jimmaw Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 anybody use this stuff before, heard its pretty good. not to sure how to use it, some told me to pour it into the cylinder's via the spark plugs,( pull them out add seafoam, put them back in let soak then start truck.) others said add it to the oil, and them i was told to pull a vacuum line and add it to that. not really sure what to do with it. any help would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 Read the can, man. Details are all over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 I've never heard of the cylinder via spark plug idea but that does sound intriguing. In the past when I've used SeaFoam, I've done the three-step program as per the directions on the can. The results were great. Be prepared to deal with a lot of acrid, nasty smoke, though should you use the vacuum hose method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 (edited) some told me to pour it into the cylinder's via the spark plugs,( pull them out add seafoam, put them back in let soak then start truck.) ...and have a hydro-shocked engine to rebuild If you want try this - remove spark plugs again after soaking, crank engine 30-60 seconds, put plugs back. Now you can start engine. I figure this is a method to remove carbon deposits from piston rings... Edited October 10, 2009 by Terrano1992 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 Read the can, man. Details are all over it. Having never herd of the product, that was exactly what I was thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yowzaeric Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 This stuff woks great. I use it in every used truck I buy. (3 or 4 year) If you add it to your oil it will clean out sludge and deposits but be advised it thins the oil so driving for any distance can be detrimental. Never heard of anyone pouring it into the cylinders either. follow the directions on the can and you can't go wrong.. You'll smoke out the neighborhood for sure but you'll see a change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydsno Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I just bought a can of seafoam and there weren't any direction on the can, it just said what it can be added to. I poured half the can in my fuel tank and half in the oil filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Does it run ok? If it does, leave it alone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 what is it? i've never heard of it except on this forum. also where do you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmaw Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I just bought a can of seafoam and there weren't any direction on the can, it just said what it can be added to. I poured half the can in my fuel tank and half in the oil filler. thanks guys for the info and like it says in the quote nothing much on the can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 thanks guys for the info and like it says in the quote nothing much on the can. Really? I just checked my can in the garage and there's a good amount of direction on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Sea-Foam is awesome (I buy it in gallon containers) I use it in almost everything (it is in the toolkit next to Duct Tape & JB Weld) Let me Google Seafoam for You! SEA FOAM Motor Treatment is a 100% pure petroleum product that safely and effectively cleans internal fuel and oil system components, helping your gasoline or diesel engine run cleaner and more efficiently. SEA FOAM is an EPA-registered product, and will not harm engine components, seals, gaskets, catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. SEA FOAM liquefies gum and varnish deposits or internal engine components, removing carbon deposits, freeing sticky valve lifters and rings curing rough idle, pinging and hesitation problems. By using SEA FOAM to eliminate varnish and carbon buildup, mechanics can more accurately diagnose mechanical problems that may exist. That is why Sea Foam has been so popular with professional mechanics for over 65 years. As a fuel system additive, Sea Foam will clean fuel injectors, clean carbon, gum and varnish deposits, add lubricity to fuel, stabilize fuel for 2 years and control moisture. As an oil system additive, Sea Foam controls moisture, gum, varnish and residue deposits. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D11ZVYwj62w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 (edited) Okay, I have some experience with Seafoam... I had just returned from a 3 day ocean cruise (my boat) on the 4th of July weekend and my boat was really dirty from fishing, etc. So, I was cleaning it up and the rear deck was self bailing. There were small holes in floor that were drains to the outside in case a wave crashed in there. The engine compartment had a lip around the outter edge of the door opening that had drains in the lip on both sides to keep that channel empty so water would not go into the engine compartment around the door. SO, I washed the front decks, then just flooded the rear deck with water and was scrubbing it with a hard brush on a long handle and it was taking a long time to drain. After about 15 minutes the water was gone and the deck was clean. I was going to start the engine to move it in the slip and the motor appeared to be seized. Now remember that I had just driven 100+ miles in the open sea and suddenly it would not even turn over and all I did was wash the decks. ???? I tried and tried to get it to turn over (mistake) and I could see it trying, but it seemed that compression was holding it in place because you could see it start to move each time. It eventually powered through and starting cranking, but would not actually start. I was really puzzled. I retraced what all I had done in the 30 minutes that had passed since it was running perfectly and after some investigation, I found that the drains in the engine door channels were clogged and then soon realized that water had funneled for 15 mins directly into the carburetor and worse yet, since I had forced the engine to eventually turn over and start cranking, What I had done was forced water into the cylinders and I was on the phone with a mechanic friend of mine who was telling me that the valves were going to be bent by my forcing the water past them and that it would now be in the oil too. If I had realized what the problem was before I forced it to to crank, I could have pulled the spark plugs and sprayed starter fluid in there to help dry it out as I cranked it with no plugs. Well, the oil was full of water. I was really really lucky though because it did not do damage to my valves on this Volvo Penta 4 cyl engine. It just mucked up my oil and carb. I changed the oil