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Drl Fix


ventec
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Just thought I would post a quick fix on the Day Time Running Light (DRL) Module. Recently my driver's side headlight would not work when i switched to low beams only, everything else worked fine. I went in and grounded the bulb for a quick easy fix. that worked for a few weeks until the other head light started to not work. I grounded that one and it stated to blow fuses. So I decided to open up the DRL module and inspect it.

 

The Fix:

 

Tools:

10 mm wrench

Soldering Iron

Solder with fluw electrical

Flash light

std screwdriver

 

I pulled the DRL module and opened it up. After sufing the net a few site mentioned loose solder points on the circuit board. So I basically inspected the board visually and nothing seemed loose. Don't be fooled a connection does not need much to loose conductivity. I next started checking with a screwdriver how secure each solder point was. Low and behold 2 points were loose. I quickly soldered them up and closed the module up. 2 months later it's still working and the total cost was a fraction of what they charge at the wreckers.

 

Just one more thing that is common on the R50's that I came across.

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Thanks ventec. Dumb questions follow:

 

Where is the DRL module located?

 

Out of curiosity, why do only the front lights come on? Why don't all the lights come on? As a result I drive 24 hours a day with all the lights on. I want to be highly visible from behind in all atmospheric conditions.

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Is this R50 or DRL module specific?

Cracked solder joints are common failure for any automotive electronic modules exposed to vibration impacts. Not only DRL - power window amplifier, power door lock timer, etc... If you see heavy component (relay, connector) with solid pins soldered directly to printed circuit board - these solder joints are prone to cracking.

So, open a module and resolder all suspected joints (even if they look good) as a last hope before throw it away and replace with a new...

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Could this be the same reason my pass high beam light doesn't work... except the odd time I hit a bump and then it is on for a while (till the next bump)?

If your DRL works on that side, then the bulb and circuit is okay, so it could be the module, or your headlight switch.

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Cracked solder joints are common failure for any automotive electronic modules exposed to vibration impacts. Not only DRL - power window amplifier, power door lock timer, etc... If you see heavy component (relay, connector) with solid pins soldered directly to printed circuit board - these solder joints are prone to cracking.

So, open a module and resolder all suspected joints (even if they look good) as a last hope before throw it away and replace with a new...

 

so would this be y my passenger side window goes up very slowly? and even more slower on cold days?

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Nice!!

 

I'm thinking this should be pinned?

 

Is this R50 or DRL module specific? Do WD21 and R50 have the same ones?

 

B

 

This was in my R50 (2002 pathy) I've owned it for almost a year now and have found all the problems with these vehicles the hard way. So i thought i would help out.

 

The DRL on mine is right next to the batter on the fender side, pull the batery and there it is.

 

The problem with the DRL started affecting my low beam on the driverside going out and the High beam was fine. next it was the passengers side. As one person said it is the vibration that kills these components. My next job is to pull apart the gauge cluster and check the solder points my gauge light are flickering on and off.

Edited by ventec
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