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Ignition skipping.....


bryfry
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Hey folks,

It's been a while since I've been on here, but I need your help. You have all been very helpful in the past and I'm sure that has not changed. Now, I did do a search on the forum and found some information, but I want to share my problem with you just to verify what I'm thinking.

 

The problem started the recently on my '99 (built 9/98) with 90k on it. Driving from a dead cold, it's fine. Runs perfectly. After a while it starts to miss a bit, but not setting a code or a light. At first I thought a bit of water in the fuel might be the issue, but I've ruled that it's not fuel related. It was missing pretty good the other day and I dropped it into 2nd (auto trans) and reved it up to 4k RPM's and held it there as I drove. Finally, the MIL came on and it had the code P1336. Now, from what I've read, this CKP code may not be the cause of my problem. The crank sensor only reads if there is a misfire present and doesn't actually cause the misfire itself, right? If so, then am I looking at a distributor replacement? A $40 sensor I can handle, but a $300 dist. would be a pain. Prior to all of this, the truck has been perfect. In the two years that I've owned it, it has only gotten regular maintenance. I was getting ready to do the T-belt soon (with print-outs from this site!!), but that has nothing to do with this situation, I'm sure.

 

What has perplexed me is that it will not set any other codes. It doesn't seem like a "misfire", like a bad plug or wire, but a total ignition blip. I can see the tach dipping a bit everytime it happens. Reminded me of my wifes old Ford Escort when the dist module was on the way out. As if it was "talking" to me, letting me know that there is an impending failure of the ignition!

 

So, as it is, I'm putting it out there.....distributor? Or something else? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I do my own work and get my parts at a great discount (I work for a parts store!!) and I don't need to drive the truck everyday as I have a company car. So, I'm willing to take my time on this to make sure I'm fixing it right the first time. I cannot afford 5 hours labor in diagnosis right now from ANYONE, especially a dealer! All of you are very helpful and I appreciate this site when I need it!! Thanks!! :beer:

 

Brian

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Had P300 with my 98...changed all sorts of parts...I know now that Timing (BTDC as well as a strong dizzy), and injectors (being clean) are large parts of the actual missfire situation.

 

If you are getting a code for CKP, why not run the test procedures to see if it is faulty?

 

edit: P300 only happened after the truck was warm for me also...and I had a wideband o2 with a SAFC II to try to catch and correct the problem...no go. In retro spect I think that the injectors were failing at higher intake temps.

Edited by 02silverpathy
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Had P300 with my 98....

 

If you are getting a code for CKP, why not run the test procedures to see if it is faulty?

 

The only code it threw was the P1336.

 

I'll have to see if the procedure is in my manual I purchased on disc. I haven't even used it yet since I bought it two years ago!! LOL! I purchased the sensor today, so I'll check it out this weekend. More to come....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, here is the follow-up to my dilemma. It turned out to be the distributor. But, it was not due to the electronics failing. After testing fuel pressure and spark and finding both normal, I got a master tech friend involved. He grabbed his stethoscope and started probing around. He detected a noise that my drummer's ears could not and he found the noise coming from the dist. Here's what we found:

 

PathfinderDist002.jpg

Dust cover removed

 

PathfinderDist003.jpg

Rotor shaft and reluctor wheel

 

PathfinderDist004.jpg

Stub shaft. Note the score marks.

 

PathfinderDist005.jpg

Module and gasket

 

PathfinderDist007.jpg

Ignitor/coil

 

PathfinderDist009.jpg

Main shaft bearing. Note cover coming off!

 

PathfinderDist012.jpg

Uh...it's like...toast.

 

PathfinderDist014.jpg

The remnants....

 

So, the shaft would heat up and walk around causing the reluctor wheel to move in and out and thus causing the ignition burps. When cooled, the bearing would spin a bit better, therefore the normal running when cold. As it heated, it jsut got worse. Eventually it would have seized and then it could have been a huge mess. The electronics worked normal, just a mechanical failure. Oh, BTW, my truck has 92k on it. There you have it! Hope it helps someone in the future. A side note, the crank sensor is a major pain to get out!!!!!!! WOW!!!

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Thanks alot... I just hate it when people have a problem, then fix it and don't tell the forum about it... This is perfect and IT will be usefull for someone, i'm sure...

 

Great explanation and good pictures...way to go !

 

S.

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Good Stuff. Glad to see the problem solved! Just like fleurys said, it sucks when people don't post what the problem was, or just say "never mind, found the problem" and thats it! Only 92k? Hmm....maybe i'll take a looks at my distributor to see if all is well on my 96 with 157k on the odo...

