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Need an oil filter relocation kit?


88pathoffroad
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Anybody heard of a Canadian shop selling the single filter relocation kits? summit adds $11 for handling costs + shipping costs+ duty at the border....yikes.

 

you can get them at Lordco. TransDapt #1213 for duel kit. I think my duel cost about $80CDN incl taxes.

I think the single is #1113.

 

the REALLY good news is that the PH8A FORD filter that fits the kits are REALLY Cheap! Like $5!

I just found a WIX distributor here in Vancouver/Burnaby/Coquitlam. The Wix filter is: 51515 just over $5!

Coquitlam Automotive & Can West Automotive in Burnaby carry the Wix.

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thanks alot for the info Al, i'll give them a call.

 

89Pathfinder: the filter is located in an ugly spot right above the starter. So everytime you change your filter it leaks all over your starter and stuff. And believe me, you do not want to have to change starters on these things...its brutal.

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thanks alot for the info Al, i'll give them a call.

 

89Pathfinder: the filter is located in an ugly spot right above the starter. So everytime you change your filter it leaks all over your starter and stuff. And believe me, you do not want to have to change starters on these things...its brutal.

 

 

I got my kit from my local Partsource store. I can't remember how much it was but i'm sure it was less than $100

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Does anyone have a suggestion on where to locate a single filter relocation kit on a 95 auto? I am about to undertake this and am looking for options, as I can not seem to find a good location, yet.

 

Semper Fi

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Does anyone have a suggestion on where to locate a single filter relocation kit on a 95 auto? I am about to undertake this and am looking for options, as I can not seem to find a good location, yet.

 

Semper Fi

mine on mini me. king's will go in the same place (mini-5 spd/ king-auto)

 

OFRKSideView.jpg

 

OFRKmeasurements.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

I'm in the process of installing my pacesetter headers and have discovered the need for the oil filter relocation kit. I've read this topic pretty thoroughly but don't see any description or pictures of how to route the lines safely around the headers. Would greatly appreciate any pics.

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I'm in the process of installing my pacesetter headers and have discovered the need for the oil filter relocation kit. I've read this topic pretty thoroughly but don't see any description or pictures of how to route the lines safely around the headers. Would greatly appreciate any pics.

I ran the hoses foward around the motormount and then back along the framerail to the tranny x-member where my filter is.

doing it this way makes is so the only thing near the headder(i have thorleys)is the adapter that goes into the block.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got my oil filter relocation done, so I thought I throw up some pictures. The kit I used was the Hayden 291 which is available from Summit Racing. I picked this one over the other versions because it had side ports which is what I thought I was going to use. However, it turned out I ended up using the ports on top instead. I had the lines custom made by Amazon Hose and Rubber which is local to Orlando, Tampa, & Chicago. They are Teflon tubing with a stainless braided cover. Expensive, but no worries about heat. If anyone wants more details, post a reply and I can write up the steps/details I went through.

 

P8290297.jpgP8290298.jpgP8290303.jpg

Edited by andreus009
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That just seems like a bad place for it... what if a stick/rock/person gets stuck in yoru tire and puncture the filter?

 

There is quite a bit of clearance and I've never had problems. The filter in that location even survived the front-ender that killed my last Pathy. It's also really easy to get to for oil and filter changes. If you are worried about puncturing the filter you could put a simple sheet metal shield over it. Most of the people I run over are too soft to puncture the filter anyway.

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That just seems like a bad place for it... what if a stick/rock/person gets stuck in yoru tire and puncture the filter?

He is running A/T tires so that is unlikely... :D

 

Seriously though, I said the same when another member placed his there. Perhaps there has been no trouble yet, but to me that is too exposed for comfort... :shrug:

 

B

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I think it is from the concept that oil doesn't break down, it just gets dirty so the more filter, the better. The 2 problems are that the filters only filter down to a certain size and no smaller, so the smaller bits will still be there if you added 100 filters, and that the gas/exhaust blow by change the PH of the oil and it's chenistry some, and the filter has no effect on this.

 

I put in the relocation kit and run the fram PH8A size filter. This one is much larger than the stock filter, and by estimate probably have twice the filtration surface, so it is like I'm running 2 stock filters. This is plenty for me as I run synthetic/dino blend and change it every 3000 miles.

