ZombeeXXX Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Hello, I have recently acquired a 90 SE with a mostly burnt Automatic. I don't like autos anyway, so the plan is to convert it. I have a 92 SE as a potential organ donor. The seller also mentions having collected the parts necessary which are in storage. I assume this has been mentioned before, my apologies for potentially beating a dead horse. Difficulty level for a socket-wrench mechanic? I was surprised to not find much on this yet, but I guess it should be straightforward part swapping.. Any known writeups? Thanks for any tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Yes, a few people have done it, Beastpath and Packie88 IIRC??. Basically, it is not hard per se, just a lot of work. You want to have a donor handy as there are a bunch of little items from shifter boots to some vent ducting to clear the MC, etc. All the holes you need are there from the factory so it is mainly disassemble and reassemble. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packie88 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 packie88 wishes he had done it. maybe sometime in the future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Trailchaser was another that did the swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 LOL, I knew it was someone with a monster rig... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Well, the other day the auto and most related parts came out. Today I just need to lower it and get the dash out to mount my pedals. Question is, what to do with the old tranny? BG&S in Lincoln doesn't seem too interested in it as a core. I doubt anyone here would really want to mess with it as it's missing reverse and second right now.. Hate to just take it to the jy and get $5 out of it. They only gave me $17.50 for the old shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 It really isnt hard I have a writeup with pictures in progress - I should probably finish it now I have graduated university.... IDK what to do with my core either - maybe try to sell it on craigslist to a rebuilding company? you cut your harness off the auto too right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 It really isnt hard I have a writeup with pictures in progress - I should probably finish it now I have graduated university.... IDK what to do with my core either - maybe try to sell it on craigslist to a rebuilding company? you cut your harness off the auto too right? A write up would be neat. I think I pretty much understand the mechanical aspects, and it seems straightforward swapping.. I have a flywheel and cover plate for in between. My clutch kit came with the pilot and the throwout bearing. Also ordered a rear main seal set. Have m/t bolts and all the hard clutch lines, damper, pedals, and hopefully all the ducting from the donor. My donor had over 140k miles, so I went with new operating cylinders as well. I haven't yet done anything with the automatic except wrestle it down to a cart. Wish I could get a hold of a tranny jack for a few days! Yeah, the wiring is what I need to research still... Just to override the inhibit and get reverse lights connected should be pretty simple. Just haven't looked at any diagrams yet. Should I yank the box from the passenger rear fenderwell and sell it? I assume it must be the a/t brain as the other truck didn't have it. Did break one manifold to y-pipe stud on each side... Thanks for all the tips, I'm pretty confident this will all be worthwhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 i never did anything with the at computer. you seem to have a good grasp of what is needed. sucks about the manifold studs (headers are the answer, lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 10, 2010 Author Share Posted June 10, 2010 Ha, yeah good point, but Timing belt is more important, so might have to make do with an engineered alternative of some sort for a while. Thanks, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 Well Gents, I am stuck on this; pilot converter/at pilot bushing http://www.courtesyparts.com/12330-pilot-converter-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-542929.html Tried hydraulic method and beat on her pretty good; will try again after applying some heat. I rented -and broke- the puller attachment for a slide hammer from Oreilley and it still seems siezed up. Hope they don't think I'm gonna pay for the Taiwanese garbage... Thought about taking the cutting disk and sectioning it out also... Good or bad thought? Just afraid of running into any unseen protrusion near the center of the bushing, scoring the crank. And does someone have a pic of the crank without the bushing in? Maybe a pic of the engine-facing side of the a/t bushing would even be helpful. Thanks, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 17, 2010 Author Share Posted June 17, 2010 What a B!tc#! Dremel cutter and carbide burrs ftw on this one. Cut it deep and caved in the side with a chisel. Then the puller popped it right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 That sounds like a royal pain, I've had to do that on other bushings myself. Glad you got it out though. