Anybody Sea Foam a 3.5?

[Avus Blur]

I ordered new O2 sensors and was thinking about sea foaming the old girl and then changing the oil in hopes of getting back some MPGs and getting rid of the check engine light.

 

I ran sea foam through my M3 and didnt really notice anything, but I tend to run that much harder so I would think it would have less build up than the Pathy. I was just curious if anyone else has done it and if it was worth messing with.

 

P.S. I am getting around 16 mpg around town. Is that normal?

 

P.S. What is the market value of 01 SE 5-speed with 95K? Im thinking about trying to sell it for something more economical, like a Mazda 3 hatch or older GTI, but dont want to drop a lot of additional cash.

[02silverpathy]

Agghhh Cornholio! Don't peace out the Pathy!! Yes 16 MPG in town is good...I am just now getting back to 15.2 MPG in town. I have 32"s, AC lift +1" spacer, Heavy triple 12" sub box to slow me down.

 

 

To lighten the load on the engine back up I have:

 

Warn Hubs (open saves MPG or 2),

Autozone "Sceptre" intake (smooth, no ribs, or resonator boxes + open element filter),

I have bypassed the coolant line on the intake (keeps power available by not heating up the whole intake manifold),

Finally, now 4.63 gears (vs. 4.36 which help me get around town much easier), I have always wanted to do this swap...Thanks SammyB !!

I am hunting down lighter wheels as we speak, and plan to free up the exhaust juuuust a little bit....replace muffler with a Flowmaster 50 series and from muffler back 2.5 inch pipe, possibly 2" pipe before muffler--funds will dictate.

 

Those things will indeed lighten the load on the engine and free up power that the engine already produces to help with MPG's...I also insist that using 1 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil during oil change with my other 3.25 full synth. I think that using Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricat/Fuel Injector cleaner every tank of gas helps also...but those last few things are just my opinion.

 

Luckily you do have a 5 SPD so you too dictate its MPG's...I got the auto-tragic so.....Sea-foam...never tried it but seems to work for lots of folks...I would do it before you put those sweet new sensors in!!

Edited May 30, 2008 by 02silverpathy

[Avus Blur]

Agghhh Cornholio! Don't peace out the Pathy!! Yes 16 MPG in town is good...I am just now getting back to 15.2 MPG in town. I have 32"s, AC lift +1" spacer, Heavy triple 12" sub box to slow me down.

To lighten the load on the engine back up I have:

 

Warn Hubs (open saves MPG or 2),

Autozone "Sceptre" intake (smooth, no ribs, or resonator boxes + open element filter),

I have bypassed the coolant line on the intake (keeps power available by not heating up the whole intake manifold),

Finally, now 4.63 gears (vs. 4.36 which help me get around town much easier), I have always wanted to do this swap...Thanks SammyB !!

I am hunting down lighter wheels as we speak, and plan to free up the exhaust juuuust a little bit....replace muffler with a Flowmaster 50 series and from muffler back 2.5 inch pipe, possibly 2" pipe before muffler--funds will dictate.

 

Those things will indeed lighten the load on the engine and free up power that the engine already produces to help with MPG's...I also insist that using 1 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil during oil change with my other 3.25 full synth. I think that using Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricat/Fuel Injector cleaner every tank of gas helps also...but those last few things are just my opinion.

 

Luckily you do have a 5 SPD so you too dictate its MPG's...I got the auto-tragic so.....Sea-foam...never tried it but seems to work for lots of folks...I would do it before you put those sweet new sensors in!!

 

Ive thought about the hubs. They arent too expensive and seem like a good investment for the longivity of the front drivetrain as well. Just havent had the time to do them. Hopefully I can do them this summer.

 

Other than that, I have just kept the Pathy stock, minus the stereo. I need it to be working all the time when I have the M3 in pieces.

 

Ill probably go ahead and sea foam the best just for giggles and post how it turns out. The M3 coughed up a ton of white smoke and I bet the Pathy can beat it.

[02silverpathy]

No doubt!

 

The hubs are super easy and less than new 02 sensors...once you see on XPLORx4's site how to swap them...it will take no time at all !!

[CALPATHY]

No doubt!

 

The hubs are super easy and less than new 02 sensors...once you see on XPLORx4's site how to swap them...it will take no time at all !!

 

I gained 1 mpg on the highway after installing free wheeling hubs.

[FUELER]

not sure about mpg, and mine aint no VG35, but i did notice my 3.3L engine runs "healthier" and pulls harder after seafoam....

[csutke]

P.S. I am getting around 16 mpg around town. Is that normal?

 

Im getting around 18 in town with mine, but its also an 04 so it a little newer.

 

I have bypassed the coolant line on the intake (keeps power available by not heating up the whole intake manifold),

 

What do you mean by this? Do you have pics or a link to a write up? Was it easy/cheap?

[02silverpathy]

Im getting around 18 in town with mine, but its also an 04 so it a little newer.

