Removing Parking Brake

[unccpathfinder]

Alright...heres my problem...I wheel my rig more than I drive it on a daily basis now...one of my big problems is that while offroad even with park brake cables adjusted to full loose they grab the drums...basically when i'm parked flat it doesn't engage at all...my thought since I had to pull my locker again the other night was to convert to rear disks and remove the parking brake all together and install some line locks as my park brake...

 

Also if anyone has info on converting the rear axle to disk brakes it'd be appreciated...I think I just need the shafts and calipers along with their mounting brackets for the calipers...I think I will have to keep the drums in place but just remove the shoes and internals

[MY1PATH]

I rear disc Is a very easy swap if you have a donor,(finding one can be hard)

you can keep your e-brake, you just need to put spacer blocks on the brackets mounted to the body so they have more slack when your axle drops.

OR

better yet, since you are pulling axles, swap left for right when you put them back in (cables will need to stay on their respective sides) then the parking brake cable will run to the top side of the axle instead of the bottom side. this takes them higher off the ground and gives you all the room you need for axle drop.

 

 

[unccpathfinder]

I'm really worried about snagging the cables...i've already done it twice...and I have a feeling i'm going to be pulling the axle a couple more times with my arb and the disks make it a lot easier...I dont have to bleed the brakes...Theres 2 you pull it lots close to me...i'll keep an eye out if i can

[jj big shoe]

You could rig the cables so they're pulled (or better, released) by a heavy duty solenoid like you'd use for a door popper.

http://www.a1electric.com/images8/pop-a2-500.jpg

You could mount the solenoid right on the axle. That way your cables would run along the top and have no chance of binding or getting snagged. Drop the power leads at the diff and use a long lightweight spring to keep the slack from flopping around or inside a tube mounted from the driveshaft hoop to the pumpkin.

Edited September 18, 2010 by jj big shoe

[MY1PATH]

You could rig the cables so they're pulled (or better, released) by a heavy duty solenoid like you'd use for a door popper.

http://www.a1electri.../pop-a2-500.jpg

You could mount the solenoid right on the axle. That way your cables would run along the top and have no chance of binding or getting snagged. Drop the power leads at the diff and use a long lightweight spring to keep the slack from flopping around or inside a tube mounted from the driveshaft hoop to the pumpkin.

 

 

Um a line lock on the rear line goin down the frame would be much easier.

I'm really worried about snagging the cables...

I'm tellin ya, flip left and right axles and the cables will be much less snag ready but then again a line lock would be snag proof.

[Cuong Nguyen]

I cannot recall what exactly I did for the parking brake cables when I converted to disks. I think I might have used the donor parking brakes as I had a hell of a time trying to reattach them to the brakes.

Edited September 18, 2010 by Cuong Nguyen

[jj big shoe]

Um a line lock on the rear line goin down the frame would be much easier.

Line locks hold hydro fluid flow. Parking brake is cable.

Line locks are also electrically powered. If left active while the ignition is off it'll drain the battery. That's why I suggested making a system (admittedly wierd and prolly a bit complex) that would be active when the power is off.

Best thing is probably your axle swap suggestion, but I like the idea of building strange stuff. I'm still thinking about hydraulic sway bar disco's.

[MY1PATH]

Line locks hold hydro fluid flow. Parking brake is cable.

Line locks are also electrically powered. If left active while the ignition is off it'll drain the battery. That's why I suggested making a system (admittedly wierd and prolly a bit complex) that would be active when the power is off.

Best thing is probably your axle swap suggestion, but I like the idea of building strange stuff. I'm still thinking about hydraulic sway bar disco's.

 

I know exactly what a line lock is!!! and is there not a hydraluic brake LINE that runs down the frame!?!?!?!

hence why it would be easier and less cluttersome because you are tapping into the fluid line before it goes to the axle thus eliminating 2 cables and adding nothing to the rear axle

also a good line lock can be run off a battery for over a month before the battery dies and the rig goes rolling down hill.

[unccpathfinder]

I could use a soli kid that is normally closed and will be energized when I flip the switch which is most likely when the truck is on...then no battery Parasidic when the truck is parked...only issues with normally closed is if I loose power and then the state of the brakes can't cwhange....but that's like a big rig loosing his air and the brakes without air engage...

[MY1PATH]

I could use a soli kid that is normally closed and will be energized when I flip the switch which is most likely when the truck is on...then no battery Parasidic when the truck is parked...only issues with normally closed is if I loose power and then the state of the brakes can't cwhange....but that's like a big rig loosing his air and the brakes without air engage...

 

 

don't some line locks include a one-way bypass so you can increase braking foce after the lock has been activated?

[jj big shoe]

^^That's what I was thinking. Perhaps something where one soli would throw it into a locked position and another would release it. Haven't thought much about a good way to do that either, but it would eliminate the hazard of losing power and locking your rear brakes up while driving.

 

I know exactly what a line lock is!!!

Dude, lighten up. We're just kicking ideas around here. No need to get bent. I even gave you props for your axle swap idea.

The only prob I saw with the line lock way was the constant draw. If it wouldn't sap the batt and if the system was stout enough for extended use (not just a few seconds at the starting line) it sounds like a good idea.

[MY1PATH]

yeh dude I was bent b4 I posted. sometimes it spills on the keyboard.

I got may axle sawp idea from nissan nut and it works he went a step farther to cut & welded the baffle so the caliper is up top.

I guess he was backing onto rocks and smacking it

[jj big shoe]

No harm done, thanks for the reply post.