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Prado Lift Installation Complete


MichiganAve
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So I finished the lift today and drove it around the parking lot and block. All the spacers lined up perfectly. No squeaks or rattles, and the steering works lock to lock just fine. It is too dark now for me to take any pictures, but I'll get around to it! I also will post my installation notes.

 

What I have installed:

-Prado 2.5" strut spacers

-Prado 4" subframe spacers and engine blocks

-Prado 3" rear spacers

-AC 2" lift springs

-KYB GR2 front struts

-Bilstein 5150 rear shocks

-Stillen rear sway bar with lengthened sway links

-Steering extension using Honda 92-93 Civic EX universal and splined shaft

 

Difficulties with the installation:

-Dealing with coil compressors to get the rear spacer in was a pain. I removed the sway and shocks and still had to do a lot of compressing. You may get more room by removing the control arms but I didn't try it.

-The grade 5 coarse bolt that comes pre-welded onto the strut tower spacer broke off while I was installing it. I had to cut the welds off and replace the bolt. The reason the bolt is welded on is its nearly impossible to reach up and hold the bolt stable while tightening down the nut on the other side. Got it done tho.

-The driver side engine mounts are difficult to undo as the differential is in the way. I was able to get it off with a 14mm deep offset wrench. If you get frustrated, you can always just drop the differential out of the way.

-My very front subframe nuts on both sides were extremely stuck. PB Blaster and my 18" breaker bar got nowhere. Then I used 2' and 4' pipes and still couldn't get enough torque. Finally with a 6' pipe I was able to get the passenger side nut off. But the driver side completely stripped with all that force. I also broke the 19mm craftsman socket (thank you lifetime guarantee). I used bolt-outs and am driving with 1 missing nut at the moment (I'll get a new one asap).

 

My to do list:

-extended front brake lines (from Prado)

-extended rear brake lines (from AC)

-alignment (got lots of positive camber, though not worse than the AC lift alone)

-front bumper (from KMA)

-rear bumper (from Richard)

-sliders (from Richard)

-backup camera

 

Still need to get:

-1 subframe nut

-wheels and tires... leaning towards BFG MT 35x12.5 on 15x8s, will require trimming

-new front skidplate

 

For sale:

-Brand new 32" BFG AT's on 16x8 ProComp black alloys!

-Rancho 9000x adjustable rear shocks (the ones from AC for their 2" lift), with only 300 miles on them

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me too! I still cant wait till some people get it and get some pics so I can decide on what exact setup I want.

 

Hey did you have the grinding noise from the little box when you turn the wheels? And so I dont have to look at the other forum, what are the different strut spacers avabiable? Any 3"ers?

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me too! I still cant wait till some people get it and get some pics so I can decide on what exact setup I want.

 

Hey did you have the grinding noise from the little box when you turn the wheels? And so I dont have to look at the other forum, what are the different strut spacers avabiable? Any 3"ers?

What is this little box grinding you mention? I didn't hear any noises last night but I need to drive this around more to test things out of course.

 

The subframe drop really should be around 4" as that is what the steering extension has been designed for. You might have to find a new solution if you went to other sizes and I doubt Tyler is going to release other block sizes.

 

For the strut spacer blocks, the kit is designed to use 4.5" blocks with stock coils- my 2.5" blocks with AC coils is close to that amount of lift. Stryker did 4.5" plus AC coils and Tyler did 4.5" plus OME coils so I am really the baby of the three testers. I wanted less angle on my CV's as my QX4 all-mode transfer case gives me errors when I unlock my manual hubs.

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Keith just mentioned to me last night that he finally solved the issue with the spring rubbing on that box. I noticed that my OME springs rub on it but it doesn't make any sounds...the only reason I know is it's shiny. He said he cut 3 sides out where it attaches and pressed it back into the wheel well. At least there is a solution for anyone worried about it. :P

 

And, I agree with everyone who says they want pictures.

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Alright, this is the best I can do given the fact its dark when I leave for work and when I come home. I hope to get better pictures and get my new front bumper on if I get a day off this weekend.

 

Front quarter view:

img0607zi5.th.jpg

 

Rear quarter view:

img0608mi0.th.jpg

 

Side view:

img0610yv6.th.jpg

 

Motor mount spacer:

img0611cf5.th.jpg

 

Steering extension (the top piece is the honda U-joint):

img0613dc3.th.jpg

 

Front subframe block:

img0615un7.th.jpg

 

Rear subframe block:

img0616iq8.th.jpg

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I haven't tested it offroad. I put 60 miles on it today in the city and on the highway. Though I topped out my struts in warehouse district potholes at least 20 times without anything bad tonight. I'm going to be working a lot the next 8 weeks so probably little time for serious offroading, but I'll be driving it at least 50 miles each day (this is my daily driver). Stryker will certainly put this thing through its offroad paces shortly.

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