wilson Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 hello all , this is my first post on the forum and I'm really excited to have found the resource. I have a couple of questions. seeing as I have the factory default manifold leak, i was wonderingif anyone used the pacesetter header and are they of good quality or should I go with something better? suggestions? also the floor boards on the drivers side get incredibly hot while driving. is this due to the manifold leak or am I missing a heat shield somewhere? thanks for your time wilson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) hello all , this is my first post on the forum and I'm really excited to have found the resource. I have a couple of questions. seeing as I have the factory default manifold leak, i was wonderingif anyone used the pacesetter header and are they of good quality or should I go with something better? suggestions? also the floor boards on the drivers side get incredibly hot while driving. is this due to the manifold leak or am I missing a heat shield somewhere? thanks for your time wilson Pace setters are good, just inspect the y pipe B4 you install, they often forget to ream out that hole. Doug Thorleys are the best IMO and that what I have now. If the drivers floor boards get really hot chances are your cat is clogged, get a magnaflow direct bolt on, they are found on e-bay for 70-100 bucks vs nearly 260 or so new. they actually have a few on there now just search the part# 22765 for 86-89 pathfinders & HB 22760 for 90+ vg30 pathinders & HB this will cool your floor boards and you will notice an improvement in MPG as well if its bad enough to get that hot. Edited August 5, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 If the drivers floor boards get really hot chances are your cat is clogged Perhaps, but often it is an exhaust leak at the Y IIRC. Many people have burned holes in the floorboard right there (the exhaust is VERY close). My old truck had this issue, k9sar, GrimGreg and many others. Search for floorboard fixes but the exhaust probably needs attention first. Pull up your drivers side carpet and padding to see if/what the damage is so far. \ B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 good point B, Fortunately that was not my experience(the whole burning hole in floor part) whatever it comes to you've got us on your side man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaosSaint Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) I pulled all of my carpet out to shampoo and hit the interior with bed liner/ rustoleum and this is what I found under the drivers side carpet. There is an exhaust pipe very close to the floor board. I'm going out on a limb and guessing that this is where the heat is radiating from hahaha... Going to cut out the rusted section, weld new in, and paint the crap out of it with rustoleum (hopefully it's rated for high temps!). There really should be a heat shield or something there. Edited August 5, 2009 by ChaosSaint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 there is supposed to be one there. Mine has one. that's why when I had a hole, bigger than yours, my carpet didn't feel warm at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beavis0076 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Burned holes in the floorboard? Isn't it metal? Dam... maybe I should look at mine... cause its been gettin dam hot lately! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Burned holes in the floorboard? Isn't it metal? Dam... maybe I should look at mine... cause its been gettin dam hot lately! likewise, on dune trips it feels like my leg is on fire...uhoh! I just figured it was the tranny getting warm, cause the tcase shifter was hot as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 mine caught fire. fixed with cookie sheet and hot-pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beavis0076 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 mine caught fire. fixed with cookie sheet and hot-pads. eh.. mines insured.... then I wouldn't have to fix my throwout bearing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I think the hole in that location is a compound issue. 1. there is a seam between the floor pan and firewall sheet metal there. 2. there is the Y-pipe an inch under it. So, not only does the seam collect debris and water that can cause the rust to start, it gets heated which over time probably fatigues the metal a bit making it easier to rust out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 (edited) At least it wasn't like mine. There was a poor attempt at fixing it in there as well...You can see the expanding foam they put in the void on the left. A memeber here fixed the whole in the floor but it had moved into the structure of the body, so it cost me 500 dollars to have it all fixed. Edited August 7, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balmer Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 My exhaust actually vibrates against the floorboards on climbs due to me smashing it on rocks so many times... . My solution will be a body lift this fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitsu Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 At least it wasn't like mine. There was a poor attempt at fixing it in there as well...You can see the expanding foam they put in the void on the left. A memeber here fixed the whole in the floor but it had moved into the structure of the body, so it cost me 500 dollars to have it all fixed. oh wow i definately have to check mine caus i see a burned spot on my carpet but it more in the center of the floorboard on my side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 I thought mine was bad Adam, damn. Mine was only about half that size of hole, but clear across like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted August 12, 2009 Author Share Posted August 12, 2009 thanks for all the replies! havent had a chance to look under my carpet yet, but the vehicle has been in the desert its