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bigred07
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so we also have an old 86 hard body pick up 4x2. it wont start. new batttery and we pulled the starter out and had it tested it was fine. when you turn the key you can hear some kind of click noise coming from where the started is. any ideas why its not starting and how to fix it?

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First, make sure you have solid ground, both wire and contacts. Don't assume, examine, clean and re-fasten.

 

Next do the same for the positive charge side, all the way to the starter.

 

k9sar has a good write up about this trouble shooting. Please search for it and if you can't find it, let me know; I will. :beer:

 

B

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jump testing the starter is pretty easy.

If you have the starter installed:

DISCONNECT YOUR COIL WIRE (you do NOT want it to start unexpectedly)

Hook a jumper cable to your + terminal and drag the other end under the truck (don't let it ground).

Reach up and pull the trigger/ignition wire off the starter solenoid

Put a clip lead on the terminal post on the starter solenoid (make sure it is isolated from ground)

Test by touching the clip lead to the jumper cable. This will bypass the entire ignition system.

If this tests ok, remove the clip lead and plug the connector back into the starter solenoid and try using the ignition key. If this works, you know nothing. If it doesn't, the problem is in the ignition circuit and could be a relay, inhibitor, connection, etc.

 

 

 

is this what you were talking about? there's two wired conected to the starter which one is trigger/ingition wire and whats a clip lead?

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I think the older ones carried a ground wire to the starter solenoid as well. You can check this by doing a continuity test from the plug to body ground. Test each wire and you should find one that does not read as 'open'. Double check the other to see if it has 12V on it when the ignition is turned to start. You want to hook your jumper wire to the spade that corresponds to the ignition wire in the conenctor. You will then need to put a lead on the other spade and clip that one to the frame if, in fact, it is a ground wire. Then proceed to hit the first clip lead with hot from the battery.

 

Don't those old D21's have an ignition starter switch? Perhaps that is shot.

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I think the older ones carried a ground wire to the starter solenoid as well. You can check this by doing a continuity test from the plug to body ground. Test each wire and you should find one that does not read as 'open'. Double check the other to see if it has 12V on it when the ignition is turned to start. You want to hook your jumper wire to the spade that corresponds to the ignition wire in the conenctor. You will then need to put a lead on the other spade and clip that one to the frame if, in fact, it is a ground wire. Then proceed to hit the first clip lead with hot from the battery.

 

Don't those old D21's have an ignition starter switch? Perhaps that is shot.

 

i don't know. its set up the same way at the pathfinder, push the clutch turn the key and start it. turn it off push the little black button by the key to get it al the way out. my dad thought maybe it has somethign to do with the ignition but i don't know anything about it. so i asked here since they're so similar.

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mine an auto but don't the manual trannys have an inhibitor switch to keep you from starting it while the clutch is not depressed? Perhaps this is a source of the problem.

 

 

yeah i assume they do and the clutch is old, i can check my repair manual to try and figure out where that is i guess.

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Check the starter again, just in case, though I know its a pain. I've had one that tested fine one day, then I put it back in and nothing, took it back and it tested bad the next day. You can *tap* the starter casing too with a hammer or wrench, that may make it work/not work, but its a bandaid and won't work for long. After that, go to wiring if the battery is fine. My truck has 175K miles, and over the years I've had to replace the + battery cable (to vehicle and starter) and - as well due to age, big stereo, lots of lighting, all of the above. All told, its maybe $40 total and some time.

 

I also had something go bad in the ignition circuit about 2 years ago. I'm not sure what, but even with the new cables, good starter, etc. it still wouldn't start. I traced the ignition circuit back to the firewall, then when that was fine, I tore the steering column apart and started at the ignition and went back. No go, everything tested fine that I locate. I ended up re-wiring directly from the ignition, bypassing the Interlock switch as well as the rest of the wiring and started fresh from the column and wired directly (fused!) to starter. Its not exactly ideal, but it's held up fine so far. Just a thought.

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