MadManMike Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Hey guys.. As you probably read, there is a ticking noise coming from my engine. I have assumed for about 6 months now that it was just the Exhaust manifolds ticking, but I had the manifolds done this summer and the ticking still exists. And yes I have checked and changed my oil in the last 6 months. The sound comes and goes like:....bbbrrrrrtick......TICK TICK TICKTICK..tick...brrrrrr and seems to go away once the car gets warm. So I am really not sure what is next.... I tried SEAFOAM last spring, with no results. Any suggestions? A little video that you may be able to hear the ticking on, I tried the video with the hood open first but the engine noise drowned it out.... so that's why the hood is shut in this video. Link to video***Linky***Linky***Linky***Linky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 I can hear the ticking, and that does sound strange. I would give the engine and engine bay a good once over to make sure nothing is loose, and then go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Ok, I have a similar sound, not as bad coming from the left (passenger) bank of cylinders. It does fade in and out with intensity, silent to noise to silent with the same regularity at idle(I presume). I have no idea what this is... Oil pump not feeding the lifters? No clue... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 My vote is for the lifters.... mine did the exact same thing a few years ago. The lifters, which are hydraulic, are bleeding down (aka draining) while the engine is off, if the sound does go away after it has been running for a few as you mentioned, then they are refilling. Mine also did that at first, but eventually it led to replacement of them. I had two or three of them on one side doing it. However, since I was in there I just replaced them all on that side. Get yourself an automotive stethoscope (couple bucks at Harbor Freight) and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Using that tool you will be able to ID exactly which ones are tapping IIRC it was about $100 (at Puyallup Nissan, best price I could find) for all the lifters on one side, and I did the work myself which save a lot of money there. It's not hard just be sure to torque everything correctly (spec and pattern), if it comes down to replacing them. My current engine, which was used is starting to develop a lifter tap on cold mornings. But based on the old one (the one I replaced them in) I should still have a long time before they get to bad... hopefully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Ok, thanks Red!! Get yourself an automotive stethoscope (couple bucks at Harbor Freight and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Using that tool you will be able to ID exactly which ones are tapping thumbsup.gif Ya, I have one. At what point do you know they need replacing and not just making unimportant noise? (mine is hard to hear over normal engine noise unless you are obsessive like me) . But based on the old one (the one I replaced them in) I should still have a long time before they get to bad... hopefully biggrin.gif Like I said, what is bad? (first motor with hydraulic lifters) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Ok, thanks Red!!Ya, I have one. At what point do you know they need replacing and not just making unimportant noise? (mine is hard to hear over normal engine noise unless you are obsessive like me) Like I said, what is bad? (first motor with hydraulic lifters) B Now I am no expert on this but... the noise should go away quickly and I would say within a few minutes at the most, if they do not then it's time to do something about it. I personally waited until it was nearly ten minutes before mine stopped ticking. At that point, I personally could just not stand it any longer Bleed down is normal and those under pressure, due to the position of the cam when the engine stopped, will bleed down faster. But as I understand it, were are normally talking about days of bleed down (between startups) before they would make such a noise. If they are tapping after only sitting a short time then they are worn, or as you will find in the link below, it could just be old oil causing the problem. Other reasons could be normal wear on the surface of the lifter and camshaft lobes where they meet. Technical - Hydraulic Lifters "VW Specific" *As the link name implies that artical is about VW's but it gives a lot of info on Hydraulic Lifters, from basic info and on to how they work.* I read in another article that HL's have been nicknamed by some as "The best oil filter in your engine" because they can trap dirt in the oil as small as 1 micro, while oil filters only trap 5 micron sized particles and larger. Trapping this dirt also causes a lifter to wear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 (edited) I use 1qt of lucas oil when I do my oil change, since I started doing so my lifter tap completely goes away unill its close to time for the next oil change (about 3000mi maybe a few hundred more) I think the lucas oil reduces the amount of leakdown you get from the lifters and keeps em quiet. EDIT: from redpath88's link "Lifters that bleed down regularly indicate wear or old oil" LOL so mine automatically tell me when to change the oil Edited September 28, 2008 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91PathSE Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Simple answer...well atleast when mine ticks......INJECTORS...they do it regularly....nothing to worry about... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 My lifters only tick for like 2 seconds when cold, and that's only if its REALLY cold or the pathy sits for a couple of weeks. I also found going to a synthetic oil eliminated the tapping on slightly cool days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 My lifters only tick for like 2 seconds when cold, and that's only if its REALLY cold or the pathy sits for a couple of weeks. I also found going to a synthetic oil eliminated the tapping on slightly cool days. Mine are the same, and someone said that using a non backflow filter would even eliminate that short tick at startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 (edited) Mine are the same, and someone said that using a non backflow filter would even eliminate that short tick at startup. Yeah I was told the same. It's called an anti-drain back valve I think. Madmanmike, maybe try and use a heavier weight oil.... like a 15w40 or 20w50, and see if that makes any difference. Edited September 28, 2008 by redfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Simple answer...well atleast when mine ticks......INJECTORS...they