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IS MY PATHY DEAD?


janolopsen
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Hi:

I´m from Buenos Aires Argentina

Haven´t been around for a while because i had some big problems with my car.

I made the second largest trip with my Pathy to Brasil and everything went really fine.

Made 1800 Kms from Buenos Aires Argentina to Florianopolis Brasil with no problems at all. The trip was mostly in highways and paved roads. Never drived at more than 75 or 80 MPH and the Pathy was doing a really good job.

But after 24 days of vacations and in my way back to Argentina after 600 Kms and 1400 Kms away from home with my family (wife and 3 kids) while I was driving into Porto Alegre in a 3 way Highway a sudden Bumb in the front part of my car froze my blood. The engine broked. No hints no advice. Was driving like in a jet plane at 65 Mph (100 Km/h) with cruis control at 2100 Rpm, no noise, no smoke, no sudden movements. The engine didn´t even consumed any extra oil. (Even in my house´s parking lot was not a single drop of it or water) but....

After 3 days of ordeal taking my family and SUV to Buenos Aires argentina... The Mechanic took a look at the Pathy and found a big hole in the dry sump engine oil tank. The Prognosis...

 

A Piston Rod broke of and damaged the block. The problem is that here in Argentina we do not have to much spare parts for this model (SE V6 3.0 ). Do you know of any adaptation or alternative that lets the Pathy be fully functional again? I mean Diesel or Gas Engine alternative even from other brands like Hyundai, Toyota, Ford of GM... because no new replacement prebuild engines are available here in my country for my badly injured Pathy.

Have anyone adapted other Nissan engines to the Nissan SE V6? I mean Diesel`s like D21 or D22 etc. or Car Engines like the Datson or Nissan Coupes??

 

Please let me know

 

Meanwhile I´ll post some pics of the Piston Rod damaged.

 

DSC00585.jpg

DSC00584.jpg

DSC00583.jpg

Edited by janolopsen
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Is the actual engine block damaged, or did it just go through the oil pan?

 

If the block is not cracked, talk to a machine shop about putting a sleeve in that cylinder.

 

If the block is cracked, it's garbage.

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As far as we know it´s possible the block is damaged, although we haven´t taken off the engine yet, my mechanic poured some water in it and the liquid spilled all over the floor, so maybe the fluids circuit of the engine is compromised too... :thumbsdown:

Edited by janolopsen
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If you're planning on doing anything with it, the motor would have to come out anyways, so get it pulled, and take the oil pan off it.

 

Get a good look at what your dealing with, then decide if you can fix the existing, or go for a full swap.

 

You might decide that its not worth putting that much money into it anyways, and just look for a complete used truck.

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The Holden (GMC/Chevy?) 4.3 liter swap is popular down in Australia, but I don't remember what is required to bolt it up. I can try to search for it later.

The 2.4 liter motor can be used but you would need the tranny and perhaps drive shafts so a donor vehicle would be best. It is a weak motor though.

The 3.3 liter out of a 1996-2000 Terrano would be the best/easiest swap.

The 2.7 liter diesel is also a good choice; I believe they use the same tranny.

 

Honestly, your best bet would be to find/import a crashed vehicle as a donor/parts car. :shrug:

 

B

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  • 2 months later...

Well. have some good news

 

1rst. the reason why the rod came out the block was that one piston got stuck!.

The reason? I think there was some foul play with my mechanic´s new asistant.

He told me with his voice trembling that he had taken the truck to change oil and

his voice was trembling while he showed me the empty can of "Elf Competition semi-syntetic oil"

I`ve found same procedure with my gearbox oil a couple a months before the

engine incident. So the guy made my motor get seriously injured just to rip me off

of 50 o 100 U$s!!!!

 

Next time I´ll take the truck by myself to change the oil.

 

The result was an Engine Block injured in the bottom corner with a hole of aprox. 9 centimeters

a broken piston, a twisted rod, a punctured cylinder chamber, etc. etc. etc.

 

The good news.

 

BOUGHT A NEW ENGINE. Here in Argentina for 1300 U$s (give or take)

 

Now I have my new engine block. The rebuilding process will start as soon I collect the money.

 

 

more news to come and thnxs again for the support...

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I'm not sure I understand why it happened, but congrats on finding a new engine!! I hope the install goes as smoothly as possible and that you are back on the road (or off it :D ) as soon as possible!! :beer:

 

B

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I'm not sure I understand why it happened, but congrats on finding a new engine!! I hope the install goes as smoothly as possible and that you are back on the road (or off it :D ) as soon as possible!! :beer:

 

B

 

what i was trying to say is that I suspect that my EX mechanic asistant put 2nd class

oil in my engine instead of semi syntetic ELF OIL as is ordered... just to make a difference with the price

at my expense...

 

the problem is that i have no sustainable evidence of it

 

that caused the piston to stuck and the rod to break the block...

:crossedwires:

Edited by janolopsen
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  • 3 months later...

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