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Threadlocker on Power Valve screws (pics)


BowTied
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OK.. small problem here.

 

I did this job and replaced all the gaskets and the thread in pvc valve.

 

Well..put it back together and went to start it up.. It starts and then dies UNLESS i give it a bit of gas as it starts up. Then it runs normal.

 

ANyone know the torq on the intake bolts? I did them by hand and made sure they were tight.

 

I did not use any gasket maker..anyone think this would help?

 

I did take everything apart again..then back together again and the same thing happens.

 

ANY IDEAS?

 

It's been about 1 month since last time I did it and I just have to tap the gas as it start up every time. This gets it running normal. Its been cold here and I haven't had the time to try it again with some gasket maker.

 

I can only think its a vacuum leak..but it's weird that it runs ok after i tap the gas at start up.

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See page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts.

 

RTV/gasket maker is unnecessary for replacement of the gaskets for the throttle body, upper intake manifold gaskets, and lower intake manifold gaskets.

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  • 1 year later...

i recently did both power valves and swirls valves while at it,replaced the old screws with new ones. got them 24 cents per screw from ace hardware. size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length, then used the high strength red loctite so i would have a peace of mind those screws wont come out. i would recommend to change the intake manifold gasket, pcv,valve cover, spark plug seal, emission valve cover hose that connects both valve cover since they are plastic and get brittle, while u work down there because everything has easy access while the intake manifold is out. do it once and do it right the first time.

 

as the torque for the intake manifold. i did all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs.

Edited by deltaR50
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  • 1 year later...

Just finished this up about 10 minutes ago. I really appreciated your how to, although I deviated slightly and did not remove the throttle body.

 

For anyone about to do this, have some extra vacuum line on hand as a couple of mine broke upon trying to remove. I'm sure the act it is 24 degrees out didn't help, though.

 

For what it's worth all of mine were tight and most likely would never have come out on their own, but a decent amount of red lock tite on each screw will now make sure of that.

 

Got it all done in about 3 hours, including spark plug change while I was at it. This was doing the work behind my townhouse on the side of the street in freezing temps too, so I don't want to hear anyone's excuses!

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  • 1 year later...

Well, I have final update. I sold the pathfinder not long ago with 217k km on the clock. She was still running strong and never any issues with the power valves. I hope runs many years for the new owners.

 

Thanks to everyone who showed thier appreciation for my post and also to those who added or expanded on the info with newer and better ways to do things.

Cheers.

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  • 4 years later...

This thread's probably got the best pictures you're gonna find. There should be a diagram in the service manual (get it here for free) that makes their location and function clearer.

 

If you have a '98, though, good news! Your VG33E doesn't have power valves or swirl valves.

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