k9sar
-
Posts
9,906 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
15
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by k9sar
-
-
screw the white marks and use the cam dimples, dimples on the rear cover, marks on the crank gear and on the surrounding metal (I think that one is at 5 o'clock). Count your teeth and yes, follow that thread. Good luck
-
2
-
-
You have come to the right place. My expertise is the WD21's and now getting into the R51 so I can't be much help but there are plenty of smart folks in here with R50s. Good luck.
-
I second the trail spare idea. I left part of my CV in a mudhole one time and needed a pull up the hill since my 4WD was then shot
-
Paid for a shop to install new shocks and struts back in March because it was too damned cold for me to work on it outside and I knew there would be issues with the install and it would not be a simple bolt-in replacement (I was right. rusty bolts and upper end replacement needed). Since then I've had clunking when going over bumps. Didn't think much of it since the truck is relatively new to me and maybe it was always clunky and I just didn't hear it over the radio. Anyway, now I'm wondering if they were ever seated properly or if something was left loose. Any suggestions as to where I should start looking (after I fix my riding mower and finish my paver steps and landing)?
-
used it to drag my riding mower uphill from the backyard shed so I can rebuild the engine in my garage
-
Sorry to hear about Mike's passing. He was with us from the beginning and always a great source of knowledge.
-
Ok I'm trying to lift my pathfinder and I'm ganna use the jeep springs and reindex my t bars do I need to get different shocks and do I need to do anything with the sway bar links.
When I did mine, the rear adjustable shocks no longer were happy. I never really used the SPORT/COMFORT settings anyway. I would suggest new shocks that add a few inches of travel compared to stock. I put Monroe shocks on my old 95 but I have seen other people using Rancho shocks
-
I used to keep a couple of large clear recycling bags (drum sized) tucked away. Multi-use.... can be for trash, can be used as seat covers when you have to dig yourself out of a mudhole and don't want to get your interior muddy, can be used to keep gear our of rain, can be used as a tent (if you are creative) or to just keep rain off, can be used to wrap a body in, ... lots of uses and they take almost no space.
-
2
-
-
Greetings!
-
Welcome!
-
consider adding a spare battery cable with clamps on both ends, a set of jumper cables and a package of lightweight welding rods.
-
Next time it doesn't crank, test the voltage on the battery posts (will probably read 12), then check the voltage on the battery clamps. may read less. A bad connection to the battery will certainly cause intermittent no-start. If you want to test your battery directly, hookup your multi-meter directly to the posts and crank. If the draw down is to 9 volts or less, you have a bad battery. If not, I would clean and reconnect your cables as step 1.
-
2
-
-
... . I'm sure that loser will always be in and out of jail. Moron....
Perhaps that should be complimented with "in and out of the hospital" too. I'd freakin wait till he was out then grab a few buddies and beat the hell outta him... repeatedly
-
used it to carpool with my son on his first day of his internship at my company
-
1
-
-
The only thing I use champion plugs for is to break into pieces so I have a piece of ceramic to throw through the window of any A-hole who leaves their dog locked in a hot car.
-
The truck. makes it easy to refer to since we also have 'The car', 'The van' and 'The bike'
-
1
-
-
took my son out for driving lessons
-
Head gaskets are relatively easy to replace. While in there, go ahead and replace valve seals, etc. I picked up a full top-end gasket and seal kit for fairly cheap. Didn't use everything but it was good to have those gaskets that get damaged when pulling the top off the engine.
-
Parked it where my 95 used to sit.
-
You can also use your timing belt to hold the cam sprockets. I have done this with other vehicles but you keep the timing belt on one of the sprockets and drop the loop down far enough to slip a 2x4 or something through it below the frame. Clamp the belt together with a pair of vice-grips or a C-clamp as close to the sprocket as you can. Then, step on the 2x4 to hold tension on the belt while loosening (I suppose you could tighten this way too) the bolt.
-
also, if the cams are scored from the old seals and are leaking out from behind the sprockets, there are sleeves that can be purchased that will fit over the cams and give a new surface for the seals to .. well ... seal. Not hard to install. If you are concerned about the valves possibly hitting the pistons, you can always remove the rocker arms and relieve the tension on ALL the valves so they are out of the way. I don't think it will be necessary but the option is there.
-
Set the engine at TDC before taking the timing belt off. This will make it easier to put back on. Once you take the timing belt off, don't crank your cam. If any of the valves are open, the piston could impact and bend your valve stems. These are interference engines. As far as alignment when putting things back together, many belts have lines on them indicating the proper spacing between the cams and crank. I forget the exact count but they are on the site somewhere. Don't worry about the cams rotating a little.... just don't crank them completely around or force them if there is resistance. The holes in the cam pulleys are great for placing a brace of some kind to allow you to break the bolt loose. Be creative... I saw someone use a big pair of needlenose pliers stuck in 2 opposite holes and then a big adjustable wrench on the pliers to hold it all from rotating. I personally just used a big screwdriver and found a place to wedge it against the back cover.
-
I don't have a r51, but from other vehicles, I would say this is normal. My Titan will stay at high idle for a few minutes on cold start.
The oil pressure is normal. The oil pump is engine driven, so it changes based on RPM. As far as not seeing it on other vehicles, not all vehicles give true readings on the gauge. A F150 I had the oil pressure gauge was either in normal or not, kind of a pass fail. If pressure was above a certain psi, it read normal. The sending unit was a pressure switch.
For the idle issue, I would understand if it were a high idle to warm the engine when cold but this is only a few seconds (no more than 10). Maybe it is to get the oil pressure up. dunno. Definitely different than any vehicle I have owned.
For the oil pressure... I don't recall ever seeing it fluctuate that dramatically. Never goes low enough to be 'bad' but the range seems to be much more than I am used to. Again, could just be the nature of the sensor.
Neither issue has me worried that there is a problem. Still learning the truck.
-
I mounted my offroad flag using those holes on the flat pieces.
-
1
-
VQ40DE engine noise. Ideas?
in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders
Posted
This just started last night. Using a stethoscope, the noise is audible on the valve covers but is very loud on the bracket in the middle of the view. I don't know enough about these engines yet and would like some ideas before tearing into it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5rmMPOUFss