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Photo of Bad Ignition Switch?


keithb7
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I am experiencing the intermittent start problem with my 1993 V6 pathy. This is a Canadian model wo we don't have an interlock relay. I have replaced the starter with a new rebuilt, and also a new battery. Battery was negligable so I don't remind replacing it with new anyway. The problem is still persistant. I also swapped around the ignition relay with the accesory relay top see if there was any difference. There was not. I decided to go into the ignition switch. It appears to me the contacts are wearing. Attached here is a photo of 1/2 of the ignition switch. Both it, and the other half are well worn. I plan to replace the ignition switch and see what happens. Will let you know. Just for the sake of having this one file for others to see and possibly learn from, here is a photo of my iginition switch. Looks pretty worn to me. A point to mention is, the switch seems to be non-serviceable and is not supposed to come apart. I pried it apart to have a look inside. - Keith

 

DSCF3241.JPG

Edited by keithb7
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Ouch, definitely looks worn. I think it's considered illegal tampering to tear apart the ignition systems, which is why a lot of those units are sealed.

 

I took it apart so we could all see the wear and share it on here. I replaced the ognition switch today, and the intermittent starting problem is not solved.

New starter, new battery and new ignition switch. Into it for about $500 now and still no fix. Pretty frustrating. I cannot seem to locate which relay

is the starter relay, I'd probably try changing that if I knew which one it was. I have tried to find it in the Haynes Manual as well as the factory service manual, still unable to locate it. I tried pulling the main relay, the check relay, ignition , and accessory relay one at a time, and still the starter will crank over, so I figure I have not found it yet. Anyone know which one it is?

Edited by keithb7
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I took it apart so we could all see the wear and share it on here. I replaced the ognition switch today, and the intermittent starting problem is not solved.

New starter, new battery and new ignition switch. Into it for about $500 now and still no fix. Pretty frustrating. I cannot seem to locate which relay

is the starter relay, I'd probably try changing that if I knew which one it was. I have tried to find it in the Haynes Manual as well as the factory service manual, still unable to locate it. I tried pulling the main relay, the check relay, ignition , and accessory relay one at a time, and still the starter will crank over, so I figure I have not found it yet. Anyone know which one it is?

 

 

similar issue with my 1990 5 speed SE here....but its seems to be a lose or shorting out ignition wire under my dash....moved them around some...truck started....ran fine. This morning, no start again....so now I have the fun of looking for screwy wiring to see what the deal is....not that I am familiar with this ignition stuff. D'ohh.

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If the ignition switch is going bad, could it still partially operate? as in, cut on all the dash lights and stereo and such, but NOT send a signal to the starter?

 

Nothing seems wrong with my wiring, yet when key is turned, everything seems to act normally but no current is sent to the starter.

 

1990 se..so I wouldn't be surprised if the ignition switch is suspect.....but I don't know how to test it.

 

thanks, Chris

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If the ignition switch is going bad, could it still partially operate? as in, cut on all the dash lights and stereo and such, but NOT send a signal to the starter?

 

Nothing seems wrong with my wiring, yet when key is turned, everything seems to act normally but no current is sent to the starter.

 

1990 se..so I wouldn't be surprised if the ignition switch is suspect.....but I don't know how to test it.

 

thanks, Chris

 

You could test it by taking the steering column console off, and exposing the wires on the ignition switch, and testing it with a multi-meter. An aftermarket ignition swith is

reasonably, priced and easy to change. If you suspect it, just order one from your local Pep-Boys or NAPA dealer and install it. Probably cost you about $35. Wiring problems

can show a whole bunch of wacky symptoms, including your problem. There is a black wire with a yellow stripe from the ignition switch, that can be again found at a connection

down beside the battery box. It goes from there into plastic loom, and travels along side the positive battery wire to the starter. You could check and see if a 12V signal is being sent when the ignition switch is turned. Could check it at the switch, at the connection near the battery box, and as well at the starter. You should have 12V at all points when

the key is turned. I am not 100% sure, but I believe this 12V kicks in a built in relay on the starter, wich allows full amperage from the battery to turn the starter.

 

I think I have narrowed down my problem to several corroded areas in the starting system. Including the ignition switch as shown above. I the negative battery cable is getting stiff and quite corroded inside, all this adds up to resistance and the starter needs all the amps your battery can give it.

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any ideas what the "Ignition Control Module" does? its the small grey colored sensor looking thing that is typically mounted on the side of the intake plenum, behind the Ignition Coil.

 

ah I found an answer.... The "brain" of the ignition system, the Ignition control module controls the ignition timing and strength, as directed by the main computer. It can be located in a variety of places, but it can normally be found underneath the hood.

 

also called the "ignitor" according to what I read wiki answers.

Edited by Chriskaw440
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FIXED!

 

with the help of my neighbor that is very knowledgeable with cars...we determined it was a fault somewhere along the line with the "black with yellow stripe" wire which leads from the ignition

switch all the way to the starter. So rather that try to yank all that wire out of the car to find the problem spot, we just disconnected it and by-passed it with a new wire.

 

Somehow this also disabled the clutch interlock switch (so it now starts even if the clutch is not depressed) but oh well. I'm not worried about that.

 

It also leads us to speculate that the problem may have been with the clutch interlock switch itsself but maybe I'll look into that another day. For now, it starts and I'm happy

I didn't run out and buy a new ignition switch or starter.

 

-Chris

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UPDATE: well ok maybe jumped the gun too soon....it ran fine UNTIL I test drove it this morning....after going about .5 miles, the idle jumped to just over 3,0000 rpm and now wants to stay there.

 

out of gear, the engine is racing over 3,000 rpm and when in gear, its still running high as I can feel it pulling the truck along with out giving it any gas.

 

Could this be caused by bypassing the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal somehow? neutral switch?

 

 

Ok the fast idle was apparantly caused by the TPS. After resetting it the idle has pretty much returned to normal. Apparently after disconnecting the battery to replace the negative post clamp, it, or the ecu maybe, had to relearn its parameters. I tried the 'key on - hold gas pedal down for 5 sec...release...hold down...release...over and over a few times, then key off....wait....start engine. Idle was up and down for a few moments and then settled down to normal idle speed.

Edited by Chriskaw440
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  • 5 years later...

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