zeppelindrummer Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 The Pathy has been running great for the last 4 months or so. I took it up wheeling, and ran into a bit of trouble on the way back. I had no problems with leaking coolant or anything once i had got up there (Thinking about it now though, it could have leaked in the dirt, and i wouldn't have noticed) On the way back home, me and my friend stopped in Breckenridge for his mom's art show, i parked the pathy in a lot, and came back about 20 minutes later... to my surprise there was a ton of coolant that had leaked out of my car. I saw the green liquid and figured my car overheated, and had filled up the overflow reservoir and pissed everywhere.... nope. Nowhere around the radiator, T-stat, or any of the hoses was a drip of antifreeze. It had filled up my skid plate, and was dripping from further back than the radiator. Today i looked at my car, took off the skid plate, and saw where the dripping was coming from... kinda. Is my waterpump shot? or, what are some other possible things that could have gone wrong? Video of leak. Drip location Puddle of Coolant, after car sat for very little time. Leaks very quickly, and takes alot to fill it up after the engine is on. (about a half container of Coolant) Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 i can't see the pics from work but if it's looking like it's leaking from the pump then it's leaking from the pump. mine does that and it has gotten pretty bad but i still refill it with just water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 7, 2008 Share Posted July 7, 2008 look at the snout of the Water pump on the bottom side, theres a little hole... there is also the Upper By-Pass hose(Slick) From the looks of it, you got coolant on the timing belt, If you pull the pump your going to need to pull the belt to get to the pump... its not that bad of a process... just takes patients and a Harmonic Balancer Puller... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 the way the pics look i'd say the bypass hose but from the vid i'd say the pump.. you will have to get down in there and hunt it down. good luck mang. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowManR6 Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 the way the pics look i'd say the bypass hose but from the vid i'd say the pump.. you will have to get down in there and hunt it down. good luck mang. i just had a similar problem about a month ago, replaced the water pump and *walla* leak fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted July 8, 2008 Author Share Posted July 8, 2008 Cool, thanks! i just checked on water pumps and they are less expensive than i was thinking. I had a good night at work tonight. a 95 dollar monday, good tips!.. anyway, i think i'll just replace the water pump, and i've been wanting to replace the timing belt, so while i'm at it i may as well. 75 bucks for the two parts doesn't sound like a bad idea. Any tips on replacing a water pump, or... the timing belt for that matter? My friend just recently replaced the belt in his 4runner, and he has the tools for it, so i'll head to his house. Thanks again guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Any tips on replacing a water pump, or... the timing belt for that matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowManR6 Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Cool, thanks! i just checked on water pumps and they are less expensive than i was thinking. I had a good night at work tonight. a 95 dollar monday, good tips!.. anyway, i think i'll just replace the water pump, and i've been wanting to replace the timing belt, so while i'm at it i may as well. 75 bucks for the two parts doesn't sound like a bad idea. Any tips on replacing a water pump, or... the timing belt for that matter? My friend just recently replaced the belt in his 4runner, and he has the tools for it, so i'll head to his house. Thanks again guys! I was gonna suggest that you do ur timing belt since it's going to have to come off anyways, but your already ahead of the ball game. just make sure you dont do the tensioner too tight, or ur gonna have to reset it (sucks to have to pull everything off again when u hear the noise) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 8, 2008 Share Posted July 8, 2008 Cool, thanks! i just checked on water pumps and they are less expensive than i was thinking. I had a good night at work tonight. a 95 dollar monday, good tips!.. anyway, i think i'll just replace the water pump, and i've been wanting to replace the timing belt, so while i'm at it i may as well. 75 bucks for the two parts doesn't sound like a bad idea. Any tips on replacing a water pump, or... the timing belt for that matter? My friend just recently replaced the belt in his 4runner, and he has the tools for it, so i'll head to his house. Thanks again guys! Make sure you clean ALL the coolant off where the belt is. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 So, i have finally gotten around to finishing up the replacement of the waterpump. Got back from my cruise a few days ago, and realized. i have no car! I got the water pump in, no problem, found, that the gasket in the old one had broken out, and thats why it was leaking from there. Put the new one in, got all new belts, and i'm in the process of putting on the new Timing belt. i'm just a little unsure of a couple things, and rather than guessing and hoping for the best, i'd better turn to the pros! I've found the dimples on both of the upper pulleys, as well as the lower ones, and dont know exactly what to do. There are the marks on the new timing belt, so i need to line the three dimples, with the three straight lines- correct? and at that, i'm moving the upper two pulleys, and they just spring back so its hard to get them, to line up. I'm especially concerned with the lower ones, because i can't get it to move at all (i haven't tried a ton, but from what i have tried its not movin much) I saw on the write up for installing the new timing belt, that the upper two pulleys had been taken off. do i need to do that? or can i use a strap wrench, or something to turn the pulleys, to get them to line up? I'm thinkin thats all i've got right now. but i'll be back later... i'm gonna head back out and look at it some more. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 First of all, you don't need to remove the cam pulleys. That is only if you're replacing the cam seals. When you get the belt on there should be 40 teeth (on the belt) between the 2 white lines. All 3 pulleys, or cogs if you will have to move all at the same time or else the timing will go out and you might damage the engine! I also see that you used the sealer on the wp. Good job Some more experienced members will obviously be able to help you better than me but you have my # to txt if you need to ask something quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 it's 43 teeth. but anyhoo, no, you don't have to remove cam sprockets.... just make sure they are lined up with the marks on the back plate. be sure not to overtighten the belt..