 

Jose

:)

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yeesh, mildly upsetting. I am wondering whole heartedly if this was the entire p300 code I had for my 98~~the reason I sold it. I had a new dizzy and super injector cleaning, all valve tolerence checked/re-checked and a good Nissan dealership shop checking over it....all this took place after I had JWT S1 cams installed, I am sold that this may have been the secret problem the truck had!!

 

...had 114K on the ODO but the 32's messed with the real mileage.

Edited by 02silverpathy
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Thanks for the props, guys. I feel the same way as you do when you don't get the answer or the whole story. Since I work in parts, I'm always looking for information to help my customers (the techs who fix these things!!!) and when I find it, I pass it along.

 

Believe it or not, I had this dist in stock and was able to fix it right away. It fits anything with the 3.3 from 1996 to 2004; Quest, Frontier, Pathy, Xterra, QX4 and don't forget the Mercury Villager. It ain't cheap either. We sell it for $320 dealer net. I got a major price reduction (I'm an operations manager, so I lobbied the owner!!) and only paid $200. The part number in Cardone (a major rebuilder-if you buy it in another brand, more than likely they rebuilt it and put in someone else's box) is #31-58600. A new one from these guys is part #84-58600 and it comes with cap and rotor. It's only a bit more in price, so if you want new instead of rebuilt.....but it may be hard to find.

 

I haven't been around here in a while, but I missed hanging here. You guys are great when I need you (which hasn't been that often!! Pathy runs awesome!) and you always give advice to ponder and praise when necessary. It was through these posts that I replaced my hubs with Warn units, did all of my brakes and exhaust. Other than that and oil changes, all I've ever done is drive my Pathy. It's been very reliable.

 

Up next: T-belt change!!! All new hoses, belts, etc. I'll post a thread with pics when I'm into it. Probably in a month or so.

 

Thanks again!

 

B

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  • 8 years later...

I am stuck a thousand miles from home with the P1336 code. Vehicle runs well when cold but then starts to act up as per the original description in this section. Waiting for a new crank sensor to arrive. It seems strange that this sensor is not required to control the engine. Other vehicles won't start without a crank sensor.

 

Is it a given that the distributor will have to be replaced as well or are there other likely culprits? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

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Sounds like a distributor. Very common on the r50. Non coil pack vehicles dont need a crank sensor to operate. The wd21s dont even have a crank and separate cam sensor.

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Yep definitely sound like a distributor. I've had the same problem multiple times and the distributor always fixes it. It's super easy and cheap to do, you can get a new one for like 50 bucks on amazon and it only takes about 20 minutes to put in.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Distributor-Pathfinder-Frontier-221001W601/dp/B072KR47JN/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522082881&vehicle=1996-67-893-------------0&sr=1-3&ymm=1996%3Anissan%3Apathfinder&keywords=1996+nissan+pathfinder+distributor&dpID=4132fbG-f2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

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Yep definitely sound like a distributor. I've had the same problem multiple times and the distributor always fixes it. It's super easy and cheap to do, you can get a new one for like 50 bucks on amazon and it only takes about 20 minutes to put in.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Distributor-Pathfinder-Frontier-221001W601/dp/B072KR47JN/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522082881&vehicle=1996-67-893-------------0&sr=1-3&ymm=1996%3Anissan%3Apathfinder&keywords=1996+nissan+pathfinder+distributor&dpID=4132fbG-f2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNqiMSD8al0

Not going against the cheaper route but I've had no luck at all with aftermarket distributors. Everyone I've ever installed craps out almost immediately. I would go with a reman or a brand new one or the cheapest route go to a junkyard and pull one out of another Pathfinder, Qx4, Xterra or Frontier. I've had great luck with junk yard pulls.

 

Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk

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Not going against the cheaper route but I've had no luck at all with aftermarket distributors. Everyone I've ever installed craps out almost immediately. I would go with a reman or a brand new one or the cheapest route go to a junkyard and pull one out of another Pathfinder, Qx4, Xterra or Frontier. I've had great luck with junk yard pulls.

 

Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I've heard similar things from a lot of people... but the one I got for 50 bucks lasted 3 years and I just replaced it with the same one again this year when it went bad. Obviously a more expensive one is probably better but for the price you can't beat it, especially considering I can't afford anything more lol

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Yeah I've heard similar things from a lot of people... but the one I got for 50 bucks lasted 3 years and I just replaced it with the same one again this year when it went bad. Obviously a more expensive one is probably better but for the price you can't beat it, especially considering I can't afford anything more lol

3 years is along time so it's worth a shot.

 

Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk

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I ordered a new one from Rock Auto a few days ago. Should be here today.

 

Is the old distributor rebuildable?

Let us know what the outcome is. Good luck.

 

Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...

We made it back home yesterday. A few days after my last post, we got the new distributor in. Problem cured. Thank you to everyone who posted suggestions. Looking forward to rebuilding the old distributor to keep as a spare.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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