westoverjimmy Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 :shrug:I have a 1992 Pathfinder SE 4x4 As I posted before I snapped the cam just got the cam in after waiting 7 days for it. I installed it and now it turns over but won't fire or run? I replaced the tensioner bearing and made sure the crank was tdc (keyway vertical) I put cams on marks and tightened the belt I checked the spark and it is good checked compression in #1 cyclinder (good) it is getting fuel into cyclinders (good) check spark plug wires (correct & good) SPARK checked the cap (new) no miles spark plugs (new) no miles wires in good condition I have not hooked up the radiator to engine yet wanted to see if it would fire before putting it all back together Is their something that keeps the motor from starting without water flow? (saftey feature) what I have is the pulley removed, radiator removed, belts removed (except timing belt) Don't know what to do have never had such a hard time getting something back up and running as this pathfinder. This truck did not run great with busted cam but it ran, now it does not fire at all acts like there is no spark? but, I checked that with screw driver I had high hopes for this pathfinder but, I am seriously going to sell it or soon! if i can't solve this problem soon. when does it end? I know i know When I quit buying old nissan crap! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 made sure the crank was tdc (keyway vertical) ummmmm, TDC is when the timing mark on the crank sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the oil pump housing... If your oil pump has one, if it does not, the key way is at about the 11:00 position. The Cam marks also have to align with thier marks. The biggest challenge here is that the crank has to go around twice for the Cam's to rotate once... The easiest way to find TDC on a running engine is to align the marks and then check the position of the rotor under the cap. Yours was not running when you took it apart so its kind of difficult.... Finger over the plug hole as you SLOWLY rotate the crank by HAND... Please refer to your Chilton/Haynes/FSM for the #of teeth on your timing belt between alignment marks... If you broke a Cam while it was running, it is possible that you have some bent valves, compression on #1 can be fine, but the other can be bent and no compression.... Just so you know, my timing belt stripped about 15" of teeth when it came loose.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barthel Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Sounds like it's definitely out of time. Turn the crank pulley to line up the timing marks on the cam pulleys, then check your distibutor. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. Now, verify that you're at TDC using a dowel (I used a small screwdriver), place it into the #1 cylinder and let it rest on the piston. Slightly move the crank pulley, the dowel should only go down. You may have slipped some teeth when you broke the cam, in which case you'll have to re-time it completely. Casey definitely has a point about checking the compression in ALL cylinders. It only takes a few teeth's worth of slip for the pistons to start hitting valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 be sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust (180 off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westoverjimmy Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 ummmmm, TDC is when the timing mark on the crank sprocket aligns with the timing mark on the oil pump housing... If your oil pump has one, if it does not, the key way is at about the 11:00 position. The Cam marks also have to align with thier marks. The biggest challenge here is that the crank has to go around twice for the Cam's to rotate once... The easiest way to find TDC on a running engine is to align the marks and then check the position of the rotor under the cap. Yours was not running when you took it apart so its kind of difficult.... Finger over the plug hole as you SLOWLY rotate the crank by HAND... Please refer to your Chilton/Haynes/FSM for the #of teeth on your timing belt between alignment marks... If you broke a Cam while it was running, it is possible that you have some bent valves, compression on #1 can be fine, but the other can be bent and no compression.... Just so you know, my timing belt stripped about 15" of teeth when it came loose.... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westoverjimmy Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 where can I find a PDF manual online? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 phatG20.net has FSM's for 94-95's and up. That's about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 (edited) http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downlo...load&cid=76 Unfortunately, it starts at 94. Not a problem though, as timing information remains the same. The only difference is that you probably have the square tooth belt, and the 94 has the round tooth. What's with people beating me to posts today?!?! 88 said it....the link is above. Edited June 13, 2007 by Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westoverjimmy Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 phatG20.net has FSM's for 94-95's and up. That's about it. Well, it was the Timing it was off by three teeth on the crank. the pathfinder runs smooth as it did before all of this happend except! I am getting a little bit of clack (almost like low octane gas) going up hills my friend was saying we just need to throw a timing light on it? but, other then that it does not clack or run bad at idle, arround town or when the trans kicks down. I am going to compression test the engine here in a bit and see what that looks like. I would like to thank everyone here for helping me with my pathe. the timing marks are the same for the 92 and 94 I ended up on a site called nissanhelp.com where I got a manual for my truck. I have decided to keep my pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Don't the pistons collide with the valves starting at 3 teeth off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 I am getting a little bit of clack (almost like low octane gas) going up hillsmy friend was saying we just need to throw a timing light on it? Your friend is probably right. The ignition timing is too far advanced, causing it to knock under load. Get the ignition timing back in spec, and you'll probably be fine. Good job on the fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westoverjimmy Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 Don't the pistons collide with the valves starting at 3 teeth off? Does anyone know what the compresssion in each cyclinder should be? 1992 Pathfinder vg30E? the first cyclinder was 125, second 125 third 135 on the passenger side head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westoverjimmy Posted June 14, 2007 Author Share Posted June 14, 2007 Does anyone know what the compresssion in each cyclinder should be?1992 Pathfinder vg30E? the first cyclinder was 125, second 125 third 135 on the passenger side head well scratch all this according to the nissan manual the test was done wrong so the level of 125-135 could be alot high with more cranks this was 3 turns it say the standard is 178? and min is 128? huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Get the timing light on it... after thats set, run it for about 100 miles or so(stay in cell range) then let it cool down a bit and do the compression check.. Keep a oil can and a dropper handy to see if your cylinders are bleeding off.... At 3 teeth you may have tweeked the valves a bit.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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