What do you mean by this? Do you have pics or a link to a write up? Was it easy/cheap?

 

 

Real easy, even cheaper! Right below the throttle body there is an inlet out let hose. when you are facing the mouth of the TB the one hose comes from more or less the fire wall and enters the TB and then leaves the TB coming right out toward you...a simple 3/8" vacuum tee and some clamps (extra slack in the heater hose if you wish), a small amount of coolant loss and voila! Tee between hoses and clamped, now drive around and feel the intake manifold....much cooler!! You WILL notice that the engines power does not seem to fade as the engine warms up.....I have not wanted to put mine lines back on long enough to see if that geratly affected my MPG's....here's the deal

 

Warm air entering the engine is more efficient due to already being close to the cylinders ambient temp (takes less fuel to go bang!)

Cooler air entering the engine is more powerful due to your engine adjusting to the knock, 02's etc(takes more fuel makes a bigger boom!)

*****In theory this should reduce MPG's, however there is the idea that there is no power loss to propel the truck, soo in turn YOU should use less gas?!??***

 

 

Personally, I like the power on demand ! This is an old-school Honda trick...but I don't know if that is where it originated.

Edited July 12, 2008 by 02silverpathy

[csutke]

cool can you snap me a pic if you get a chance?

[laxman0324]

Real easy, even cheaper! Right below the throttle body there is an inlet out let hose. when you are facing the mouth of the TB the one hose comes from more or less the fire wall and enters the TB and then leaves the TB coming right out toward you...a simple 3/8" vacuum tee and some clamps (extra slack in the heater hose if you wish), a small amount of coolant loss and voila! Tee between hoses and clamped, now drive around and feel the intake manifold....much cooler!! You WILL notice that the engines power does not seem to fase as the engine warms up.....I have not wanted to put mine lines back on long enough to see if that geratly affected my MPG's....here's the deal

 

Warm air entering the engine is more efficient due to already being close to the cylinders ambient temp (takes less fuel to go bang!)

Cooler air entering the engine is more powerful due to your engine adjusting to the knock, 02's etc(takes more fuel makes a bigger boom!)

*****In theory this should reduce MPG's, however there is the idea that there is no power loss to propel the truck, soo in turn YOU should use less gas?!??***

Personally, I like the power on demand ! This is an old-school Honda trick...but I don't know if that is where it originated.

Ive heard of this before and was thinking about trying it...so all you did was removed those coolant lines from the throttle body and clamped a small piece of plastic onto either vacuum line? So does the line now sit above or below the TB?

[laxman0324]

cool can you snap me a pic if you get a chance?

Check this out, Ive seen it when browsing before...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-08-Nissa...sspagenameZWDVW

Edited May 31, 2008 by laxman0324

[SnowSurfLax]

02silverpathy...

 

If you're looking for lighter wheels, check out Rays Volk TE37X's. They're only 17lbs per rim at the 16" size and are specifically designed as an offroading rim. I'm going to get those on mine as soon as I convince the wife to let me.

 

Can you explain how you did the coolant bypass? I'm interested in doing that on mine. I'd like the power on demand as well. TIA!

[02silverpathy]

Ive heard of this before and was thinking about trying it...so all you did was removed those coolant lines from the throttle body and clamped a small piece of plastic onto either vacuum line? So does the line now sit above or below the TB?

 

The hose sits more towards the firewall and a little under it. The hose will go under your intake piping and is stretched a bit to reach the other end that comes from around where your rear T-stat is...at least on the 3.5.

 

Check this out, Ive seen it when browsing before...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-08-Nissa...sspagenameZWDVW

 

Right on man...I used a plastic vacuum tee instead of the copper/brass du-hickey!!

 

02silverpathy...

 

If you're looking for lighter wheels, check out Rays Volk TE37X's. They're only 17lbs per rim at the 16" size and are specifically designed as an offroading rim. I'm going to get those on mine as soon as I convince the wife to let me.

 

Can you explain how you did the coolant bypass? I'm interested in doing that on mine. I'd like the power on demand as well. TIA!

 

Those wheels are a lot like the NISMO's...I had a set that I had powder coated and were too dark...then I sold them for $$$ and now want another set of light wheels...if anyone cares I estimate that the OEM wheels are about 26-27 lbs.

 

**************This bypass has nothing to do with vacuum lines...I used a vacuum tee (straight plastic tube with ribbs on both sides to shove into the coolant hose). The brass/copper colored metal tubing may be better...I could only find this plastic vacuum adapter at the time!*********************************

[02silverpathy]

Coolant line #1 at TB

 

 

Coolant line #2 behind TB--attach #1 & #2

 

Also part of water piping and 2nd t-stat circled in blue!

[SnowSurfLax]

Coolant line #1 at TB

Coolant line #2 behind TB--attach #1 & #2

 

Also part of water piping and 2nd t-stat circled in blue!