twice and could not get all the water out of it. It would turn milky after running it long enough to warm it up each time, plus the engine temperature was going up to excessive temps after running it for 10 minutes or more. I was worried I had done more damage was letting new water into it, but I willed that to not be the case. I refused to accept that as a possibility. So, when I went back to the same auto parts store to buy oil and filter again for the 3rd time in 2 days, they asked why and suggested using Sea Foam. I put some in and ran it for a few hours and right away the temperature issue went away and when I checked the oil the next morning it looked like beautiful golden clear honey. I was thanking God because I did not even want to consider the alternatives. After this, I went on several extended trips and never had an issue again. Seafoam is some amazing stuff and I can't believe I had never heard of it before either. And the moral of the story is this: If you ever mess up and pull your engine under water and it gets into it, DO NOT TRY TO START IT without removing the spark plugs. I was told that it was nothing short of a miracle that I did not have to replace my valves after this happened to me. Pass it on!!!! Here is an informative site about Seafoam Edited October 12, 2009 by MrJim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 "SEA FOAM liquefies gum and varnish deposits or internal engine components Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Seafoam works pretty well. Not sure why you'd want to put it into the cylinders via the spark plugs. If you put it into the fuel tank, won't it eventually end up there anyway ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 Seafoam works pretty well. Not sure why you'd want to put it into the cylinders via the spark plugs. If you put it into the fuel tank, won't it eventually end up there anyway ? If this was directed at my post, I was not saying to put the Seafoam in each cylinder. I was saying that you need to pull the spark plugs and crank the engine so you can pump out any water that is in the cylinder so it does not damage the valves. Apparently, water does not compress like gasoline does so it will instead bend valves when the space is compressed inside the cylinders. My mechanic friend told me to spray starter fluid into the spark plug hole to help evaporate any moisture that was in there, but after you pump out the initial water and then add the seafoam to oil and fuel system, it will take care of any moisture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder93x Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 So where do we pour the seafoam then for it to work best? and how much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 1/3 of can in the tank,1/3 in the oil(drive like 20 miles and change oil),1/3 in h-vap(note I've never done the h-vap I just dump half in the tank and the other half in the oil and go and buy a new filter and oil and change it when I get back.The oil usally come out blacker then hell even if it has less then a thousand miles on it.But the truck seems to run better after words...a nice smooth idle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 I run her low on fuel, pour in a pint and drive to a distant gas station; Have done this on all my vehicles including back in the leaded gas era. For oil I pour in a pint and let it idle for 10 minutes (no load) then drain oil, (I flush it with Marvel Mystery oil to get all the leftovers out) then new filter... Feed it thru a vacuum line to get the carbon & crap out. All this pint talk is making me thirsty for a Guinness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 I never tried the vac line, but did the oil and gas addition. How do you get it into the vac line (easily, without spilling it all over)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 i pour it in the cap of a spraypaint can & pull the vacuum line off the brake booster while running. putting my finger over the hose so I don't kill the truck and just stick it in. it sucks it up quick; and the smoke screen begins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 If this was directed at my post, I was not saying to put the Seafoam in each cylinder. I was saying that you need to pull the spark plugs and crank the engine so you can pump out any water that is in the cylinder so it does not damage the valves. Apparently, water does not compress like gasoline does so it will instead bend valves when the space is compressed inside the cylinders. My mechanic friend told me to spray starter fluid into the spark plug hole to help evaporate any moisture that was in there, but after you pump out the initial water and then add the seafoam to oil and fuel system, it will take care of any moisture. Nah, it was really more at the original post with spark plug comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmaw Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 thanks guys ran it threw, noticed much better performance. smoother idle, and gets up and goes a bit easier now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomyc48 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 my only experience w/ seafoam was really bad... i used it just like it said on the can. half in teh oil half in the gas tank. and sure enough the next day my my engine was in serious need of a rebuild. it thinned out eth oil so it was lubricating the way it shuold and it lowered the octane ratign of teh fuel so needless to say my engine detinated. i ended up w/ a melted piston and had to rip the motor out of the car to work on it. once i got it apart i had to scrape all teh melted aluminum off the cylender walls and hone it out real well. everyoen that saw teh pictures of it told me the same thing , don;t waiste your time trying to rebuild it the motor is shot!!! of course the idea that i could repair it for less then $200 VS. a new motor for close to $1000 i tok my chances, and what do you know. she runs like a dream!!! burns a tad bit of oil. maybe 1/2 a quart every 3000 miles but that's realy not bad. anyway the piont is if you use it be prepared for what it can do if you don't drain it out right away and or you decide to be hard on your car or truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Wow! Never heard of that before. Did you contact the company ? Not sure what "drain it out" means. I thought it just burns off with everything else... Also, not sure how the thinning oil and lower octane would cause detonation. I would have thought the machine would have just cut altered the mix to compensate for the lower octane... But that may just be my ignorance and lack of knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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