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Found 6 results

  1. TL;DR at bottom before pic. Hey all, Been lurking here for a couple months reading up on guides and how-to's and looking at mods other people have done. Now it's my turn to post. My buddy's dad bought this 02 back in 2004 and drove the hell out of it. Mid-2018 he started having transmission problems. With 287k on it, he opted to just park it and he bought a new 4Runner. Well finally talked with him about it and I told him I'd buy it off of him. And that was that. Wouldn't stay running due to the idle air control valve, so replaced that and then test drove it hard and had no issues with the transmission. I didn't want to throw a transmission at it without confirming that's what it was. So I started doing other things to it. I bought some old 4Runner wheels with tires off craigslist for a few hundred dollars, great deal especially since the guy said the PO had just installed them before selling the 4Runner, and then the current owner put some aftermarket wheels and mud tires on, so I came out with tires with only 700 miles on them and date code is end of 2018. I installed some Warn hubs, a new alternator (bearing had started making a ton of noise and I screwed up reassembling the old alternator with the new bearings), new idler pulley, replaced the oil cooler o-ring and the rack boot on that side that the oil had deteriorated. Got some AC lift springs with Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks and KYB 335032/335033 front struts and new strut bushings, also replaced the rear upper trailing arm bushings, they were absolutely wrecked haha. Also replaced all fluids in the truck except brake fluid (will probably do that next oil change). So after all of that and the looming question of "when the hell is this transmission going to fail" and driving 200 miles with no issues it finally bit the dust on me at 70 MPH cruising on the freeway heading home from my parents place after watching the Seahawks lose the divisional game. Felt like it dropped 4th gear and went into 3rd, was at 3500-4000 RPM. I needed gas anyway so I filled her up, started driving again and couldn't do much but crawl. Then it clunked and shifted fine a couple times. Luckily I was a couple miles from my work (I work at a car dealership as a technician). Unfortunately I didn't make it, after getting stopped at a light, it wouldn't shift out of first anymore and the metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath me was enough to convince me to call for a tow. AAA got there and towed it to my work. I ordered up a transmission from a wrecking yard with 87k on it and bought the 1 year warranty on it. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here. TL;DR->> So here are my questions, I am already planning on replacing the internal filter on the 'new' transmission (I know its just a metal screen and doesn't do much but I'm planning on looking in the pan anyway), I am also planning on installing an aftermarket tranny cooler to bypass the factory one in the radiator (Hayden 678 if anyone is wondering). I was thinking if I should do the rear main seal as well, even though it looks like you are supposed to remove the oil pan, are you able to just add liquid gasket to the bottom of the seal retainer and call it good, or is it an actual fitment issue that is blocking you from replacing the RMS without dropping the pan? Also when I did my ATF change I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Do you guys recommend that or should I do a different fluid with the new transmission? Anything else you guys recommend I rock out when doing the transmission? Thanks! Jack
  2. My daughter's pathfinder would not shift into second gear until the engine was completely warmed up. I had no OBD II codes. I searched the Internet for an easy solution. I read that It's "OK" when it's cold outside for a transmission to take up to 3 miles or 3 minutes to shift into second gear . They give several BS reasons why, and then state it's "normal". BS! If it takes 30 seconds to minute to shift into second, there is a problem! I believed the crap about hardened seal's, etc. I put in trans max, Lucas, etc, they didn't work. As recommended by the internet pro's...I replaced the solenoid pack As recommended by internet pro's, even without a OBDII code That was my issue, I had no codes...it didn't work. I replaced the O'rings on the shift accumulator pistons, As recommended by SEVERAL internet pro's. it didn't fix my problem. Today, I took a entire valve body from a 04 Xterra 2WD transmission from Pick N Pull, ($50.00) installed in the 1998 pathfinder transmission, and the Transmission shift's like new again. SOO, if your RE4R01A Transmission has an issue, the gut's from my 98 to an 04 are "nearly" the same. By that I mean the Valve Body with solenoid's. A TRICK HERE: When you drop the valve body, 3 springs will fall out that are located between the transmission case and the valve body on the driver's side of the transmission They are shift piston/accumulator springs. NO PROBLEM! Look up on the internet for the drawing of which bolts need to be removed. There are two different length's of bolts, make sure each bolt goes into it's proper hole.. When re-installing the valve body, just barely start a bolt on the passenger side of the valve body. This will allow the drivers side of the valve body to hang down several inches. This allows you to install the springs, then lift the valve body up to the transmission and install the rest of the fasteners. I wish I could have found that information on the internet.! I was quoted $2900.00 to repair this transmission from a independent transmission repair shop, NOT including a defective valve body! I was told that would be extra. Yep, "PRICES's" transmission shop in Virginia Beach, VA quoted me that last week.
  3. Reverse will engage when fluid is cold, but once it's warm I have no reverse. I'm going to do a pan drop and change the transmission fluid and replace the filter. Then have a transmission shop look to see if it might be something like a solenoid. But if it's something major, I could easily continue to drive it around town without reverse. I've done it for a few weeks and haven't had a problem. Has anyone driven their vehicle for a significant length of time without reverse gear? If the reverse can't be fixed, I'm wondering if I can just drive it until the forward gears start to fail. The forward gears are still shifting like new. I am only driving it 3k-5k miles a year as it's our "extra" vehicle. Has 255k miles but is still in excellent condition.
  4. I've got a '03 LE RWD and for a while now it's been having a problem that's been causing the car to severely lacking power (accelerating at less than 1/4 of normal speed even with pedal to the floor) and to also "grab" or "jerk" when decelerating as if it is having trouble downshifting, it is a hard symptom to describe but it isn't a prolonged or aggressive "jerk" but it will happen at any speed so long as you are not on the gas pedal, all of these problems occurred at the same time which is why I believe they both have the same cause. I went ahead and scanned it to see if that would give me an answer as it does not seem particularly like mechanical failure, however the only code I could pull (which isn't really a helpful one) was a "U1001(Invalid or Missing Data for Primary ID)" Which I'm guessing means that for some reason the car can't communicate with the OBDII scanner or that there is a miscommunication/misconnection within the CANBUS itself. I am completely stumped here as I have yet to come across (online or IRL) across another Pathy with the same problem (probably also because it is such a rare symptom to describe without driving the car for yourself. I'll also mention that a friend of kine suggested that it could be a torque converter issue which I doubt simply because i've never been in a car with a malfunctioning torque converter that behaved that way, and because a torque converter shouldn't cause that drastic of a power loss but hey I could be wrong, another note is that the car has been babied it's entire life(150k mi) and maintained relatively well. If anyone could help me out and point me in the right direction and any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hello everyone! I have an '87 4x4 XE-V6 Pathfinder, and the automatic transmission is going bad. I am looking to either get it rebuilt or swap it out. My questions are; Would it be easier/better to have it rebuilt or to replace it? If I replace it, would it be better to have automatic or manual? I'm aware that I can replace it with one from a newer year, is there a specific year that works best in the 87? Without having to replace the engine as well? Can I replace it with one from an Xterra, and if so, what years/auto/manual would be best? I mainly use it for overlanding/offroading, and I will have to drive it on the freeway to get it there. I've done a lot of work to it so far, so I'm trying to find the best option that's not gonna break the bank! Thank you for helping me out!
  6. It's there anyway to save the reverse? Ie change fluid, coolers? Or am I stuck with getting new tranny? I just did a vg30e cam swap along with timing pump, knock sensor head gasket. So don't want to get rid of vehicle.
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