MTXaudioSYSTM Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 (edited) alright so i have no dash lights that come on and the fuse is fine, have tail lights, and a dome light. i was wondering where after the fuse would its next stop is. i pulled the dash out and the bulbs are fine. i noticed i put a tad of a bigger fuse and im thinking i burnt something up but no sure where to look past the fuse. thankss Edited April 3, 2010 by MTXaudioSYSTM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Dimmer switch could be shorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 ill check it out! thankss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhardison Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Dimmer switch could be shorted out. That was my problem, fixed with a 3 dollar used one from pull-a-part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Now that I think about it, a kid in my Diesel Tech class had the same problem and the fix was a new dimmer switch as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 That was my problem, fixed with a 3 dollar used one from pull-a-part. Damn, that is a pocket discount item isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 hopefully going to the you pull yard here this week. ill deff get one or rig on up =] thanks for your help guys ill keep ya posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 been a while since ive been on here. i replaced dimmer switch and still no go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumguy67 Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 (edited) alright so i have no dash lights that come on and the fuse is fine, have tail lights, and a dome light. i was wondering where after the fuse would its next stop is. i pulled the dash out and the bulbs are fine. i noticed i put a tad of a bigger fuse and im thinking i burnt something up but no sure where to look past the fuse. thankss First thing I would check are the grounds. It looks like there are 6 or 7 of them for each gauge function. Q#1 - do all of the warning lights come on when you turn on the key? Q#2 - do the gauges work? Electrical schematic shows that positive is a single lead that is "hot in start and run" with a 10 A fuse. (Wire is wht/blk) If your fuse is ok then it could be in your key switch. Coming from the ECCS there is a wht/blk on a 10A fuse that has in line with it a "lock-up cancel solenoid" for a/t. It could be this solenoid. Not sure if this is the same line that goes to the panel though (damn Chiltons manual). Can anyone verify? I also noticed that there is a "bulb check relay" that has a direct ground that you may want to check. What you may want to try is buying one of those cheap inline fuse holders and , using a 10A fuse, jump the original positive feed and fuse block to power the panel. If it works then you know it's your power feeding the fuse block. If it doesn't then you know it's on the other side, possibly a bad ground or short circuit. This is how I figured out my power window issue. And in the end I just left the cheap fuse line in to feed it. Edited May 8, 2010 by sumguy67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted May 8, 2010 Author Share Posted May 8, 2010 First thing I would check are the grounds. It looks like there are 6 or 7 of them for each gauge function. Q#1 - do all of the warning lights come on when you turn on the key? Q#2 - do the gauges work? Electrical schematic shows that positive is a single lead that is "hot in start and run" with a 10 A fuse. (Wire is wht/blk) If your fuse is ok then it could be in your key switch. Coming from the ECCS there is a wht/blk on a 10A fuse that has in line with it a "lock-up cancel solenoid" for a/t. It could be this solenoid. Not sure if this is the same line that goes to the panel though (damn Chiltons manual). Can anyone verify? I also noticed that there is a "bulb check relay" that has a direct ground that you may want to check. What you may want to try is buying one of those cheap inline fuse holders and , using a 10A fuse, jump the original positive feed and fuse block to power the panel. If it works then you know it's your power feeding the fuse block. If it doesn't then you know it's on the other side, possibly a bad ground or short circuit. This is how I figured out my power window issue. And in the end I just left the cheap fuse line in to feed it. all the lights come on when u turn the key, all the lights stay on until i turn on the head or parking lights and the gauges work all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 could it be a problem with your headlight swithc stalk? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted May 9, 2010 Author Share Posted May 9, 2010 thats the next step. after that im installing a separate little light if i cant find the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumguy67 Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 all the lights come on when u turn the key, all the lights stay on until i turn on the head or parking lights and the gauges work all the time Ok... the headlight (all outer lights really) are also fed by a 10A fuse on wht/blk wire that includes a route through the "inhibitor switch" (a/t). Not sure if this is the same lead (again manual not clear) but if it is then the problem may be with the shifter electrical. This, because, there seems to be a connection between the "lock-up cancel solenoid" and the "back-up switch". Is the truck A/T? This all assuming I'm reading the elec dia correctly. You should know that I went into mechanical eng tech because electrical stuff and I didn't agree. HA! I'd look at the dimmer again too...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now