keithb7 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I am trying to replace the front rotors, calipers and pads on my 1993 WD21 4x4. I cannot find the correct deep socket type tool to remove the bearing cover plate. I went to my local auto parts store and could not locate the right one. The closest I think is this one from OTC. See here: OTC Tool I would have to order this in, as they had no stock at any of their 100 stores here in Western Canada. Plus they want like $68 for it, plus tax. What did you use to remove the bearing plate? I could use some advice. Something that will accept a torque wrench would be preferred as I want to apply the correct amount of bearing pre-load on reassembly. Here is where I am stuck. You can see I need a tool with only 2 pins. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I used 2 6mm allen keys. But it probably isn't the right way. But it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Them me telling you I used a flathead screwdriver and carefully tapped it without an issue (3 times so far) was going to drop small welds on a socket but since the beering grease keeps them easy to move I just tapped it off. Okay bearing grease; but beering grease sounds better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_RI Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 You can use OTC 7270A and grind two of the tabs off. That part is probably more readily available and cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 You can use OTC 7270A and grind two of the tabs off. That part is probably more readily available and cheaper. I believe there is a thread about this also. Them me telling you I used a flathead screwdriver and carefully tapped it without an issue Same here, several times. No problems... Also, make sure to double check them after 20 miles or so, you may need to reset them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 (edited) Heres my writeup i did on 4x4parts.com on 9/25/05. i cant remember the size i bought and its not marked on the socket...but it was 1 of the 3 that the advance autoparts had here...it was the 4 prong they had for a chevy i think and i took the locknut with me to see which 1 i could make work... when i held the locknut on top of the socket you i saw if i used the dremel tool to take 2 prongs off and file 1/4 the thickness of each of the remaining prongs and cut a camber on each that it would fit pretty nicely... attached are the before modification...after modification and with wheelbearing locknut resting flush against it...the socket cost me about $6 and took about 10 or 15 mins to grind w/ the dremel.... Edited September 17, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 I downloaded and read the actual manual. It states to initially torque to about 125 ft lbs or so. Then back it off and re-torque to about 7 lbs I think it was. So I thought, why not try and remove with a screwdriver tip or an allen wrench. With only 7 lbs on it, it should come off easily. It did. No tool required for dis-assembly. I believe they want 125 lbs just to set the bearing in place. Then remove torque and re set at only 7 lbs. No need for a special tool for this. 2 drill bits and a hammer handle works fine to crank up and set the bearing in place. Back off tension, set by hand, then tap it slightly tight with a screwdriver and hammer. 7 lbs is not much. It all went back together with out any special tool. Upon researching this I don't think any special ordered or fabricated tools are required. We'll see I suppose. I re-packed the bearings but re-used he inner wheel seals. They looked great, besides my wife never takes the Pathfinder 20 mins beyond home. I am not overly concerned about wheel seals and bearings with these short trips. It's a second vehicle and only gets used in the winter. Thanks for your comments everyone. I too am now a firm believer in the old "2 screwdrivers" trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Secret Santa last year bought me the actual socket made for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 I'd rather know my bearings are seated properly and spend the $6 on a tool that will allow me to do that b/c I'd really ahte to have a bearing seize up doing 70 on the highway or have it beat out the races and have to go through replacing the races/bearings when I would have to buy a race puller and then spend the $6 for the correct tool (or be ignorant and do it the way that got me in the messed up situation to begin with) plus the cost of the bearings/races...but each to their own...i'll take shortcuts but somethings I just don't think it's worth it and wheel bearings are one of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 ....my way of thinking too.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formerly_94PathyMan Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I did what UNCC did. I took an old Chevy hub socket with the four tabs and ground two off and ground the other two to fit the holes. Works like a champ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Heres my writeup i did on 4x4parts.com on 9/25/05. i cant remember the size i bought and its not marked on the socket...but it was 1 of the 3 that the advance autoparts had here...it was the 4 prong they had for a chevy i think and i took the locknut with me to see which 1 i could make work... when i held the locknut on top of the socket you i saw if i used the dremel tool to take 2 prongs off and file 1/4 the thickness of each of the remaining prongs and cut a camber on each that it would fit pretty nicely... attached are the before modification...after modification and with wheel bearing locknut resting flush against it...the socket cost me about $6 and took about 10 or 15 mins to grind w/ the dremel.... I just finished modding a tool myself, so I thought I would add the size specs for others. In my case it was.. Performance Tool 4 PIin, 2.375" Outer Spindle Nut W1271 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Channel595 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Wheel bearings are pretty forgiving and don't need to be exactly 7 ft lbs, and there is no special puller just a brass punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I use a pair of needle nose pliers to shove in the homes and an adjustable wrench to give it a turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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