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Im a timing belt idiot


jberzins
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I ordered my timing belt kit in early part of December and received it. Good news thanks to you guys I got a good price. Bad news, its been to cold to instal. I was actually gonna try and do it this week. Well guess what, wife called this morning saying the pathy wouldnt start, by the sound of it, the timing belt went out. Now she was not driving and said she only tried it a couple of times. So, after work I am gonna go home and look. First, this happened to me on a 300zx, before I knew about timing belts, and when I replaced it everything was okay. So, should I go ahead and replace the belt and pray that it is okay. Second, if I am going to replace it, what is the best way to line up the timing marks? Any help would be appreciated.

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so okay, what i have been told is that if all of the timing marks line up it should be okay, i just have to make sure that the crankshaft has the distributor facing #1. Has anyone else done this?

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When you get to the truck, pull the distributor cap and have her try to start it momentarily. If the rotor spins, the belt is in one piece (but may have jumped), and if it doesn't then the belt of broken. I suggest you proceed from there.

 

I really hope that isn't the case. There is rarely any bebefit to putting off the job, I can think of several people that have had the belt break the week before they 'were going to do it'. Not trying to rag on you, just warn others.

 

Yes, find TDC on #1 cylinder, line every pully up properly then hand crank it many times to make sure nothing contacts...

 

B

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What is the best way to find tdc?

I got off most of the stuff in the way, today, I am going to pull the harmonic balancer and take of bottom cover. The top of the timing belt seems to be in good shape and the cams seem to be in the same position. Well, after I get the new belt on should I just turn the crank to make sure everything is smooth. Then put everything back and try to start the truck. Someone told me I should take of both valve covers and manually check the valves. Any ideas on whether this is needed. Luckily nice enough weather today. Thanks again for help.

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In the past, I have heard of people using a long screw driver in the #1 cyl to find tdc. remove the spark plug, gently slide the long screw driver in until it touches the piston. rotate the crank, until the screw driver stops going up (piston is at/near tdc.)

I recommend electric tape wrapped around the shaft and head to prevent damage to the piston and spark plug threads, if you try this.

 

looking at the engine I am taking apart, you may be able to tell a damaged valve; if the valve should be closed, it should have a certain height. if a valve is bent, it will not raise up as far as it should. the damage may be nearly invisible to the naked eye, so complete disassembly would be required to inspect everything. I wouldn't bother, you will either need a new engine, or won't. the time/energy to remove everything to check, and then the time/energy to reassemble + gaskets, if everything checks out okay, you will find out just as easily by slapping a new belt on, and cranking it up (if it won't start, it's toast, anyway).

 

(edit: this is all presuming the t-belt is actually the problem. until you actually see a broken belt, it's all speculation, right?)

Edited by BenStoked
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Yes, like was said, put a rod into the cylinder and crank the motor until it reaches the top and the crank pully mark is in the right place. A wood dowel or plastic rod is ideal for this.

 

Did you ever check to see if the rotor turns yet?

 

B

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Let us know how it turned out. If not i have an extra vg30e in my basement that someone pulled from harrys u-pull-it and never paid for it. i was planing on tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Hell for $80 who could pass up a motor with 92k miles on it.

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  • 5 weeks later...

apparently i didnt have the timing correct when i re installed the timing belt and no im showing 0 pressure on 2 cylinders. Can anyone recommend where I go from here. I was told to remove the heads and have them worked. Is this the best course of action and if so does anyone have instructions/pictures showing the best way to do this?

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It is actually very simple to get it all back in time. You put the #1 cylinder at the top, then put the belt on the crank sprocket. Count 43 teeth from the punch mark on the crank to the punch mark on the driver's side camshaft sprocket. Once that is set, count 40 teeth from the punch mark on the driver's side camshaft sprocket to the punch mark on the passenger's side camshaft sprocket. That is as in-time as it will ever be. Note that the punch marks on the sprockets may not line up perfectly with the dimples on the timing cover, but you can rely 100% on the method I just described.

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