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33's on a 93 pathfinder


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BL are a PITA anything more than 1.5".

I just finished a 2" lift and it wasn't much trouble, just a bit of work. The biggest deal was dealing with the front bumper and replacing the hoses for the power steering tank... :shrug:

 

B

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some great comments on running the 33's

here are some more questions:

 

what is "UCA" and "CL".?????.....i dont know these terms yet

 

pathmaker1.....that is a nice rig...something i would like with 33's

 

i had bodylift on a old nissan p/u, would never put one of those on again

 

 

fenderworks

93 xe 180,000, 31's and wanting bigger

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  • 2 weeks later...
So with just a 3in sl i can run 33's? Has anyone had any gearing issues, or felt underpowered? Right now im debating on 32 or 33...

 

Yes if you don't mind cutting. As for power. I think they are underpowered to begin with so with stock gears and 33s it's a dog, but that's another reason I trailer it.

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some great comments on running the 33's

here are some more questions:

 

what is "UCA" and "CL".?????.....i dont know these terms yet

 

pathmaker1.....that is a nice rig...something i would like with 33's

 

i had bodylift on a old nissan p/u, would never put one of those on again

fenderworks

93 xe 180,000, 31's and wanting bigger

UCA = Upper Control Arm. They are the top suspension arms in the front end.

 

CL = Centerlink. It's the crossbar in the steering that connects your left and right wheels via the tie rods.

 

Body lifts on a Pathfinder are not that bad. They are not as difficult to install as some would have you think (yes some trucks due to rust and bolt seizing) are harder than others. I installed a 3in lift by my self and had next to no trouble at all.

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So with just a 3in sl i can run 33's? Has anyone had any gearing issues, or felt underpowered? Right now im debating on 32 or 33...

I think i can answer this good, I run 32/11.50r15 bfg all terrans on the road, I run 33/12.50r15 super swampers offroad. With the bfgs i don't notice much of a difference, With the swampers 5th gear is almost usless inless down hill or long flat. There is a huge difference from the 32s, to 33s if it is drove on the street allot the 32s are much better, if for offroad go 33s. This is all just my opinion but I run both so thought I would answer. on a side note the 32's should clear with a 3" SL with just a little trimming of inside fender wells at the bottoms. my 33s still rub a little with a 3" SL 3" bl and some trimming, but I do run no swaybar.

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I don't see how BL's are such a pain... I didn't have to adjust one thing when I did mine. Rad hoses stayed put, rad stayed put, shifters didn't need lengthening, gas filler and vent hose were fine.. only thing I had to do was unbolt my power steering pump and watch my lines.

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yea, i run the 31's and everything good with gearing.

I started this original post and i am thinking maybe i dont want to run 33's

because of the power loss. i too can climb just about anything, but i need the low first gear.

 

if first gear were any higher, it would not be good

 

fenderworks

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Well 32's seem like the way to go... Now i need to wait and see how my truck dried out, sank it last week right b4 my vacation, lets see if she dried out in a week...

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I run 33's with a 3"BL and 3"SL and no rear sway bar

never tip, 3 wheels once or twice but that just shakes off the mud/sand and rust when the wheel comes back down

(no more hairpin turn on-ramps at 75 and all 4 wheels stay on the ground)

3+3 werks fer me!-)

(I switch to my 31's on stock rims if there are alot of rocks as the 10.5 vs. 12.5 width makes a huge difference also

12.5's slip a bit more on muddy rocks (ask my rockers;-)

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  • 2 months later...
Sawsall makes it all possible....But realize you will have almost no front fender left.

 

Yup. Mine's on 33's and I have NO BODY LIFT AT ALL, just JGC springs and cranked torsions. I did have to smash the sh!t out of the front of the rocker panel with a sledge hammer to stop contact though! Sheet metal is so easy to mod.

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