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Won't start/misfire


98SE
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I changed my timing belt last weekend (1988 SE-V-6 auto 4wd), all went well and the truck was running fine. I checked the ecu codes a week ago just for the heck of it and it came up with 55-no malfunction. Yesterday I drove to wal-mart 4 miles and it away and it wouldn't start when I came out. It would crank over and I could smell gas. I knew it wasn't getting a spark. Like an idiot, I left my cell phone at home in my motorcycle jacket so I had to walk the 4 miles home lol. Grabbed the car and picked up a new distributor cap at Checkers (it needed replaced anyways.) I put it on the truck, cranked it over a few more times and it finally sputtered to life. It misfired all the way home, so I checked the codes. It came up with two. 13-crankshaft position sensor, and 11-engine coolant temperature sensor. The truck still starts but not easily and it misfires, but only half the time. Soooooooo.........Is the crankshaft sensor built into the distributor? I've seen it sold separately. And where is the coolant temperature sensor? Should I replace it? The temperature gauge works just fine. Any help would be appreciated. The pathy will be my main mode of transportation for the next 6 weeks. It couldn't have broken at a worse time.

Edited by 98SE
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do you have enough coolant in the system?

 

did you disconnect the battery before doing the t-belt? did you do anything with the dizzy? it is still possible that you didn't have the right tension on the t-belt and it may have jumped a tooth or two.

 

it is also possible that the CPS just went dead.. but two codes popping at the same time is somewhat suspect.. did you reconnect everything they way it was before doing the belt?

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do you have enough coolant in the system?

 

did you disconnect the battery before doing the t-belt? did you do anything with the dizzy? it is still possible that you didn't have the right tension on the t-belt and it may have jumped a tooth or two.

 

it is also possible that the CPS just went dead.. but two codes popping at the same time is somewhat suspect.. did you reconnect everything they way it was before doing the belt?

 

 

Hmmmm...........No, I didn't disconnect the battery before I did the t-belt. As for the dizzy, I only took the cap off to see when the rotor was at spark plug number 1. I am pretty sure the belt didn't slip a tooth, after all it will run dead smooth one minute then have a slight misfire the next. And when it is running smooth, it is smoother and quieter than before I did the t-belt. It has enough coolant and does not overheat. The level in the resorvoir is exaclty at max. Should I disconnect the battery for a half hour or so to erase the codes? Where is the coolant sensor and CPS located, maybe I bumped a connection loose, I would like to be able to check.

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Update! Okay so I took off the timing belt cover and the belt is in the correct position. Meanwhile I had the battery disconnected and this erased the codes. I put everything back together and started her up. Barely started and runs horribly, shaking pretty bad. Then I turned the engine off and checked the codes again. Got code 55-No Malfunction. So I disconnected the wiring going to the crank angle sensor on the distributor. Tried to start it, and nothing just as expected. Next I reconnected it and now it still doesn't start! Not even a hickup. However I am now throwing code 11-Crank Angle Sensor. Should I just replace this? The cheapest one I could find was from Napa for $104. On another note, code 13 is gone. (coolant temp sensor). Any help is much appreciated.

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play with the connector again.. that could be the whole cause.

 

I played with the connector for a bit, it even looks brand new on the inside. Next step? lol Maybe my wiring harness is shot? I don't have a multimeter.

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Check partsamerica.com. You can order online with a discount and pickup at Advance Auto Parts, Checker Auto Parts, Schuck's Auto Supply or Kragen Auto Parts.

 

Did a search for crank angle sensor this is what I got:

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.as...Position+Sensor

 

They are aparantly not in stock in my area. But they are half the price they are at Napa.

 

The crank sensor is a bugger to get to. Its on the top of the trans on the drivers side at about the 11:00 position. A 10mm ratchet wrench is about the easiest way to get the one bolt out that holds it on. If its not damaged (bent like mine was) it should take about 30 minutes to change.

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FIXED! I got a new sensor from Napa for $104. Runs better than ever. It has always run out of steam at higher rpm's but now it runs great. The old sensor had a heavily corroded sensor so that was probably the culprit. BTW, my sensor is in the distributor, the newer vg33's have a another sensor located underneath the vehicle in addition to the one in the dizzy. Thanks for the help.

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