csutke Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 (edited) Finally got around to changing my drive belts. Just thought that I would post up how I did it. I have a 98 XE with the VG33 Tools needed: 3/8" ratchet 3/8" extensions ( a few should do, i used two smalls and a large) 2 3/8" 14mm sockets 3/8" 12mm socket 1/4" ratchet 1/4" 12 mm socket 14 mm wrench 19 mm wrench breaker bar Parts needed: (part number from auto zone) A/C Belt (505K5) Alternator Belt (420K6) PS belt (17350) First of all it would help if you had every thing clean that you were going to be dealing with, such as belts, pulleys, etc... 1. If you have a skid plate or the plastic dust cover that covers your front components you will need to remove them. 2. You will have to work from the front to the back and then back to front. Looking at the belts from front to back (or closest to the radiator to the firewall) the belts will be in this order A/C belt Alternator belt PS belt 3. Grab the 14mm socket and the 3/8" ratchet and loosen but don't remove the bolt that holds the idler pulley on the A/C belt then take the same socket and loosen the bolt that holds the tension on the belt and loosen it enough to remove the belt 4. Use the same socket (14mm) to loosen the pulley on the alternator and then use the 12 mm socket to loosen the bolt that hold the tension on this belt, remove belt You will have to pull these belts around the fan blades, it helps of you turn the fan blades as your doing this For the power steering belt you will have to go from underneath 5. Grab the 12mm socket and loosen the this bolt and then this tensioner bolt with the 1/4" ratchet and the 1/4" 12mm socket remove the belts, if needed grab the 19mm wrench and use it to move the PS pulley enough to remove the belt. Now its time to replace the belts in reverse order that you took them off, PS, the alternator, then the AC. Before you put the new belts on make sure that there the same as the old ones. Same width, length, and rib count. 1. Put the PS belt on both of the pulleys, may have to loosen the tensioner more get the new belt on. Take the 19mm wrench and push up on the PS pulley bolt as far as you can, at the same time start tighting the tensioner with the 1/4" 12mm socket. Get this belt as tight as you can get it. 2. Feed the Alternator belt over the fan blade and over the rest of the pulleys. Grab the 14mm wrench and put it on the idler pulley and pull up. At the same time take the 12mm socket and tighten the tensioner as tight as you can get it. Then take the 3/8" 14 mm socket and tighten the idler pulley 3. Repeat the same steps for the AC belt as for the alternator belt. Start engine and check for problems. Hope this helps Edited September 15, 2007 by csutke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 (edited) Nice write-up. I made sure to change all mine when I had the radiator fan blade and clutch out while I did my timing belt change. That second bolt on the ps pump pulley closest to the frame horns is still a pain in the bodoooky Edited September 10, 2007 by zonianbrat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 That second bolt on the ps pump pulley closest to the frame horns is still a pain in the bodoooky YES IT IS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I need to do the belts on my 97 Pathy and have a ? regarding the Idlers. is there suposed to be axial play in them or are mine in need of replacment? If I grab them by hand with belt tension on them I can move the 2 idlers (Alternator and AC belt idler pulley's) back and fourth. the nuts are tight. I think that they are worn and need replaced but dont want to waste money if the bearings in them are suposed to have play in them. but if they are bad I want to replace them asap and do belts at the same time so I dont loose a belt in BFE off roading. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 that im not sure of the answer to that question but im sure that somebody else can answer it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 anyone think they pop the hood on there pathy and see if there idlers have play in the bearings? You dont have to loosen anything just try to move the pully back and fourth and see if there is play! I would really appriciate it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 If you don't get an answer here soon I'll have to take a look at the engine I've got. If mine are good I'd be happy to sell them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 ill check but do you mean play from front to back or side to side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Off the top of my head I would not think there is any play in them if the belt is on there with tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 I have front to back play in mine with tension from the belts on the pullys. thats what I need to know is if the front to back play is normal or if I need to replace them? Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 12, 2007 Share Posted September 12, 2007 Ok I went out and checked my pulleys I can move mine like maybe 1/8 of an inch or so. So compare that to how much play you have in yours. Then if you have the same amount of play your either ok or we both have bad bearings in the idler pulleys... Have you heard any squealing lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 Hey great post man! Nice pics too! Maybe someone should sticky this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 Ok I went out and checked my pulleys I can move mine like maybe 1/8 of an inch or so. So compare that to how much play you have in yours. Then if you have the same amount of play your either ok or we both have bad bearings in the idler pulleys... Have you heard any squealing lately? I have about the same amount of play in mine. I guess I wont worry about them. I have almost 132,000 miles on them though. I have had a intermitant constant squeel above 40 MPH. It only happens after about a 10 mile drive abouve 50 MPH and only when the temp is over 80 degrees outside when it happens it will stop below 40 MPH. I can put the Pathy in neutral @ 55 MPH and the noise is still there I dont think its from the engine but from metal to metal contact somwhere else. has anyone ever had this problem? if so what was the remedy? It is embarrasing and I need it to go away completely. