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Remote Door/starter Control


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Okay Last Christmas i received a prostart 3400 remote starter. I want to get it installed before the one year is up. I have all the proper documentation and diagrams and i've located and connected all the wire that are required. Before i get really involved in explaining what I’ve done, is there anyone that can help me?

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Ya. :suicide: A question would help eh? When i reconnected the battery after soft wiring my connections the parking lights come on and stay on. and im unable to coordinate my remote to the starter module. The first instruction is to coordinate the remote which require to flash the hood pin (Pressing it for 4sec), and when released the parking lights should flash 5 times, but they never turn off, so some things wrong. ive been over the wires a dozen times, smoked 2 packs of cigarettes, and its remains the same.

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http://www.engines911.com/asdocs/CT-3400TW...v250_040908.pdf

 

Okay above is the installation guide for my remote starter. (If you scroll down it gives a list of the wire on each harness and what they need to be connected to)

 

The way i have it connected is as follows:

 

6 PIN Harness

Wire A -- RED +12 V Battery ---- i have this connected to the White and Pink Wire at the ignition harness (This wire has a 12v with the key in the ACC, ON, and Crank Position)

Wire B -- PURPLE Starter Output ---- this is connected to the Black and Yellow wire at the wiring harness. (It gives a 12v reading with the key in the crank position)

Wire C -- Red +12v Battery ---- This wire is connected with Wire A above.

Wire D -- Yellow Ignition Output ---- this is connected to the Black and White wire at the ignition harness. (Wire reads 12v at the ON, and CRANK position)

Wire E & F ---- Not connected

 

5 PIN Harness

Wire 1 -- Black Chassis Ground ---- Connected to Bolt under dash (Continuity Checked)

Wire 2 -- Purple Tachometer ---- Connected to the Light Blue wire that runs from the Distributor to the ECM, Connected to a factory split joint. (Continuity Checked with ECM and Distributor disconnected)

Wire 3 -- Grey (-) Hood Pin ---- I connected this to the factory hood switch Yellow and Black at the Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module)

Wire 4 -- Orange Brake Switch ---- Connected to the Light Green and Black wire at the M2 Connector (Located on DS Right Bottom corner 12V Output w Pedal Pressed)

Wire 5 -- Yellow Parking Lights ---- Pink and Blue at the ignition harness. This wire gives 12v in parking light and running light selections at the combination switch. (The Yellow wire produces a 12v output when the battery is connected, causing my parking lights to stay on)

 

12 PIN Harness

Wire 1 -- Blue ---- Not Used

Wire 2 -- Brown (-) Lock ---- Light Green and Red located at the Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module)

Wire 3 -- Green (-) Unlock ---- Not Installed

Wire 4 -- White and Brown (-) Arm ---- Yellow at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module)

Wire 5 -- White and Green (-) Disarms ---- Light Green at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module)

Wire 6 -- Blue and White (-) Aux 1 ---- Brown at Alarm Module or (Smart Entrance Module) Using this Aux to access priority door access

Wire 7 to 12 ---- Not Installed

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What year pathy is this? They changed wire colors every year...bastids...

 

Without knowing what year this is, it appears you have it hooked up properly so far. From what I gathered of your install instructions, Yellow wire #5 on 5 pin harness should only supply 12V+ when the unit has remoted started your car. Right now I would guess the remote start module is malfunctioning if it immediately supplies power to wire 5 as soon as you supply power to the unit.

 

Let me know what year you have and I will try and help some more. I would recommend searching around http://www.the12volt.com/ They had several helpful posts when I was installing this on my car.

Edited by blamtro
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My truck is a 1997 Klondike model. It has that starter disable antitheft device. Im not sure if the yellow wire on the 5 pin harness is so post to be hot or not, But in the installation book it said that its a POSTTIVE parking light output wire, their is also a parking light NEGATIVE wire that is on a 2 pin harness (look at that PDF doc.), but i didn’t install this because the book said only one of these wires need to be installed. Ive also been thinking that this might be a relay application, Im going to go and see if i have a 5 pin relay kickin around the shop, and look into it. Oh and ive floated around that website looking for help too, didnt spen to much time, maybe tonight, when it starts raining.

 

Tks.

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The yellow wire is not supposed to hot all the time. However, you might get lucky and it could be the only thing wrong with the module. Since you do have the other wire that is a negative output on the 2 pin harness, I would try using that wire and invert it using a relay and check to see if you get the same result, or even just check it with your DMM and see under what circumstances you have continuity to ground.

 

My truck is a 1997 Klondike model. It has that starter disable antitheft device. Im not sure if the yellow wire on the 5 pin harness is so post to be hot or not, But in the installation book it said that its a POSTTIVE parking light output wire, their is also a parking light NEGATIVE wire that is on a 2 pin harness (look at that PDF doc.), but i didn’t install this because the book said only one of these wires need to be installed. Ive also been thinking that this might be a relay application, Im going to go and see if i have a 5 pin relay kickin around the shop, and look into it. Oh and ive floated around that website looking for help too, didnt spen to much time, maybe tonight, when it starts raining.

 

Tks.

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Ya that seems to be the only problem that ive been able to find. I cant use a relay with the wire from the 2 pin harness, the voltage is to low to trigger a connection and doesn’t drop low enough to disengage it. But i did use a DMM to help me know when the light were so post to flash (approx 4v difference) but it is to hard to tell the pulse speed of the flashes. I managed to get the majority of my function set, have some functions not working but i need the lights to flash to program them (catch 22). But Im going into town tomorrow, maybe, ill fight to get it exchanged, or ill buy one and return the defective unit. I just dont understand how the company is able to distribute units that are defective. Im Sure they have a Q.C. department. I was talking to the leading automotive electronics installer in town, and hes saying the unit are junk and have a 45% failure rate strait out of the box and another 15% failure in installation ability. But he said if it works off the bat your laughing and probably never have an issue with it. But i can keep you posted if you like.

 

Tks a bunch... Cheers.

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Let me know it you need some more help. I made myself some pretty extensive notes when I did my install. I probably spent 30+ hours doing it because I made sure everything was tucked away very neatly, every splice was soldered and heat shrink tubing applied. I completely tore the dash out minus the airbags to access all the wires at their source. All in all, it was worth it. No crawling outside 30 minutes before work to scrape ice/start car.

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Nope, I think im good for now. I went out and bought a new starter and swapped that module, and all is good. And its good to hear you take you time to do things right. That was one of my issues about taking it to a professional installer, i wanted it in a certain spot that required a special bracket, and i wanted it neat and tucked away where you wont get caught on the wires with your shoes or if you have bulky winter boots on. Anyways thanks for your help and ill post again if anything changes.

 

P. Rookie

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