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Steering column smoking


racaron
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Now that I had my Pathy back on the road, I am using it frequently. The other night I was coming home and I smelled the typical electrical-burning type of smoke. I thought it was from the outside, but later on I realized that the smell was coming from my truck. Not good. I turned on the courtesy light and noticed a tiny "line" of smoke coming from the inside of the steering column (undeneath the steering cluster panel). All the gauges were working fine, all lights were OK and there was no malfunctioning in any of them. I turned the headlights off and the smell was gone (and the smoke).

This morning I did some testing and turned on the parking lights only, it took some time to feel the burning smell and then I turned them off. After a while I turned the headlights on and almost immediately I felt the burning smell. Tonight on the way home I turned them on just for few seconds and this time the instrument panel light flickered just a little (not the headlights) for a second or two and then it stop flickering.

Saturday will troubleshoot the issue, so far I am thinking of checking the wiring harness that goes to the headlight switch (burned wires, discoloration, wire temp, etc). I also was told that the issue could be in the headlight switch itself, but this one is a brand new OEM switch.

Any ideas for troubleshooting?

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if it were me.... i'd start pulling the plastic on the steeting column (only a few screws) and start tracing the wires looking for burns like you were saying. electrical problems are always fun..... my carpet caught on fire once.... ha that was fun. the story of that is floating around here somewhere. [[don't worry though, it was my fault, not nissans]]

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At lunch time I went to my truck and TS a little the "smoking" issue. Found that more than likely there is a short somewhere in the parking lights wiring :crossedwires: . The fuse box is melted :skull: at the "clearance illumination" fuse slot, but only at that slot. The 10A fuse was entirely melted and it even dripped! :beer:

I already removed all the debris and had the slot cleared/cleaned leaving only the two prongs "hanging", but I made sure they are isolated from e/o.

Does anybody know if is a PITA to replace that fuse box? I am talking the one to the lower left of the steering column.

I guess I am going to have a lot of fun TSing where the short is at. Any ideas?

Last question, how can I remove the cover from the lower left side, where the fuse box is at? By removing it I will have more space to work with the wiring and the box.

 

***Bought the fuse box, anyone knows where can I find a good wiring diagram for the fuse box?

Also found out that the corner is not a separate part, but part of the entire dashboard panel. It sucks.

Edited by racaron
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Here are some pics of the fuse box and the 10A fuse remains...

 

http://madmudders.net/npora/racaron/fuse%20box/

 

If is a PITA to re-wire (only because of the soooooo uncomfortable position to work down there) I might pull the parking lights wires out of the box and will jump them using a 10A. Of course this is once I found out where is the short at.

Edited by racaron
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damn.. FIRST.. get a FIRE EXTINGUISHER in your truck, ASAP.

 

you can get decent wiring diagram in the hayenes manual.

 

I'd definitely look inside the steering column. if the switch is new, i'd almost want to look there first as it's possbile someone butchered the wiring when they installed it.

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mzxtreme: Although is a good idea to have an extinguisher in my old truck (and in any vehicle), it wont be necessary at this time because I had the short issue isolated.

I replaced the headlight switch myself and did a very clean, straight-forward job with no wire butchering, but by only unplugging/plugging harnesses. Thinking of when I replaced the switch (long time ago), now I remember that when I first tried the lights after installing the new switch, the fuse blew. I replaced it and it blew again, the only other fuse available at the time (from the ones that are at the fuse box lid, along with the "tweezers") was a 25A one. Today while showing the fuse remains to a friend of mine I noticed it was a 25A, not a 10A (hence, the whole melting thing you guys saw in the pics), and remembered the aforementioned initial fuse issue.

At this point I think I might have a malfunctioning new OEM headlight switch. Next Saturday will TS it with another friend of mine (an electromechanic), hopefully this will be the issue and will solve it by buying another switch or simply by trying to repair the switch if this is possible.

 

Mr. Pickles: I do believe in good karma. Once again thanks. Even if the problem is only at the switch, those diagrams are going to be so useful for me while enjoying my old truck. As I said in another posting, I am about to install a stereo system (head unit and 4 speakers, nothing special) and I will need this diagrams because the previous owner had some kind of system installed w/o using harnesses, but by cutting all the wires. Not good. I noticed there is a pair of Monster cables maybe 8 gauge, maybe for the rear speakers? We will see.

For now I am centrated in this short problem, but hopefully will solve it soon and will move to the next.

 

unccpathfinder: It will take some serious rubbing to take the insulation out of wires just by friction. Anyway, hopefully it wont happen (burn to the ground). I like the idea mzxtreme gave to me, down the road will buy an extinguisher to have it at the Pathy. You never know what can happen in an older vehicle electrical system. The wear and tear can be dangerous.

 

As for the fuse box, I decided to once the problem is fixed, will keep it and will jump the two "clearance illumination" wires properly fused with a 10A. I might give away or sell the one that I bought.

I must say, has been so much fun bringing my Pathy back to life, I really needed this toy!

Edited by racaron
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