out.

silicone around the distributor cap,

The dizy has breather in the cap and a drains in the bottom. Depending on RPM and Ign current plugging these may or may not cause the air inside to become superheated thus causing arcing of points and misfire. This warning is clearly persribed in MSD manuals but can apply to some stock systems. Edited by MY1PATH
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silicone around the distributor cap

I read where several people mention this. From what I've heard when the distributer gets wet it's not water getting inside the distributor that causes the problem. When cold water hits the hot distributor cap, it causes condensation inside. The condensation forms along the top of the inside of the cap and diverts the spark from going where it's supposed to go.

This is what I've heard, I never tried putting silicon on the cap. All I remember is if I hit water on the road going to fast, I'm usually screwed.

James

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I read where several people mention this. From what I've heard when the distributer gets wet it's not water getting inside the distributor that causes the problem. When cold water hits the hot distributor cap, it causes condensation inside. The condensation forms along the top of the inside of the cap and diverts the spark from going where it's supposed to go.

This is what I've heard, I never tried putting silicon on the cap. All I remember is if I hit water on the road going to fast, I'm usually screwed.

James

 

Hmm that makes a lot more sense. If so, then a simple splash shroud around the distributor would do more than anything.

 

A lot of great info here! Thanks

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Also, an old dune buggy trick is to keep a can of WD-40 handy. When the engine stutters or drowns out due to wet ignition components, just give it a few strategic shots of the stuff and drive off... ;)

 

B

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Also, an old dune buggy trick is to keep a can of WD-40 handy. When the engine stutters or drowns out due to wet ignition components, just give it a few strategic shots of the stuff and drive off... ;)

 

B

 

Seems likely, that was wd-40's intended purpose, dispersing water and whatnot.

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you can also put vasoline around the distributor cap and any wiring plugs like those for headlights.

 

I seen an old military trick where before fording deep water, you loosen the belt tensioner for the rad fan. this prevents it from splashing water over your distributor and engine. i dont know how easy this would be on our rigs. just thought id throw that out there.

CAUTION!! make sure the engine is shut OFF when loosening and re-tightening the belt-tensioner.

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The dizy has breather in the cap and a drains in the bottom. Depending on RPM and Ign current plugging these may or may not cause the air inside to become superheated thus causing arcing of points and misfire. This warning is clearly persribed in MSD manuals but can apply to some stock systems.

you can also put vasoline around the distributor cap and any wiring plugs like those for headlights.

 

I seen an old military trick where before fording deep water, you loosen the belt tensioner for the rad fan....

 

E-fans work great too....

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FWIW,

I put my ECU in the glove box. had to extend 1 ground wire. the other coils up or loops back up in the passengers kick panel.

as far as behind the glove box, I have seen it done.. Mr. Packie88 did it. (RIP) i asked him about it getting hot and he said it didn't.

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Also, an old dune buggy trick is to keep a can of WD-40 handy. When the engine stutters or drowns out due to wet ignition components, just give it a few strategic shots of the stuff and drive off... ;)

 

B

X2

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