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front wheel bearings on a 97


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I picked up all the parts to do front wheel bearings but as I read the how to it seems i :scratchhead: should change the seals,

That makes sense becuze bad seals could be the reson there so worn,I was just wondering if anyone has done this job and how long should it take me and is there any thing else that needs replaced while I have the wheels apart ,I know I need manual hubs Still, I did get break pads.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i got all teh parts and iam going to take some pics

and do it as soon as i get a day off work

Edited by snoob
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  • 3 weeks later...
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well i have my bearings out right now, my bearings and races are fine, just need new seals. i'm going to pick those up (and some pancakes), i'll snap some pics and post em up, if you want.


Please do post any pictures of the process. I've read the how-to and am ready to do mine soon for the first time, along with my rotors and pads. :popcorn:

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ok so i forgot to take pictures of putting everything back together, but i do have some pictures. don't know what good it will do.


i'll just do a run up putting it back together i guess..



clean the hub, thread, and retainer groove with brake cleaner.





check and clean your races, feel them for any grooves. if its still smooth, you're good to go. to remove the races, use a socket and dead blow hammer to drive them out their respective sides, and reverse to install new ones. clean the groove between the races, and repack with grease until its flush between the 2 races. recommend cleaning the abs sensor and grooves while you have it out.


lug side


brake side




before greasing the bearings, place pressure in random places and roll the bearings, feeling for grooves, flat spots, and other wear. when packing with grease, place grease in your palm, and work it into the gap in each side of each bearing, turning the bearing as you go to work it into the spaces between the rollers. once they are packed, place the rear (larger) bearing inside the hub, packing some extra grease in behind it.


rear, left. front, right.




always get new grease/oil seals for the rear. cost $11 at napa. i drove it in using a rubber mallet. do not use metal, it will just chew it up. once the seal is placed, bolt the brake disc back to the hub, and put the hub back over the spindle until it stops.


new grease seal



clean up the retainer nut and ring, remove any burrs (mine had a few). place the outer bearing inside, pack some grease around it, and thread the nut on until it stops. there is a tool for tightening these down and checking their torque, but i cant seem to find a picture of one. i just used a 4 lug axle socket and snapped off 2 of the notches. i do not have the torque specs with me, but i will have them tomorrow when i get my write out from all-data.





replace at least the inner o-ring on the drive flange (or manual hub), i found them at napa and paid $3 for a pair of them. the ring should snap over, and fit in the groove. i will also have the exact size and thickness tomorrow as well.


pack the inner of the flange, where its smooth and shiny with grease, and place some (not much) on the rough section, and a light coat on the inner o-ring.





place for flange nuts back on, torque them down, and put the rest back together.

Edited by skulptr
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Super write up...I just did this too!


One thing to pay close attention to putting it back together is to make sure that your outter bearing is pushed far enough in. I like to use the 4wd bearing lock ring tool and a rubber mallet to push the outter bearing in before you try to sping that lock ring on...otherwise you may spin for days before those fine threads catch anything.


In addition, if you haven't owned the vehicle since new, wathch out for cross threading on this...it could cost you a new spindle. The lock ring will not cross thread itself, just the spindle.

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i just pushed it in by hand until a quarter inch of threads were showing. you'll know its threaded if it runs in and out on the threads freely, with very very very little effort to turn it, being sure to push and pull on the hub to see where it was sitting before tightening it down, if it moves, the bearings aren't set yet

Edited by skulptr
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