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Manual transmission TSB


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

A big thank you to madkiwi for the post and the TSBs. Also a big thank you to 88pathoffroad for publicizing this information elsewhere.

 

This would explain why 1.) sliding into 4th gear started to get a little sticky last year. We had the clutch and transmission re and re about 60,000km ago in 2005 at an independent Atuo Pro shop with a high turn over rate. (OK, I know better now.)

 

Last summer I paid the Nissan dealership to do a mechanical and safety check after the pathie was stolen outside of Mountain Equipment Co-op in downtown Vancouver in broad daylight. The dealership topped up the transmission at the time and suggested that the transmission had been "weeping". The dealer however missed the sticky 4th gear which disappointed me. (I understand now better than ever the interest of doing as much maintenance and repairs yourself.)

 

Incidentally, we finesse the sticky 4th gear issue by allowing the RPMs to drop to low levels. When the engine is cold, there is no stickiness.

 

I had a young mechanic who is just starting his own drive-train business do the flush and refill recently. There was a slight miscommunication problem. Instead of just putting in 5.1 litres of G4-7590 synthetic gear oil, he put in almost 6 litres. Ultimately he tilted the vehicle but by how much I do not know.

 

So far so good. The young mechanic suggested that if the flush were to alleviate or improve the slightly sticky 4th gear issue, it would take about 10 to 20km of driving. I noticed a tiny drop of gear fluid on the car port floor, probably coming from somewhere near the rear differential. BTW, he added AC Delco limited slip differential additive.

 

My best guess? The slight overfill on the tranny fluid will not pose a problem. My go-to brake 'n muffler mechanic agreed. But I'd appreciate some feedback please.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
The 4-cyl transmissions are different and the TSB doesn't apply to them AFAIK.

"4-cyl" manual transmissions (FS5W71C gearbox, for Z24i and TD27T engines) not covered by this TSB, but they are suspected to the same problem (lack of lubrication) even greater. Recommended countermeasures (add 1-1.5 liter of GL-4 tranny oil "over top") are the same for all 1987-95 Pathfinders/Terrano with manual transmissions.

Edited by Terrano1992
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  • 3 weeks later...
My transmission doesn't do that yet but what would be the best brand to do it with, I think valvoline makes it and also what weight do I need to use for the tranny. How many quarts do i need to use for this job?

Did you read the TSB's linked in the first post?

 

- The transmission oil level has been increased from 3.6+/- 0.1 L to 5.1 +/- 0.1L (an increase of 1.5L) to prevent lack of lubrication.

So using a Measurement Converter such as "Digital Dutch" this comes out to be 5.38911 +/- 0.105669 US Quarts

 

From the first post:

Final note, do not use any gear oil rated GL-5 in the Nissan manual transmission. It says in our manual to use GL-4, and there is a difference. GL-5 oils have additives that destroy the soft bronze synchros in our transmissions. I use Red Line MT90, and it works very well.

I HEAVILY recommend that you take his advice here... no GL5, unless you reasearch the GL5 fluids and are absolutely sure that they will not damage the soft metal parts. I personally used Redline MT90 as well (which is a GL4 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil)

 

And as for Valvoline this is from McClurgM's post on Page 5:

I called Valvoline to ask about thier gear oils. the tech said that all valvoline gear oils although GL-5 are compatabile with soft metals.

1-800-team-val

Now not to doubt what he said, but if it were me, I would verify that by calling myself before buying any such fluid.

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  • 4 months later...
I had my fluid changed to the redline MT90 two years ago. Last winter it was fine, this winter it's like shifting through mud. I didn't have ti flushed, just drained and filled. I may have it done again after the winter. I have a weird problem. If I shift from 1st to 2nd, it gets hung up. If I shift from first to neutral then to 2nd, it's ok. Also, when it's cold and I'm shifting to 2nd, it always grings no matter how far I press the clutch. 3rd gear is a little better. I don't have a problem with 4th or 5th.

mine does the exact same thing. but once its warm its fine.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

Is the pathfinder transmission vented? The reason I ask this is because in boats I have always filled the lower unit from the DRAIN plug with a fitting and pump. I was wondering if this would work on my Pathfinder?

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  • 2 months later...

I know I'm affected by this as I have a 95 Pathfinder SE 3.0 V6. I have had tranny noise for about a year and a half now however it had previously only been a whine while accelerating in 5th gear. I had zero troubles in any other gear and there was no grinding or trouble getting in or out of them. The truck has just over 200,000 km on it. In the fall I swapped the oil out with Quaker State 75w90 GL4 Full Synthetic (available at NAPA), it didn't improve or make matters worse. Now I'm getting a wha wha wha wha sound while letting the clutch out gearing down for stop signs / lights. The wha wha wha I'm starting to hear but much more quite while accelerating in other gears. This has only been happening for a couple of weeks now. I've been told that this may be my throw out bearing. In somebody's opinion could this be two separate issues: 1 - the throw out bearing, 2 - chipped teeth on the 5th gear. Or..am I already looking at a transmission rebuild as I've been staving my tranny of lubrication for to long as it is.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey everybody thanks for the input for this problem! :) I just want to know the space between the transmission and the transfer-case, will the oil from the transmission fill this void or does it come from the transfer-case. Which brings another question to mind, " do you use the same type of oil in the transfer-case as the transmission". It would seem obvious it would, I just wanted to be sure.