 

Ok, I hate to sound dense, but maybe its because I haven't had my coffee yet. Are you sayin gjust take the hose out of the TB and you put the T section in to stop it up? Or are you rerouting it somehwere?

[02silverpathy]

No sweat, there is one going in and one going out...connect them together...bypassing the TB...this will not mess up the flow.

 

-------------------->I did not mean to JACK this thread!<-------------------------

 

Avusblur, please post us and let us know about the seafoam in your 3.5! I too am curious!

[NismoSkyZ]

02silverpathy...

 

If you're looking for lighter wheels, check out Rays Volk TE37X's. They're only 17lbs per rim at the 16" size and are specifically designed as an offroading rim. I'm going to get those on mine as soon as I convince the wife to let me.

 

Can you explain how you did the coolant bypass? I'm interested in doing that on mine. I'd like the power on demand as well. TIA!

 

Those rims are nice and all, but there are much cheaper options. They cost AT LEAST 250 a piece new.

 

And I would definitely do the seafoam. I did my first one at 120k and it's never ran better.

Edited June 3, 2008 by NismoSkyZ

[SnowSurfLax]

Ok, I hate to sound dense, but maybe its because I haven't had my coffee yet. Are you sayin gjust take the hose out of the TB and you put the T section in to stop it up? Or are you rerouting it somehwere?

 

Haha! Just got aroud to reading your reply and reread your previous one. Definitely shouldn't do anything before my morning coffee. "One in, one out". Yeah, make sense

 

That'll be an easy fix and I'll appreciate the power on demand. Gracias!

[laxman0324]

hey 02, how long was your T section? I was perusing the auto parts store and they all look too short...

[02silverpathy]

The section was only like 3" long (?), it was the hoses that had to do the work...err did you mean hoses and all? That part on the 3.5 was the OE hoses and that vac "T" inserted, with the teeny-tiny ends cut off to keep fluid flowing.

[laxman0324]

The section was only like 3" long (?), it was the hoses that had to do the work...err did you mean hoses and all? That part on the 3.5 was the OE hoses and that vac "T" inserted, with the teeny-tiny ends cut off to keep fluid flowing.

 

The hoses are long enough to do go under the TB if I use a connector of that size? my 3.3 is set up the same for the coolant line... So what did u do to the holes in the TB? plug them with something? Do you reattach the lines to the TB in the winter? (that helps me get an idea if the cold is an issue for us MDers) Thanks

[02silverpathy]

I did nothing with the TB, I figure if I am going to put these lines back on I will blow them out first to remove any debris. I didn't have any problems this past Winter at all...I did mid-Winter put the TB lines back on...that lasted 1 day!

 

I really don't understand the idea...the MAF reads the temp and volume...then it gets heated up...making the truck run rich since it had calculated gas injection for the cooler air that is now hot? Warm air makes better MPG's...I removed my home made heat shield in order to let the truck breathe some warmer air...I am getting tempted to hook the coolant lines back up to see if there is a change in MPG's.

Edited June 13, 2008 by 02silverpathy

[laxman0324]

I did nothing with the TB, I figure if I am going to put these lines back on I will blow them out first to remove any debris. I didn't have any problems this past Winter at all...I did mid-Winter put the TB lines back on...that lasted 1 day!

 

I really don't understand the idea...the MAF reads the temp and volume...then it gets heated up...making the truck run rich since it had calculated gas injection for the cooler air that is now hot? Warm air makes better MPG's...I removed my home made heat shield in order to let the truck breathe some warmer air...I am getting tempted to hook the coolant lines back up to see if there is a change in MPG's.

Thanks for the info, let us know if you see a difference...

[BurntTimber]

Real easy, even cheaper! Right below the throttle body there is an inlet out let hose. when you are facing the mouth of the TB the one hose comes from more or less the fire wall and enters the TB and then leaves the TB coming right out toward you...a simple 3/8" vacuum tee and some clamps (extra slack in the heater hose if you wish), a small amount of coolant loss and voila! Tee between hoses and clamped, now drive around and feel the intake manifold....much cooler!! You WILL notice that the engines power does not seem to fase as the engine warms up.....I have not wanted to put mine lines back on long enough to see if that geratly affected my MPG's....here's the deal

 

I've heard that in cold conditions, this can cause throttle sticking. If ice forms on the throttle plate, is there a possiblity of it not closing properly? Guess I'm asking if you've tested this through a cold Winter.

[CALPATHY]

I did nothing with the TB, I figure if I am going to put these lines back on I will blow them out first to remove any debris. I didn't have any problems this past Winter at all...I did mid-Winter put the TB lines back on...that lasted 1 day!

 

I really don't understand the idea...the MAF reads the temp and volume...then it gets heated up...making the truck run rich since it had calculated gas injection for the cooler air that is now hot? Warm air makes better MPG's...I removed my home made heat shield in order to let the truck breathe some warmer air...I am getting tempted to hook the coolant lines back up to see if there is a change in MPG's.

 

Any updates on this?