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Subframe drop for R50


shift220
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It's far from finished...need to realign the steering column/diverter and linkage, definitely needs an alignment (it was out before the SFD any ways), still have to install the rear coil spacers (until I get custom rear springs) and front wheel spacers. And then the 33's go on!!!

 

Mine's the blue beauty, the other is Thunderbolt's rig...

 

Here it is before:

2010-10-03_13-03-36_861.jpg

 

And about half-way finished:

New%20Image2.JPG

 

It'll have a bit of reverse rake until I get the coil spacers in the rear, but it's totally drivable.

 

I'll take better shots when closer to completion and post measurements if anyone cares to see those...

 

BTW - Shift220 builds a great kit.

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Yep, yep. In fact, David and I were talking that we need to entice you to drive up to Colo and we could have a mod weekend and then some wheeling! Get 3 SFD'd R50's together for a trail run...now that would be a sight to see!

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It would be pretty sweet, im actually installing my lift in about an hour. gettin all my stuff together (camera, beer, food, compter all that jazz) :crossedwires:

 

Plus they are all Q's so we have the power too boot! Planning on running 35's tho

Edited by 01silvapathy
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It would be pretty sweet, im actually installing my lift in about an hour. gettin all my stuff together (camera, beer, food, compter all that jazz) :crossedwires:

 

Plus they are all Q's so we have the power too boot! Planning on running 35's tho

im looking forward to the results too...i just lifted mine in Aug and i already wanna go higher!!!!

Tye

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Little update. Started work around 8 ish been working 2 and a half hours. Axle was just dropped. Motor mount bolts are out next and then the subframe will be dropped. We are going to finish this toight! We made a pact, no one leaves except for food and beer :beer: Had a bit of an issue with one of my cv's which the boot was already ripped on anyways but its good for now.

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Okay so we quit working around 3. We got all the block mounted on the body side all we need to do is raise up the sub frame and bolt it together. We have had an issue with the steering joint and will have to modify it quite heavily to get it to work, but we have plan for tomorrow. We managed to strip out one of the LCA bolts but a new one will be had tomorrow thats no biggie. Here is a pic of how we left her for the night

 

SFDInstall025.jpg

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Okay so we quit working around 3. We got all the block mounted on the body side all we need to do is raise up the sub frame and bolt it together. We have had an issue with the steering joint and will have to modify it quite heavily to get it to work, but we have plan for tomorrow. We managed to strip out one of the LCA bolts but a new one will be had tomorrow thats no biggie. Here is a pic of how we left her for the night

 

SFDInstall025.jpg

Right on, I'm glad to see that you're finally getting it done after all the B.S that you were put threw in getting that kit together. I think next year we should all go to Gone (gathering of the Nissan enthusiast) in Moab. I would love to see all the Xterra guys looks on their face when 3 SFD Nissan Pathfinders show up and hopefully more, Also, if you're going 35", I would think that would be a little to much for the rack and pinion. I think that is why T4morgan went with that fancy-er steering set up.

 

David

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Hmm ya know I have not really thouoght about that. Im going to have to see if I can get ahold of him and talk about it. Altough MaxStryker ran 38.5x14.5 boggers on his r50 with pretty much no problems ill try and talk to him on facebook.

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Okay so the lift is on. I have to get new strut spacers from shift (andrew) cause mine are messed up....the alignment is wayyy off. Also need to fix the steering cause its binding. Question for those who have done the sfd lift. Where is the steering rack that needs to be bent, I could not for the life of me find it. Any clues would help alot. Pics of yall's steering setup would help also. Here is a pic of what it looks like the tires and alignment are screwed. But its big the measuremet to the bottom of the fender flare is 43 inches :D

 

SFDInstallPart2015.jpg

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Just remember that the top portion is pulled from a 91 Honda Accord. Also, the spline shaft from the steering column was cut off the 91 Accord to go btw the R50 and the Accord linkages:

 

2010-10-04_17-56-46_100.jpg

 

David and I were looking at the brackets the other day - I think the rotation is a good idea to help line things up. On my rig I found them on the front of the rack - one on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. They are pretty significant and have some hefty bolts facing the front of the rig. Hope that helps.

 

Glad you got it on!!! Oh yeah, the front looks EXTREMELY familiar - mine looks like the hind end of a Baja Bug.

 

Additional Info (Edit):

 

The brackets and bolts are fairly visible (4 large bolts in pic)

2010-10-10_11-50-59_494.jpg

 

Here are the pics of my linkage assembly

 

Top (connected to steering column diverter)

2010-10-10_11-51-34_931.jpg

 

Bottom (connected to rack)

2010-10-10_11-51-47_400.jpg

Edited by Rick13
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holy balls fatman! when your done, you'll have to post up, in one posting, what you have done with which parts in which order, so someone (like me) doesnt have to scrounge around for weeks on end through tons of msc information to get what i need to catch up to you!

