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magregor

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Everything posted by magregor

  1. What happened was I had put new seals in that side and when I put the bearing in, I should have either taken the other side apart to get an idea on how much play should be in the bearing, or look at the manual...So, I tapped the bearing in, locked it down, but didn't leave any end-play and it only took about 30 km and it sounded like my hold down pins in my brakes let go at first...the truck dragged to a stop...At that time, it was still in one piece. I turned the truck around after i figured things cooled down enough, as I was only 3 km from home...well, the next thing I saw was my wheel creeping out! there was nothing left of the bearing or the hub! The backing plate was still intact, but the bearing got chewed so bad, it let the axle pass through the hub, thus letting the axle pull out. I added one more pic on my link above.
  2. I replaced axle bearing and both seals...everything seemed to be working fine until...well, i almost saw my wheel/axle roll past me. Hope not to experience that again!!!
  3. I did mine by myself...well, Adamzan helped me drop it on the frame...literally :-). Had some issues lining up rear bolts, but the body was 3' off frame for 4 months while I rebuilt frame, etc. No issues with steering...I just loosened both top nd bottom splines and split the difference between the 2.
  4. Wow...I never thought I would get this Pathy on its wheels again! First time it has been running since Nov, '08 and it took off after 3 revolutions on the starter!!! Lift kit is in and almost all the body work is finished. I even vacuumed out the interior! :-) Adamzan came down and helped me lower the body (not a gentle project) onto the frame after 4 months of sitting 3 ft. on stilts! Let's just say there was some scary moments when the body decided to drop about 6" before it came to a halt on some makeshift blocks! Just some fab work on tube bumpers and a few little things and it is off to the inspection station to see if it will see a summer of playin' in the trails! Thanks Adamzan, Steph and other members of the forum for all the help and extra parts! A few pics... http://s666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/magregor/
  5. Ummmmm...No comment on that one...coming from someone who has a wife that everytime she hears a noise or a light comes on in the dash...she adds oil! twice I have drained a gallon of "extra" oil from her car because the idiot light came on...
  6. Oh...I didn't know he was talking about an R50...
  7. magregor

    axle seal

    I will put a piece of 2X4 between the axle and my vicious strikes and pray I don't damage the splines :-)
  8. magregor

    axle seal

    Picked up the seal today...17 bucks at NAPA...I have the axle out and there was no problems. I haven't changed the seal yet, but I want to take time and clean up the surfaces really well so the shim/gasket doesn't leak after all that work of taking it apart. NOW...stupid question...I see a rubber seal in the axle housing, but there must be one on the outside to seal the bearings...I figured the one I need to change is on the outside of the bearing and not the one in the axle tube...I set the axle upright (studs facing down) on a couple of blocks, took the locking washer/retainer nut off the axle and took a dead blow hammer to try and pound the bearing race out of the axle...not moving very nice! Is this the right way to go about getting the axle off the bearing race??
  9. I think most of the guys here would suggest coils from a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the V8...They would add decent lift and just crank up the torsion bars in the front and you're good to go. Just watch the front Ball Joints due to the change in angle on the front upper control arms if you crank the torsion bars up too much. Correct me if I'm wrong guys
  10. After 4 kids, she is...well ya know... :)Need I get into detail...
  11. magregor

    axle seal

    Sweet, Thanks Precise1 I will head to the stealer tomorrow and grab one while I'm out getting sheet metal to fix the cancer in the floor...
  12. magregor

    axle seal

    90% of the work is already done...Rear end is out and sitting on the spare tire and ready to pull the axle
  13. magregor

    axle seal

    I think Adamzan offered to help beat up some knuckles this weekend, so I will post how it goes after the fact
  14. It means she wouldn't have to put out!
  15. magregor

    axle seal

    thanks...I did a search after I posted as well and...yup...30 seconds
  16. I also found at Jegs that you can get the lifting blocks individually for $7.99...So if you get just the blocks and buy the bolts at the hardware store, it may be just as cheap...I guess if you have a welder and can fab the brackets and such. I even checked out a business online that would turn some lift blocks out of Nylon or Neoprene on a lathe possibly even cheaper than the individual ones at Jegs and it is local. Still poking around, as I have to keep this project "under the wife's radar"
  17. magregor

    axle seal

    Umm, what is the going price for an axle seal? Any idea?
  18. Hey no worries, I guess I never posted that I was rebuilding the frame
  19. I had to hack the floor to get the bolts out as I had to lift the body off the frame about 2 ft. to rebuild it...I had to cut the bolts as they were rusted so bad...
  20. Then really it doesn't matter if I am going to drill out the rear bolts and use SAE bolts anyways...especially to save about 50 bucks
  21. Found another for '86-'90 at JC Whitney for $130...Can someone tell me what the difference would be and would they work...per say?
  22. Would there be much difference between the kits? I am sure the number of blocks and length of bolts, etc would be the same wouldn't they? I don't know, so I guess that would be a question...
  23. I was poking around the net and found a 3" lift kit from Jegs for $88 bucks!! only thing description says is that the bumper brackets are included... Just thought I would let everyone know who didn't! http://www.jegs.com/i/Performance+Accessor...4/4053/10002/-1
  24. if you drill them and tap fittings in, use a decent center punch to mark before you drill and put a dob of grease on the area where you are drilling so you won't lose any filings in the new ball joint/tie rod. The grease will catch the filings and also reduce the heat from friction of drilling. Spray some WD40 in the hole (holding the part upside down so any filings run out) after you drill and it should help blow some of the access filings out of the hole. There are grease fittings that you can get that don't have threads on them (just tap them on with a socket that will fit over the nipple).
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