do it regularly....nothing to worry about... my injectors tick (or click) my oem ones were silent untill the passenger side one started to die(injector leak ecu code and overly rich exhaust smell) then it was really loud. My python injectors click qietly and are almost inaudiable once I'm 1/8 or more on the temp guage. Yeah I was told the same. It's called an anti-drain back valve I think. Madmanmike, maybe try and use a heavier weight oil.... like a 15w40 or 20w50, and see if that makes any difference. most oil filters have one built in, its the rubber looking suff in the outer holes, orangeish colored on the fram filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlion Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 I have the same issues on a cold morning in my '96. They stop when the engine warms up. It sounds like lifter tap in mine, yours sounds different. Mine tick constsntly 'till about a needle width on the temp guage. I'll follow this thread in hopes that someone comes up with a solution/ cheap fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 28, 2008 Author Share Posted September 28, 2008 Thanks for all the replies... I will try a few things and see If I can pinpoint where it is coming from. It's due for an oil change now.. so I will try a heavier weight oil. Oh and during the summer it pretty much dies down.... But when it starts getting cold out like right now... it really gets loud in the mornings. -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 Oh and during the summer it pretty much dies down.... But when it starts getting cold out like right now... it really gets loud in the mornings.-Mike Again the same symptoms mine had, which the lifter replacement solved. I can't speak for the injector tick, as mine has never done that (and the current injectors are aftermarket). but even if they had, it would have been easily distinguished because my injectors are no where near the lifters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 most oil filters have one built in, its the rubber looking suff in the outer holes, orangeish colored on the fram filters. Actually, most DON'T have it on them. Not to mention Fram are bad for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 29, 2008 Author Share Posted September 29, 2008 Actually, most DON'T have it on them. Not to mention Fram are bad for you. So, if I got one would it help out the cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 So, if I got one would it help out the cause? Only at start up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 Actually, most DON'T have it on them. Not to mention Fram are bad for you. how so? never had a problem so far been using fram tough-guard for a few years now, am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 how so? never had a problem so far been using fram tough-guard for a few years now, am I missing something? Cardboard end cap glued inside..... http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfi.../reference.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 For what it's worth, on my side I had a v6 engine which was clicking about 5X times louder than yours...the mechanics all said that the lifter were shot and new heads were to be changed for it to fix the problem... I tried a bottle of engine restorer 6 cylinders (silver bottle) and within 48 hours the clicking was pratically gone... It saved some time and after a year the clicking was still not back... I eventually sold the car and the clicking had not return.... So I guess you can believe or not these kind of products, but for me, i know , it made a huge difference... What do you got to loose....it cost about 15$... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted October 4, 2008 Author Share Posted October 4, 2008 (edited) Okay so a little bit of an update. So I changed my oil to a heavier weight last week... and It still makes the ticking noise. Actually it seems to be worse (or at least last for a longer time). I have a 8-10min drive to school and it almost ticks the whole time. Once it is warm it's fine. And I tried to pinpoint the sound using a piece of pvc pipe as my stethoscope , it seems to be coming from right were the exhaust manifold is on the passenger side. I think I may switch back to a thinner oil so it won't last so long, any one else use this "Engine Restore" stuff? I am kind of scared to. I hope I can get through this winter with out replacing it... after $500 worth of exhaust work this summer and my balding tires that need to be replaced VERY soon... I won't be able to afford it. <Start rant> Well lets see, this car cost me $2400 a 2 years ago... last year I put in new timing belt, radiator, starter, belts, waterpump, thermostat, shocks. For a total of about $700 in parts. Then the manifolds go bad... hmm another $400... then the exhaust falls apart (exhaust shop ripped me off $200).. and now hydraulic lifters and new tires (another $600 for tires). Bought it at 103k it now has 113k and has cost me nearly $1900 in repairs. </End rant> Seems like a car this new shouldn't need this much repair. But I guess still cheaper than a car payment -Mike Edited October 4, 2008 by MadManMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Seems like a car this new shouldn't need this much repair. But I guess still cheaper than a car payment Well, unfortunately, you bought a car that needed a lot of work, which is probably why the PO was getting rid of it. The GOOD news is that with only 113k on the truck and knowing that the work has been done, it should run trouble free for many years (baring the usual starter/alternator/battery stuff that happens with any car). Hang in there, it's worth the trouble... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Cardboard end cap glued inside..... http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfi.../reference.html Thanks, thats A neat article. I didn't know about the cardboard. however, the Fram Tough gaurd (what I use) is actually on the reccomended list while the other 2 FRAM models are on the avoid list. Being that the tough guard is on the lower $$ range but still on the reccmended list and always available @ my parts store, unlike some of the others ,I will continue using @ my own risk. Boy that guy had allot of time on his hands! and now I know what defantly not to buy and why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Yeah I had a frame wearguard and the oil was dark after 3000 miles. I put a motomaster (Canadian tire brand) filter on before adventure weekend, and I'm coming up on 3k again, and the oil is still relatively clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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