JamesRich Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 I ordered some amsoil GL4 and got a quart of Lucas, then tried to remove the drain plug on the transmission. Some butt head must have used a 5 foot cheater pipe to tighten it up! The ratchet drive just twisted out. I tried turning it with a chisel but thats just cutting pieces off without budging the plug. Today I plan on getting some of those stubby extractors and hoping that will get it out. Has anyone had this problem, and how did you get it out? I can't believe a simple operation like just draining the oil can get screwed up this bad and will probably take days to complete. This truck gives me hell on everything I do to it. If everything I worked on gave me this much trouble I would have quit doing mechanic work a long time ago. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Is it the 1/2" square drive pipe thread type 'set screw' plug? If so, they have a tendancy to be a biatch to loosen. Don't mess around with it, go straight to the breaker bar, that's what I had to use to get it to budge and remember, righty tighty-leftie loosie... Also when assembling, give it one wrap of teflon tape but do not overlap the first thread or two so nothing is hanging inside the case. You won't have to torque it too much to seal it and it will come loose a lot easier next time. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Counter-clockwise to loosen but not always... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Hard to find these days but a 13mm square drive fits in there real snug compared to a 1/2" driver for a socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 If you've already buggered it up you can weld in a 1/2" socket extension into the plug and then back it out with a breaker. I had to do this the last time I changed transmission juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share Posted September 9, 2010 Already been there and done all that! I was basically standing on the frame pulling on a big ratchet when it just twisted out. I tried welding a bolt in the plug but I'm scare to get to close and burn thru the plug threads and really lock it in there, so my weld didn't penetrate the plug and broke loose. Now I'm thinking about drilling the plug out and tapping it for a regular pipe thread. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 nope dont drill and tap get better at welding or get someone who can do not drill u will be in a mess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Weld it good...plug is steel....transmission is aluminum...let it cool and go for it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Weld it good...plug is steel....transmission is aluminum...let it cool and go for it that plug is definitely not steel. It's WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too soft to be steal. I had this exact same problem. The plug is tightened that much from the factory. Nobody could have tightened it that much on their own without leaving serious marks. Mine WAS perfect before I ruined it. The factory must put the plugs in when everything was still hot from being manufactured. I think they do this with most of the stuff. For example, the exhaust manifold studs. How would you get those studs in there without leaving marks? The thing that boils my piss is that the transmission drain plug is the ONLY plug that's torqued down like that. The drain/fill plugs for the rear diff, no prob. The drain/fill plugs for the front diff, a cinch. The drain/fill plugs for the t-case, even the weakest of 1/2 drives could have gotten those out. The fill plug for the M/T, easiest thing ever. Drain plug for the M/T...hardest thing ever. My plug is the definition of rounded. except for drilling it, there's no way it's coming out. I don't see why drilling it wouldn't work. Drill it, then use an easy out. If the easy out breaks, then you just made yourself a new plug. I don't see a downside. Edited January 5, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 UNCC is right, it's steel. Both of us know steel, it's what we do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 The plug IS steel. That's why you can weld to it. The transmission plug is harder to remove becuase of dissimilar metal corrosion due to the transmission casing being aluminum. Exhaust manifold studs come out with ease. The only time they don't, again, is when there's dissimilar metal corrosion due to the heads being aluminum. Check your facts before spouting off. You're simply wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 The plug is tightened that much from the factory. Nobody could have tightened it that much on their own without leaving serious marks. Mine WAS perfect before I ruined it. They used the proper tool for the job, which is not a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Harborfreight has a kit with the 13mm square drive....search for drain plug socket on HF. Kit is reasonably priced, especially with coupon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) The plug IS steel. That's why you can weld to it. The transmission plug is harder to remove becuase of dissimilar metal corrosion due to the transmission casing being aluminum. Exhaust manifold studs come out with ease. The only time they don't, again, is when there's dissimilar metal corrosion due to the heads being aluminum. Check your facts before spouting off. You're simply wrong. I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. So what about the fill plug? I'm not even going to ask about the differentials because those are probably steel. Why would the drain plug be hard to get out because of the "dissimilar metal corrosion", but not the fill plug? What about the t-case? They used the proper tool for the job, which is not a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar. That's not even a claim you can make. ^^^^^ Edit: I didn't mean Nissan. I meant people who own the trucks. I thought he meant "they used the proper tools" to remove the plugs. OF COURSE Nissan used the proper tool to originally install the plugs. Edited January 6, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) That's not even a claim you can make. wat Why wouldn't the factory use 13mm square drive sockets with whatever tool they used to tighten it and tighten it to the torque spec? Why would they risk damaging the plug? The plugs seem tighter than 36 ft/lbs or whatever because of potential dissimilar metal corrosion and who knows how many heating/cooling cycles the plug has gone through. Most of the time a 1/2" square drive tool won't loosen the plug in question without heat applied. You've experienced that obviously, and I have too when attempting to remove my rear diff fill plug - the plug just started deforming and wasn't budging. Get this and use one of their 20% off any single item coupons (in those coupon booklets you get in the mail) and it'll be $13.60 before tax. Cheaper than a new drain plug or having somebody remove it for you. Edited January 5, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. So what about the fill plug? I'm not even going to ask about the differentials because those are probably steel. Why would the drain plug be hard to get out because of the "dissimilar metal corrosion", but not the fill plug? What about the