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 So, after re-reading my post. i didn't even really ask what i posted this for in the first place. The upper two cams, have fallen, because i haven't had a belt on for about 3 days, (i was replacing it, and the spring on the tensioner broke, so i got one today. Lucky me, 3 bucks from one of the tech guys at the dealership down the street!) The pistons seem to have settled, which have moved the cams. I had marked their original positions, so its just a matter of getting them back to where they were. The right one is only 2 teeth away, and its no problem to get back, however. the left one has moved about 8 teeth, and its impossible to get it back without forcing it. I don't want to hurt anything... any suggestions? or is forcing it what i'm gonna have to do? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 it's a bit tricky, but you CAN just turn 1 cam to readjust it. I've done it. trouble when you do that..... damn thing "jumps" so sometimes it takes several attempts before it will "jump" into the right place. mine was still 1 tooth off the mark when i was done turning it. or, you can go old school with it and keep turning the engine over until it all hits TDC again........ usually 10 turns outta do it. i can't see HOW the one cam "turned" as you say (unless someone was f'n with it) without "help". an engine doesn't turn itself....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 (edited) it's a bit tricky, but you CAN just turn 1 cam to readjust it. I've done it. trouble when you do that..... damn thing "jumps" so sometimes it takes several attempts before it will "jump" into the right place. mine was still 1 tooth off the mark when i was done turning it. yeah, sooooooooo. so i should just keep turnin it til it gets into place? the mark i have is at about the 2:30 position, (left cam) and i need it at the 12 oclock position. is it okay to do it counterclockwise? or should i spin it all around clockwise? (like it normally spins when run) Edited July 29, 2008 by zeppelindrummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 clockwise and it will take several attempts, as i said, they "jump"....... big jumps...... so be patient, you can't force it..... but eventually it will set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Awesome!!! Thanks Slick! i'll get on that tomorrow after work! i miss my truck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 I suggest you replace the t-stat and the coolant bypass hose while your in there. Both are cheap and would save one heck of a headache if 200 miles down the road the hose or t-stat goes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breemania Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 So, after re-reading my post. i didn't even really ask what i posted this for in the first place. The upper two cams, have fallen, because i haven't had a belt on for about 3 days, (i was replacing it, and the spring on the tensioner broke, so i got one today. Lucky me, 3 bucks from one of the tech guys at the dealership down the street!) The pistons seem to have settled, which have moved the cams. I had marked their original positions, so its just a matter of getting them back to where they were. The right one is only 2 teeth away, and its no problem to get back, however. the left one has moved about 8 teeth, and its impossible to get it back without forcing it. I don't want to hurt anything... any suggestions? or is forcing it what i'm gonna have to do? Thanks! Also see my post on Timing Belt Problems. Search Timing Belt. The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job. when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT! The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket. If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me. If you still have questions send me your phone # and Ill be happy to answer any questions you have and give you a few tips on the job. Breemania Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 I suggest you replace the t-stat and the coolant bypass hose while your in there. Both are cheap and would save one heck of a headache if 200 miles down the road the hose or t-stat goes out. Yeah! i actually just replaced the t-stat about 2 months ago, and got the bypass hose!! Also see my post on Timing Belt Problems. Search Timing Belt. The Solution was to get a strap around the passengers side cam and turn it counter clockwise and line the dots up perfectly and then match to the lines on the belt perfectly, but we already know about the dots. All three must line up perfectly with the belt at TDC. The issue was that the Cam had moved and I did not have it set to TDC at start of the job. when you first try to turn the cam backwards (passengers side) there will be a lot of spring tension and at first it sprang back too far and then I had to turn it clockwise, and then do it again, turning counter clock wise very, very slowly but then I GOT IT! The Strap I used for this was a RED Snap on Oil Filter Change strap. It wraped nicely around the cam sprocket. If any one ever needs help or has any questions on this contact me. If you still have questions send me your phone # and Ill be happy to answer any questions you have and give you a few tips on the job. Breemania Thanks!! me and my dad got to work on it this morning, and we finished! thanks for the offer breemania, and thats exactly what we had to do! just spring forward, spring back, til we got it. no leaks or anything outta my new water pump, driving my pathy again is AMAZING! i've missed it, and i'm really happy to have it running again, especially with... pretty much no problems... Thanks again everybody! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 now for the one... problem. its running, and feels great, however there is a small sound. it sounds like something is rubbing... almost like a squeak. could my timing belt be rubbing on the t-belt cover? or could one of my cams, or belt pulleys/belts be too tight? i'll be runnin it to the mechanic down the street tomorrow morning to see what he says. hopefully its nothin too big! *crosses fingers* Thanks! -zeppelindrummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 now for the one... problem. its running, and feels great, however there is a small sound. it sounds like something is rubbing... almost like a squeak. could my timing belt be rubbing on the t-belt cover? or could one of my cams, or belt pulleys/belts be too tight? i'll be runnin it to the mechanic down the street tomorrow morning to see what he says. hopefully its nothin too big! *crosses fingers* Thanks! -zeppelindrummer It Could be that. Mine made a kind of an eeeeeeeeeee noise for a bit even before my timing belt was changed but it just went away . Maybe your a/c idler pulley is going? Mine used to make one hell of a squawking noise when the truck was cold in the Canadian winter. Could be a noise that was masked by other noises before.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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