DaveB Posted December 28, 2008 Share Posted December 28, 2008 Thanks for all the info on changing the starter. the plugs were by far the hardest part not something I would want to do for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessyj Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Replaced my starter last weekend spend about 3 hour just to get it out after remove the bolts and wires etc, only problem it was to far gone to be rebuilt, at least that what they told me at the shop, good part is that i couldn't find a starter for a 95 but i tried one from a newer model, fit perfectly and best part it SMALLER, so i had no problem putting it back. This write up help me a lot, thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 You are saying that you used a starter out of a VG33 (96-2001 pathfinder?) and it was smaller, therefore easier to install?? *takes notes* B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Also the starter for the vg33 sounds a lot nicer haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Monster Truck Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) Hi. Just read the Replacing Your Starter. Great write up and agree 100% on it being a fun job to do. A couple of things I did a bit different may be a help. Mine is the Vg30I with custom extractors . This has left less room than normal around the starter. My hands were to big to get into the wiring termanials at the starter so I unwrapped the wiring back to the plug connection near the battery and disconected it there and fed the wiring back down and took it out with the starter motor . This way I know I will not damage any connections on the starter and the wires are on correctly. The main problem I found was once you get the mounting bolts out and the wiring sorted the starter will come forward ok but I could not get it past the steering cross rod. Quick and easy fix to just undo the kunckle and the the steering cross rod will lift up enough to give the extra clearance to slide the starter forward and out. Also with the oil filter the best way to stop the dramers with changing the filter and oil leaking on you new starter is to reposition it. I have fitted a Perma Cool brand relocation kit on mine and mounted the oil filter on the firewall. Quick and easy to change and no more jacking the car, remove the wheel,etc etc. Just my ideas and will not be for everyone. Edited October 21, 2009 by Little Monster Truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 So anyone verify that a VG33 starter will work on the WD21? Mine apparently is toast so I'll be changing it tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 also, do I have to take the oil filter off?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 It seems like the starter from a VG33 should work. It makes sense since the tranny is the same, the motor block is the same, etc. Why would the mounting points differ or the flywheel be a different diameter/pitch?? Are you willing to be the guinnea pig? You can probably go without removing the oil filter since you have a 3" body lift and will be able to get in easier. Hell, you may be able to pull it out through the wheel well. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I was able to do my starter without taking the oil filter off but I do have a 3" Bl as well. Taking the starter off the parts truck...different story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 well the VG33 is about $40 price difference so screw that, I guess I'll try without taking the filter off first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 anybody able to accomplish this without a flex joint extension? the first mount bolt I've come to I can't get a socket/box wrench on there well enough to try and turn without stripping the head, dam exhaust in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 any tips?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) I am guessing from the price difference and that it is smaller, that the vg-33 starter may be a gear reduction starter. Trust me if it is $40 more is well worth it if it is indeed a gear reduction starter. It will use less amps and create less heat when cranking which translates into longer life. Can someone confirm if the vg-33 starter is in fact gear reduction? Mark Edited October 29, 2009 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 according to O'Rielly it is but so is the one I got from them for the VG30 at $40 less. Their website says their both gear reduction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 As I recall I only used long extensions from the front of the vehicle (steering linkage area) to get to the starter bolts. I know I just recently tightened the top one this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 according to O'Rielly it is but so is the one I got from them for the VG30 at $40 less. Their website says their both gear reduction Interesting! Does the old one and the new one look the same. I did not think the stock starter was a gear reduction. Perhaps it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 I'll let you know if I ever get the SOB out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 anyone have a pic or can tell me where these mount bolts are? my tranny was rebuilt 2 years ago and I have a theory that they put the bolts in backwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) anyone have a pic or can tell me where these mount bolts are? my tranny was rebuilt 2 years ago and I have a theory that they put the bolts in backwards bolts heads go from the transmission and thread into the starter. If i remember correctly. it has been a while Edited October 30, 2009 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 As I recall I only used long extensions from the front of the vehicle (steering linkage area) to get to the starter bolts. I know I just recently tightened the top one this way. mine does not seem to be on with the bolt heads accessible from the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) mine does not seem to be on with the bolt heads accessible from the front the bolts will look just like the transmission bolts they will go through the bellhousing of the transmission through a backing plate and then thread into the starter. Bolt head should be visible from transmission side not the starter/engine side. just look at the bolts that hold the transmission on and remove the 2 bolts that line up with the starter. Edited October 30, 2009 by msavides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 I'll assume that if i loosen a bolt and tranny fluid comes thats not good? cuz the bolt that ligns up with the lower mount bolt leaks tranyy if I loosen it WTF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 alright the lower mount bolt has lost its head, how do I extract a bolt that has no head??????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Carefully. Is the starter off and is there any length of the bolt protruding?? How much? Is it rusted/corroded?? In a perfect world, all you do is grab the bolt with pliers/vice grips and unscrew it, but I don't think that will be the case. Apply some penetrating oil on the bolt where it enters the threaded hole. Can you take a picture to show exactly what we are dealing with? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 well the bolt goes through the bell housing of the tranny and through the mount hole on the starter, there is no head on either side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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