t-case? That's not even a claim you can make. As stated a few times, the plug IS steel and yes of all places the factory is going to use the correct tool to install something. To think there's some random idiot just standing there on the assembly line with a 1/2" impact jamming the plugs in until the gun stops or something is just ignorant. The transmission drain plug is the most exposed to the elements of all the steel-in-aluminum plugs so it is generally going to be the first and worst to get corroded in the good and hard, add to the fact the general population don't get their oil changed regularly let alone care about the fluid in the transmission but odds are it gets checked WAY more than it gets drained so the fill plug will break free before the drain plug. as Simon stated, please do some homework and check facts before you go spouting out incorrect info everywhere then getting mad that it's wrong (there are a lot more members here that are IN the automotive field day in day out than you would think, and are outside just the Nissan world as well) and remember from the guidelines: If you do not know the answer, you don't have to answer. There is no shame in not knowing an answer, but if you misinform people it can hurt us all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) that plug is definitely not steel. It's WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too soft to be steal. I had this exact same problem. The plug is tightened that much from the factory. Nobody could have tightened it that much on their own without leaving serious marks. Mine WAS perfect before I ruined it. The factory must put the plugs in when everything was still hot from being manufactured. I think they do this with most of the stuff. For example, the exhaust manifold studs. How would you get those studs in there without leaving marks? The thing that boils my piss is that the transmission drain plug is the ONLY plug that's torqued down like that. The drain/fill plugs for the rear diff, no prob. The drain/fill plugs for the front diff, a cinch. The drain/fill plugs for the t-case, even the weakest of 1/2 drives could have gotten those out. The fill plug for the M/T, easiest thing ever. Drain plug for the M/T...hardest thing ever. My plug is the definition of rounded. except for drilling it, there's no way it's coming out. I don't see why drilling it wouldn't work. Drill it, then use an easy out. If the easy out breaks, then you just made yourself a new plug. I don't see a downside. Oh, my... The most common steel out there is low carbon or mild steel and boy is it soft, 10-20 Rockwell C. It is malleable. Read this... We won't go into case hardening, air hardening, oil quenching or any of that. The stock item is steel. Do me a favor, see if a magnet sticks to it. People have had trouble with every plug of that type on the vehicle, it seems random as to which is tighter. I damn near tore my arms off getting my front diff drain out... When was the last time the plug was removed? Corrosion? Heat cycles? Actual amount torqued? Was it lubricated? Variables ad nauseum... I dare say the factory had the right tool that fit perfectly. Odds are it was 13mm not 12.7mm like you are using which is .012" undersized, but actually .017" across the hypotenuse in the best case scenario. I admire your conviction but do you mean to ask questions when you make statements instead? B Edited January 6, 2012 by Precise1 Oh, I just read Nunya's post. LOL pretty much the same thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. So what about the fill plug? I'm not even going to ask about the differentials because those are probably steel. Why would the drain plug be hard to get out because of the "dissimilar metal corrosion", but not the fill plug? What about the t-case? That's not even a claim you can make. Google search galvanic potential add some head and road grime and corrosion gets bad....mine is fskced up from using a 1/2" breaker bar but I made sure to keep upward force while turning after I ringed it out a time or 2...iirc they r pipe threads as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I wasn't aware that you could burn steel with a propane torch. You can burn steel wool with a 9v battery. Anything that'll combine with oxygen will burn, given the right conditions. The purpose of torching a drain plug isn't to burn it, anyway, it's an attempt to break up the corrosion holding it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 (edited) Google search galvanic potential add some head and road grime and corrosion gets bad....mine is fskced up from using a 1/2" breaker bar but I made sure to keep upward force while turning after I ringed it out a time or 2...iirc they r pipe threads as well Oh yeah. I did google the "dissimilar metal corrosion". That was pretty interesting. At first, the article was talking about when a current is applied between two different types of metal but then it went on and explained without current. That's really interesting that just because two metals aren't the same, they can corrode. I know why the drain plug won't come out. I'm not...mad, I guess, that it's been subject to heat, grime, "dissimilar metal corrosion", etc. I wasn't trying to start a fight over weather the drain plug was steel or not. I was wrong. I really expected something made of "steel" to not be torn up by a breaker bar so easily. I even put a jack under the breaker bar to prevent it from twisting and slipping. No luck. Oh well. Something to deal with in the spring. el-cheapo AAP suction pump for now.. You can burn steel wool with a 9v battery. Anything that'll combine with oxygen will burn, given the right conditions. The purpose of torching a drain plug isn't to burn it, anyway, it's an attempt to break up the corrosion holding it in. I know. I wasn't intentionally burning it. I wasn't keeping the flame on it. When I was moving the torch around, I would sometimes accidentally go over some of the plug. It would instantly smolder. Edited January 6, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 research sacrificial anodes its used when dissimilar metals can't be avoided...I think the "safe" area is less than .25 differential on the galvanic scale but I could be wrong...not trying to be an ass just trying to educate BC i didn't know about it really until I worked in the aerospace industry and now have applied it in the trucking industry... Now b u can't go around telling folks to check if its magnetic....what if someone had a stainless plug made for that truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Now b u can't go around telling folks to check if its magnetic....what if someone had a stainless plug made for that truck? and now one of the shiny machinists here knows what to make me for my birthday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 and now one of the shiny machinists here knows what to make me for my birthday Why? It'd be that much harder to paint it pink! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Now b u can't go around telling folks to check if its magnetic....what if someone had a stainless plug made for that truck? Damn, I didn't think of that!! Wait, 316 or 420?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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