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB3829 Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 mikeysentra, that annoying squeal has plagued me for the last two years. I changed both idler pulleys($$$$) and the belts about two years ago and it came back. How loud it is depends on the outside temp and engine temp. I changed them again over the weekend and sprayed the pulleys wih brake cleaner and ran a wire brush in the grooves to get rid of any (tarnish or some other coating) that could cause the squeal. It worked for the most part but there still is an intermittent squeek still there. (and yes the belts are tight) I'm thinking it could be the timing belt. (please correct me if I'm wrong anyone!) As far as the PS pump, I used a flexible socket adapter with a long extension and worked that bolt from the top of the engine. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 That's weird mikeysentra, my 97 is just about to hit 132,000. Anyway can you hear your squeal if your just reving up your engine in N? If not then i would suspect something along the lines of wheel bearings but I could be wrong as I do not have much experience in that department. Try spraying belt dressing on all your belts then take it above 40 and see if you can hear anything.I have just notice a annoying squeal when I am going under 10 mph it started after my last trip to train in TX. JB3829, I doubt your timing belt is squealing just because it has notches that mesh with your crank and cam pulleys but stranger things have happened. When you say your belts are tight.. how tight are they? can you deflect them at all? because belts can squeal when too tight too. Mine did when I first replaced them and I losened them up just a bit and they were fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB3829 Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 That's weird mikeysentra, my 97 is just about to hit 132,000. Anyway can you hear your squeal if your just reving up your engine in N? If not then i would suspect something along the lines of wheel bearings but I could be wrong as I do not have much experience in that department. Try spraying belt dressing on all your belts then take it above 40 and see if you can hear anything.I have just notice a annoying squeal when I am going under 10 mph it started after my last trip to train in TX. JB3829, I doubt your timing belt is squealing just because it has notches that mesh with your crank and cam pulleys but stranger things have happened. When you say your belts are tight.. how tight are they? can you deflect them at all? because belts can squeal when too tight too. Mine did when I first replaced them and I losened them up just a bit and they were fine. Thanks zonianbrat. They deflect about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. maybe its an idler pulley( replaced 2 years ago). I'm gonna run sand paper on them and see if that helps or just replace the one near the alternator. Don't know what else to do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csutke Posted September 13, 2007 Author Share Posted September 13, 2007 Thanks zonianbrat. They deflect about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. maybe its an idler pulley( replaced 2 years ago). I'm gonna run sand paper on them and see if that helps or just replace the one near the alternator. Don't know what else to do! Have you tried having them tighter to see if that made a difference, are the nuts that hold the idler tight? just a few ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 13, 2007 Share Posted September 13, 2007 Have you tried having them tighter to see if that made a difference, are the nuts that hold the idler tight? just a few ideas The pullys are tight. The squeel I am talking about is not from the engine compartment. my belts dont squeek. I am just going to change them as routein maintnance. I think the squeel is coming from under neath the vehicle. I have had the wheel bearings repacked about 2,000 miles ago and after the last squeel when I got home I felt the hubs for excessive heat but they were not hot to the touch. I am suspect the maybee I have a front dust shield that when hot contacts the back of the rotor or somthing like that. But untel I look further into it I wont know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 I think I have found the squeel. It seems to be the front wheel bearings. mainly the Right front that is making all the noise. I had them repacked about 1500 miles ago @ the dealership that I work for. Chevrolet not Nissan. If I where to guess he got them too tight and now they are making noise. I will talk to my service manager tomarow and see what he can do for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 How easily should the PS pump pivot after loosening its bracket and tensioner bolts? I can't seem to get it to budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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