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There is no rear seal on the Manual 4x4 tranny. So yes, the tranny oil does fill this void. (and leak @ the seam if your mating seal has dried up like mine)

If your fwd seal on your t-case is bad it will also overfill your t-case.

You can run the same fluid as your MT or you can run ATF Dextron.

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  • 2 weeks later...
There is no rear seal on the Manual 4x4 tranny. So yes, the tranny oil does fill this void. (and leak @ the seam if your mating seal has dried up like mine)

If your fwd seal on your t-case is bad it will also overfill your t-case.

You can run the same fluid as your MT or you can run ATF Dextron.

Thanks Man! I got her put back together, runs like a Champ!

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  • 5 weeks later...

I get the feeling the Duck Truck's Transmission is about to blow up the whining is so bad, I dont even use 5th gear anymore.

 

So I spoke to my local Nissan dealer, spoke to one of the service guys, who is endlessly familiar with this problem. Since I dont have the $1600-$3500 for a rebuild, he suggested doing the oil 'overfill' as demonstrated in this thread.

 

...I'll get to the point eventually...

 

Trying to find MT90 proved difficult, so called Nissan back & asked what oil they use for this transmission, they buy in bulk & its not specifically available to the public, but he suggested the following:

 

Any 'Light Gear Oil', told me to look for Castrol VMX 80 (GL4, 75W85)

 

At any Repco in Australia 4L is $43 & 1L is $12. Then add some friction modifier such as 'Lucas Slip-stop', $18.50 a bottle, once again, at any Repco in Australia.

 

--DuckMan.

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  • 7 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Has anyone drilled a new fill hole higher up on the case and installed another plug? Seems like it would be a decent solution, but I guess you'd want to remove the innards of the transmission first...

 

 

too much work, drilling, taping cleaning out all the chips so the tranny doesn't grenade...

just get 2 elbows 3/4" pipe thread and make and s turn if you want a higer hole. I still fill from the shifter but having the s-turn hole helps when checking fluid levels.

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too much work, drilling, taping cleaning out all the chips so the tranny doesn't grenade...

just get 2 elbows 3/4" pipe thread and make and s turn if you want a higer hole. I still fill from the shifter but having the s-turn hole helps when checking fluid levels.

You cant drill another hole higher up because the case would be to thin. A thicker boss was cast in the case where the plug hole was supposed to be so it had enough meat for threads, the rest of the case is thinner.

 

The S pipe sounds like a good idea how about a pic? I can't get my drain plug out to change it and my main concern is that I don't have enough fluid. This way I could check it.

 

Do you have to pull the carpet back to get the shifter boot off on a 5 speed? I was just eye balling it and it looks like it would be hard to get to the bolts.

James

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick checklist.

5 sheet metal screws holding the metal shift boot ring, In ADDITION to the 2 at the carpet tabs. Total of 7 screws to remove.

Plan on cutting your carpet. I had to to get my shifter boot off.

Plan on cutting your fingers! Nissan has all but sharpened the metal ring.

Also there are 2 snap rings to choose from. I saw the big one first so that is the one I pulled. As such I did not need a funnel.

 

Amsoil sells 75W-90 GL-4 manual transmission/transaxle oil. Also, it is full synthetic and about the same price as the Redline. Might actually be easier to get as they have distrubutors all over the states.

Took me about 2 hours with a warm trans.

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Yep, that sounds about right. It's not that bad though...

 

 

I can't get my drain plug out to change it and my main concern is that I don't have enough fluid. This way I could check it.

 

Do you have to pull the carpet back to get the shifter boot off on a 5 speed? I was just eye balling it and it looks like it would be hard to get to the bolts.

James

You still haven't gotten the plug out?? You tried soaking it with penetrant?? Heating it?? Beating it?? How bunged up is the square drive hole, will a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar still fit?? If so, put one in and shim it with steel shims as tight as possible, turn the handle so it is at a right angle, put a floor jack under it so it is forced into the plug and you don't have to try to hold it in then (try to) rotate it back and forth both directions until it starts to turn. The last one I did was so tight that when I heaved on it all I did was slide all 200lbs of me out from under the truck. I had to use the floor jack method, brace one foot on the frame and wrap one leg around a tire before I could get enough leverage. :blink:

 

I just slit the carpet an inch or two in the corners, it's not too bad to get in there. Just be patient.

 

B

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