Jump to content

Differential Fluid


QuismO
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at the FSM, and i only see a drain bolt for the front diff. does this drain both front and rear? and if i have an LSD, then i have to replace all diff gear with approved LSD gear oil correct?

 

Just double checking before i change some of the fluids tomorrow. first time i've ever done diff oil. so i don't want to screw up :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless Infinity put in some weird piping system, these are different drain and fill.

 

On my Pathy, there is a drain plug on the bottom of the rear diff and a fill plug not quite 1/2 way up, on the rear side.

 

And yes, if the rear diff is LSD, then it would require a different fluid than the front.

 

Hope this helps Qman :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have an LSD, then use LSD gear oil in the rear, and regular (non-LSD) oil in the front. Both the front diff and the rear diff have their own drain and fill plugs. They're pretty easy to see once you're under the truck. Both require a 1/2" drive ratchet. When you're ready to change the fluid, ALWAYS remove the fill plug first. This ensures that you'll be able to refill the diff. It would really suck to drain the fluid, then find out you can't get the fill plug out!

Edited by XPLORx4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey xplor, thanks for the tip on removing the fill plug first!!! never thought about that! i'd be screwed if that happened -thnkboutit-

 

yea i was wondering about the drain plug for the rear. saw a bolt on the back side of the rear diff, but it looked too high to be a drain bolt...i think this is the one that you're talking about trainman. i'll take a look at the bottom once i actually get cracking at it tomorrow.

 

hehe trainman, yea i was thinking that some kind of diff fluid line connecting the front to the rear sounds a little off...plus i didn't see any.

 

FYI, the FSM i was looking at was for a '97 pathy as i'm sure that they're identical.

 

i think i'll change the transfer case fluid as well while i'm under there. any tips on this job? the FSM makes it look pretty straight forward...and i'm hoping it is :shrug:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, the t case goes about the same as the diffs. almost all gear oil has LSD additive in it nowadays.

is LSD gear oil a higher grade than "regular" gear oil? can i use LSD gear oil in the front diff IF the auto parts store only had LSD gear oil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i am using just gear oil.. it says it has lsd additives in it and that it is ok for non lsd. no problem thusfar.. i think my fluids have 15k mi or so

15k eh? i need to read up on the diff fluid intervals. mine have 11k on them right now. I'd rather change them now while it's dry out rather than change them during the rainy fall season. I want my drivetrain in tip-top shape for 4-wheelin in the snow this winter.

 

hell, i might as well do the AT fluid too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hell, i might as well do the AT fluid too.

yeah, i normally do them all at the same time. all of mine now take the same fluid so why not. the only fluids i haven't changed was the MT (it was just done by the PO) and the clutch.. clutch fluid ain't looking all too good so i'll hit that sometime soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI, the t-case may take ATF, not gear oil. Check your owner's manual to be sure.

 

My 97 LE (4x4, automatic tranny) specs 2-3/8 qts of ATF in the t-case. I believe this is because if the oil seal on either the t-case or the tranny fails, you want to have both fluids be the same. Gear oil in an auto tranny is bad.

 

And FYI, on the rear diff, the drain plug is on the bottom right. The plug you saw on the back of the diff is the fill plug. My drain plug has encountered rock scrapage too many times, and the square 1/2" drive hole is shaped like a football now. It's gonna be a real PITA to change that fluid!

Edited by XPLORx4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

man a football shape?! yea that has to be a PITA!! especially since the plug is recessed/flush with the hole.

 

and yea, you guys are right...ATF is used in the transfer case. thanks a bunch!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just picked up my Pathfinder a month of so ago and am very much a newb to trucks in general. I also dont know the last time any of the fluids were changed and with the truck coming up on 90k miles, I figure it would be a good time to change them.

 

What are fluids are recommended for the tranny, diffs, and transfer case?

 

The only brands Im familar with are Redline and Royal Purple.

 

Also, what weight oil do you guys run? (Ill probably be running Mobil One synthetic becuase that is what I use in my other cars.)

 

One last thing, I saw a comercial for this Quaker State "high torque" oil intended for suvs and trucks. I was curious how motor oil could effect the power of the engine.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The attachment shows the fluids recommended in my 1997 owners manual. I'm using Redline gear oil in the diffs, Redline D4 ATF in the tranny, and Amsoil ATF in the t-case.

Edited by XPLORx4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just picked up my Pathfinder a month of so ago and am very much a newb to trucks in general. I also dont know the last time any of the fluids were changed and with the truck coming up on 90k miles, I figure it would be a good time to change them.

congrats on your purchase! yea i think you should change 'em to be sure. intervals are 60k miles according to the manual. also, t-belt would be a good change if you're unsure when that was last changed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

t-belt would be a good change if you're unsure when that was last changed.

2001 Pathys (which he has) have VQ35 engines equipped with timing chains- no change interval.

 

And even if he did have a timing belt, the change interval is 105,000 miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2001 Pathys (which he has) have VQ35 engines equipped with timing chains- no change interval.

 

And even if he did have a timing belt, the change interval is 105,000 miles.

weups...didn't know he had a 2001...that lucky bastard =P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok that pic didnt have the quantities on it. Oh well, Im gonna check my manual when I get home. I should have a free weekend in the next couple of weeks to mess with it.

 

Yeah its a 2001. I really like it so far. I put a new stereo in it because the cd changer was broken and I have always wanted to have a good stereo and thanks to 12 mo no interest financing from Circuit City, now I have it.

 

Its a manual too, which is kinda fun but I still can seem to drive it as smoothly as my other cars. Dont know if my technique or just the nature of the truck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

I ended up putting 140w Limslip diff oil in my rear diff. The LSD is now alot more aggresive and being so muddy on the trails over here at the moment it is awsome.

 

Capacities for the diffs are:

front :4 3/8US pt (2.05 Lts)

Rear: 5 7/8 US pt (2.8 Lts)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

I ended up putting 140w Limslip diff oil in my rear diff. The LSD is now alot more aggresive and being so muddy on the trails over here at the moment it is awsome.

 

Capacities for the diffs are:

front :4 3/8US pt (2.05 Lts)

Rear: 5 7/8 US pt (2.8 Lts)

nicee...i'm such a procrastinator...next weekend =X

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok i know we're straying away from the original topic, but didn't want to start a new thread for a quick question/verification.

 

i read the following from a thread in the wd section:

 

That was my next question.  Since it's fuel injected make sure to de-pressurize the fuel rails (run the truck with the gas cap off, and the fuel pump fuse removed until the truck dies of fuel starvation)

 

i'm going to change my fuel filter while i'm under there and read in the FSM to depressurize the fuel line, but they did it with some electronic device in the FSM.

 

i don't have that device, so i'm wondering if gotrek's above technique will work just as effectively?

Edited by QuismO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sure will :aok:

 

Get extra fuel line before you attempt...I don't know if anyone has a great way of detaching that line from the filter, but mine was well stuck on and I had to lose a little of my line and replace a section. You may also want to take some zip ties down there also as my bracket was rusted and snapped off imediately when I tride to un-bolt the bracing that holds up the filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...