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Okay so a little update. We fixed the steering issue and it works great now, no binding or anything. We were unable though to fix the strut spacers. The spacers that I got with my 4in sfd kit measured 4 1/2 inches tall. I think that dumbass alex who made them, cut the tube part perfect at 4inches, but forgot about the two pieces of 1/4 flange that made the spacer 4 1/2 inches tall. His spacers were also straight and level. When you put the spacer on level ground and put a level on top its dead level. I believe this is wrong, and that the spacers need some kind of angle to keep the alignment and camber in check. We made new flanges and have tubing around the shop. My question is does anybody know the angle? Like is one side level and the other angled? Anyone have pics at all? Im in a bind cause I dont want to drive how its setup now, and its in the school ag shop parked where there are classes during the week and I dont want people messing with my truck in there. Any help would be great. Its amazing how helpful yall have been so far, people I have never met are really saving my life on this, and words cannot express my gratitude towards yall, I applaud all who have stepped up or tried to help me. :beer:

 

Sorry for any typos, I have been working on this lift with buddy for 31 hours since friday and im tired and have class at 9 so yeah its been a rough weekend, hopefully it will be worth it in the end :bed:

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You'll be fine with those struts spacer as long that you have the after market camber bolts, mine are built the same way and I don't have any problems with mine set up and the extra 1/2 inch isn't going make that big of a deal, there was something where they couldn't get it dial right on with the alignment and for the life of me couldn't remember what it was, but my tires have been wearing fine for me unfortunately :rofl: because I want the new Goodyear wrangler in 33", *** BFG's just wont wear out :headwall:

 

 

Okay so a little update. We fixed the steering issue and it works great now, no binding or anything. We were unable though to fix the strut spacers. The spacers that I got with my 4in sfd kit measured 4 1/2 inches tall. I think that dumbass alex who made them, cut the tube part perfect at 4inches, but forgot about the two pieces of 1/4 flange that made the spacer 4 1/2 inches tall. His spacers were also straight and level. When you put the spacer on level ground and put a level on top its dead level. I believe this is wrong, and that the spacers need some kind of angle to keep the alignment and camber in check. We made new flanges and have tubing around the shop. My question is does anybody know the angle? Like is one side level and the other angled? Anyone have pics at all? Im in a bind cause I dont want to drive how its setup now, and its in the school ag shop parked where there are classes during the week and I dont want people messing with my truck in there. Any help would be great. Its amazing how helpful yall have been so far, people I have never met are really saving my life on this, and words cannot express my gratitude towards yall, I applaud all who have stepped up or tried to help me. :beer:

 

Sorry for any typos, I have been working on this lift with buddy for 31 hours since friday and im tired and have class at 9 so yeah its been a rough weekend, hopefully it will be worth it in the end :bed:

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Not trying to respond for Andrew, but I think he started piecing his kit together some time ago (before Shift220 started offering his version to others).

 

As an update, I pulled the upper linkage (to the column diverter) and had my wife straighten and then hold the steering wheel very still while I reconnected it. Now I can drive straight and not have my steering wheel at 90 degrees (it's the little things ya know). :lol:

 

I'm going to attempt to insert the gasket spacers in the rear coils this evening. Hope that helps the rake/ride a little.

 

I talked to my local Firestone shop last Friday (where I have a lifetime alignment agreement) and at first they weren't sure about honoring the agreement because of the "significant" modifications performed on it. I talked to them again today and it looks like they'll take it tomorrow morning and "see what can be done" with the camber/toe-in that it currently has. Please wish me/them luck tomorrow. :unsure:

 

Here is a better photo, but please note that the parking lot is not level and actually makes the rake look worse than it truly is. And please no rude comments, it will look better soon...

 

New%20Image%204.JPG

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Okay so now I have another question. If yall think that the spacers being the extra height wont hurt it....wont that mean that the suspension will technically be higher up which means it will top out alot more often? I have the camber bolts but in the pic I will post below, they are adjusted to their MAX. Would maybe trying to adjust the tie rods help. Rick, do you have a front shot of your truck with how its aligned right now? Im guessing yall didnt mess with the tie rods.

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Okay so now I have another question. If yall think that the spacers being the extra height wont hurt it....wont that mean that the suspension will technically be higher up which means it will top out alot more often? I have the camber bolts but in the pic I will post below, they are adjusted to their MAX. Would maybe trying to adjust the tie rods help. Rick, do you have a front shot of your truck with how its aligned right now? Im guessing yall didnt mess with the tie rods.

 

The extra height in the strut spacer has nothing to do with the topping out, that has to do with the springs in the struts, besides you have warn hubs to save the cv axles any way and we didn't messed with the tie rods, also I would just take it in for a alignment and later if the strut top that Alex made is bugging you, then buy Shift220 strut tops, since he took the time to get it closer on the specs for our Rigs.

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I forgot the pic, but here is how it sits now.

 

SFDInstallPart2015.jpg

 

But in reality what can they adjust that I cant adjust in the shop by myself. The camber bolts are at their absolute max that they can go to. It feels terrible to drive like that, like the tires are just being chewed up like no other.

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No, I don't have a good pic of the front...but it looks almost identical to your's (except mine are toe'd in a little). My drivers front wheel is the worst and has terrible feathering on the outside edge. That's why I've been trying to get it aligned - figured if an alignment shop can't get it to work, then I'll have to rethink something in the setup.

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No, I don't have a good pic of the front...but it looks almost identical to your's (except mine are toe'd in a little). My drivers front wheel is the worst and has terrible feathering on the outside edge. That's why I've been trying to get it aligned - figured if an alignment shop can't get it to work, then I'll have to rethink something in the setup.

 

LOL i get scared when I turn like that, its literally riding on sidewall.

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I agree that I am very worried about just how much the cam bolts can adjust back in. The toe-in shouldn't be an issue since it's just tie rod turning/adjusting. I keep thinking I installed the strut towers on the wrong sides!!!

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