 

Personally, I don't see any need for 2 filters... :shrug:

 

B

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He is running A/T tires so that is unlikely... :D

 

They're 30s too so even less of a chance of picking something up :D Have you ever used the screwdriver-through-the-filter trick to remove a stubborn one? They are not that easy to puncture even with the "proper" tools. Where the hell are you all driving anyway? Sticks can't bust that filter. The only thing that would is barbed or bailing wire, but they will also take a lot more with them. If you hit something that may puncture the filter, you will know and you should get out of the truck to check out WTF just happened. I think that MY1PATH should show us some pictures of where his filter is mounted. That cross-member sounds like a safe and convenient place.

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Yes, I do know they are not easy to puncture, it would be more of a fluke thing although it would be a whole lot easier to damage the line... One of my thoughts was an accident that damaged that area; accidents are bad enough, but when you can't drive off due to oil spraying everywhere, that would really piss me off!!. Yeah these are all slim chance items and I'm probably not being rational, it just makes me nervous.

 

That said, it's your truck, feel free to tell us how long you haven't had any problems... :D

 

I believe JJ_Big_Shoe also has his filter down there, but I can't remember who else right now. I will probably move mine there from under the hood also when I install the headers... :shrug:

 

B

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Question - how easy are these relocation kits to install without a body or suspension lift?

 

Hmm....In theory it is easy. In reality it can be another story. I had my exhaust out because I was upgrading to headers, in fact that is the reason I had to do the oil filter relocation. Doing it with the stock exhaust installed, probably a Royal PITA.

 

My Major challenges:

 

Port Orientation - The oil filter relocation kits are multi-make/model fit so they come with 3 or 4 thread inserts that adapt the thread of the adapter to the thread of your oil filter threaded tube on the engine. The ports on my adapter were offset from center, so depending on how far I threaded the thread insert into the adapter controlled where the ports were located (left, right, top, bottom or somewhere in between) when the seal final touched the block. I wanted my ports at 6 o'clock because this was the farthest from the headers. The problem was that there was no locking mechanism (like a set screw) to keep the thread insert from rotating (i.e, threading deeper into the adapter) while threading the adapter onto the engine. I finally ended up prick punching the threads to keep the thread insert from turning in the adapter itself. Of course, I didn't get it right the first time, nor the second, nor the third. I think it took like at least 4 or 5 tries. Of course now that I had pricked punched the threads, it wasn't possible to rotate the thread insert by hand. In order rotate the thread insert, I used a sharp chisel and hammer to catch the top edge of the thread insert and drive in the direction I wanted to go. After I had rotated the thread insert where I thought I wanted it to be, I would prick punch the threads again. (The idea is to make your prick punch as light/weak as possible to be able to rotate it again if you need to, but still enough that thread insert doesn't turn while threading onto the engine.) Once I got things oriented properly I made the prick punch more solid/deeper. Also, I ground smooth with a dremel the location where I was engaging the chisel to rotate it.

 

Tubing/Hose - The kit I got didn't come with the hoses, but it did come with barbed fittings. I didn't like the idea that the life blood of my engine was in the hands of barbed fittings and hose clamps. (I know other people have done it without any issue, but a racing friend of mine had some bad experience with that kind of arrangement) I chose to go the bullet proof route. I had custom hydraulic lines made using teflon tubing (500F rating) with stainless steel braided cover. I tried to estimate the hose length I would need using the barbed fittings and a couple of pieces of 1/2" heater hose. Seemed good in theory. I took what I thought was my correct length hoses to the Hydraulic hose place, talked it over with the guy for a bit, and then was ready to make the lines. However, they were out of the tubing I wanted which turned out to be a blessing. Since I had time I bought a couple of the fittings I thought I would need, and installed them on the engine block adapter, and the oil filter holder and tested (for length) my heater hose I had cut. Boy was I way way off. I had probably 6" too much hose. Moral of the story: If you are going to do a custom line with fittings, buy the fittings first, install them on your hardware, and THEN use a dummy hose for measuring the correct length. Also, you may want to buy a couple different angles for the end fittings (to find the combination of ones that are the best fit), and for ease of install (especially if it is a stiff hose) swivels on both ends.

 

Knowing what I know now I could probably do it in half or 1/3 of the time. Hope I didn't rattle on too much. :blah:

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  • 7 months later...

Has anyone experienced any leaking with the Summit kit?

 

I haven't had a chance to really get in there and look close, but it's either leaking at the adapter plate to old filter connection OR at one of the hose clamp areas (on adapter plate at the engine end).

 

I installed this almost a year ago and just noticed the leak within the past couple months. The only thing I can think of is I pinched rubber gasket and it's slowly degraded to the point of leaking...

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