whole life. I'm doubting that its rusted through, but well shall see. I was wondering if this type of modification(headers) would effect my emissions? can I incorporate them into the existing exhaust system or would I have to replace more? Is the "plugged" catalytic convertor suggested in one of the earlier postsy really possible cause of the heat? Also, does anyone know a good mechanic in las vegas that's down with the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 I thought mine was bad Adam, damn. Mine was only about half that size of hole, but clear across like that. You should've seen the half assed repair that was in there. Thin sheetmetal with fiberglass over it, and the metal had rusted through again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 thanks for all the replies! havent had a chance to look under my carpet yet, but the vehicle has been in the desert its whole life. I'm doubting that its rusted through, but well shall see. I was wondering if this type of modification(headers) would effect my emissions? can I incorporate them into the existing exhaust system or would I have to replace more? Is the "plugged" catalytic convertor suggested in one of the earlier postsy really possible cause of the heat?Also, does anyone know a good mechanic in las vegas that's down with the cause? I can only remember one member recently that was in LV and I don't think he was a mechanic... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted August 12, 2009 Author Share Posted August 12, 2009 unfortunately, when there is welding involved I"m out. at least I believe there is welding involved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 just dump water on it when it gets hot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmyers23 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Thats what i do . On longer trips i just put a bag of ice under my foot. I know it's getting hot from an exhaust leak. All the connections on it leak and are getting worse. My poor pathy is starting to sound really bad . I'm talkin trailor park bad (no offense to anyone living in a trailor park). I want to upgrade to headers soon . I just hope they pass smog test. I seen a set on 4x4parts.com for $225. I'll see if I can talk my fiance into letting me get them. Let you know how that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) I never noticed how hot the floorboard got until I got rid of all my carpet and even with the 3" body lift the right foot gets a bit toasty...I think the headers may have magnified the heat but I don't have holes in the floorboards from it but I would think a simple home made heat shield with some C clamps would surfice...I know that's what I did on the pipe when I worked for FTL when we had an issue with temps with 2007 emissions being too high near the rear suspension (air bags for the air ride) during a regen cycle something similar to this (pretty much formed sheet metal with 2 "bridges" to space it off of the pipe and 2 worm clamps): (that pic is the heat shield on a 2007 emissions duramax) Edited September 10, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 I haven't had the heat issue with the original exhaust, but I just installed PaceSetter headers so I will be paying attention for this. Now onto the quality of the PaceSetters (which is what 4x4parts.com supplies). I had several fitment issues with them. 1) Had to cut the forward corner of the driver's side flange to get it past the AC compressor bracket. 2) Once bolted to the engine the ends where spaced too far apart to just simply slip on the crossover pipe. I ended up using a racheting hold down strap to pull the two ends together. 3) Even after i got the crossover pipe to go on, the flange to connect the rest of the exhaust was too far to the rear to get the rest of the exhaust in. Remedied this by cutting a 1/2" inch off both the passenger side header end, and the passenger side of the crossover pipe. This allowed the crossover pipe further forward. (I might not have had to cut the ends if the angles of the crossover pipe had been better, but as it was the crossover pipe bound up before it could bottom on the header end) Even with the cutting mod, i had to use some longer bolts in some places (to be able to pull exhaust pieces together), and relocate the muffler support that connects to the driver side frame rail. Relocation of the support was done by drilling a couple new holes in the support which allowed it to go to the rear ~1/2". Oh yeah, one more thing....the flange on the crossover pipe for connect the rest of the exhaust was angled upward which tried to push everything up against the body. I ended up assembling everything loosely at first, and tightened from the rear of the vehicle up to the crossover flange. The weight of the exhaust and the support from the brackets helped pull the flange down (header end) and kept it from touching the body. Additional information: My headers came with two ports on center exhaust pipe on the drivers side. The smaller one fit the EGR pipe and the larger one needed a plug. The plug thread size was 24mm x 1.5 . The thread size for the smaller one was 22mm x 1.5 (in case of EGR elimination). Order plugs from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/. The EGR tube didn't fit directly, but with a little heat from a propane torch and some bending I got to line up correctly. IMO, if i had to do it again I would go with Thorleys to hopefully avoid these fitment issues. People who have installed Thorleys can chime in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 My Pacesetters were pretty painless to install, no fitment issues at all. For the crossover pipe, I installed it while the headers were still just loose on the engine, so I could move them a little. Then I went back and tightened all the nuts on the engine. Only thing I had to do was rebend the EGR tube to the correct angle to thread on straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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