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 19, 2010 Author Share Posted June 19, 2010 Thanks, B. Me too. Lost a little time because the rebuilt transmission and flywheel, etc that came with the truck ended up being sourced from a four cyl hardbody. Had to go swap for the one in storage from the other pathy. Hopefully I can find seals for it at a decent price locally... I think I have the wiring figured out, but just need to verify because I really want to run it with the tranny off to check the rear seal. The last step to complete the manual wiring is wiring the neutral switch. Take the plug with the two large gauge brown and black wires and wire it onto the neutral position switch. Either the brown or black plug wires can go to either of the switch wires as the neutral switch simply provides continuity. Once the plug is wired into the neutral switch simply plug into the existing truck wiring. So I understand this to mean that these wires set up in this fashion enables the truck to crank, however only in Neutral? I have a lot of interior assembly to do while I wait for another paycheck to buy seals and maybe a tranny jack of my very own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I think I have the wiring figured out, but just need to verify because I really want to run it with the tranny off to check the rear seal. Honestly, just change the damn thing, don't fark around with it. These trannys are a pain to pull so don't set yourself up to do it again in 50k miles... Ditto with the tranny jack. I swore that next time I have to do this, I'm buying one (rented last time and it cost 1/2 as much). No input with the wiring, me and electrons don't speak the same language. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 Ha, gotcha Sorry, I forgot to mention it was changed. Just thought i'd try to have a look see if I did a good job prior to putting her together. The crank had a little seal wear I think. Ought to have the clutch pack on and wiring ready tomorrow sometime, so will see what happens. Still got to hook up the ignition ( I think ) and make sure all the switches got put back properly and everything works... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Ok, that makes more sense... Unless you did something really bad, it can't leak more than the old one and it didn't sound like an issue. Use the Farce and trust in yourself ... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Well, It seems as though I lost the little "L" shaped grommet that goes at the front bottom of the bellhousing. Nissan calls it "grommet, sealing" And it's on national backorder... I posted a WTB ad, but my jack came in today and I'm going to go ahead with reassembly. I'll silicone the area up and if I find what I need, well then I'll see what happens. I seem to remember placing it on the tranny jack that I was borrowing, so who knows where it ended up. I think silicone will seal that well enough, only a small gap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 After fighting this tranny basically for a whole day, I called in some more eyes and muscles. The non-hydraulic jack was less than ideal for lifting and positioning the tranny with the T-case attached. With some additional jacks and an idea to push the top of the engine back to the firewall, I was able to back the trans off a bit and get it farther from the body. With a helper looking at the alignment of the bolts, I was able to jack the t-case up and get the whole thing to rotate into position! Might be able to get a test drive in this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 I hear you. I had a hydraulic tranny jack and I still needed a buddies help to get the final positioning. We struggled for about 15 minutes and suddenly *thunk* and "Holy Crap, is that it?? Yep it's lined up... Damn, quick, get some bolts started!!" B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeternaldark Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 It really isnt hard I have a writeup with pictures in progress - I should probably finish it now I have graduated university.... IDK what to do with my core either - maybe try to sell it on craigslist to a rebuilding company? you cut your harness off the auto too right? did the writeup ever happen?? im looking for some info on the topic and it sounds very interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Ditto with the tranny jack. I swore that next time I have to do this, I'm buying one (rented last time and it cost 1/2 as much). B Why do you need a trany jack for a little aluminum trans like that. I always use the guns, even on my brothers half ton chevy Z71. Slide it back and put it on your chest then roll out. (you must be on a creeper for the roll out part to work) The same way to put it back, it's a whole lot easier to stab into the clutch when your holding it instead of trying to align a jack. On the Z I took the transfer case off first. And don't try this with a cast iron case trans! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 did the writeup ever happen?? im looking for some info on the topic and it sounds very interesting. er...its still in progress. actually I have been half done with it for a while now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Why do you need a trany jack for a little aluminum trans like that. I always use the guns, even on my brothers half ton chevy Z71. Slide it back and put it on your chest then roll out. (you must be on a creeper for the roll out part to work) The same way to put it back, it's a whole lot easier to stab into the clutch when your holding it instead of trying to align a jack. On the Z I took the transfer case off first. And don't try this with a cast iron case trans! James Have you removed a WD21 tranny?? I'm guessing not or else you are some ginormous bayou boy or something... :blik: B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Have you removed a WD21 tranny?? I'm guessing not or else you are some ginormous bayou boy or something... :blik: B No I never pulled a WD21 tranny but lots of half ton ford and chevys, S10, ford rangers. As long as it's an aluminum case. Also only manuals, those autos are too damn heavy. And I'm not that big, 6' tall 190 pounds. Just been doing auto and diesel work from 1988 to around 2001 when I screwed up my knee. I am always in a hurry though, fighting with a jack takes too long if you don't need it. Course maybe if I didn't think that way I wouldn't have screwed up my knee. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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